Yes.. your YZ450 can make a great woods bike


21 replies to this topic
  • Jess Choat

Posted May 07, 2016 - 06:20 PM

#1

I have scoured the internet looking for as much info as possible to get my YZ450 EFI to handle properly. I am finally close. I will list every modification starting with the most important first, ending with the least important

 

1)  Rekluse clutch... best mod, I can lock it up sliding into a corner without my hand on the clutch, no engine stalling. I can climb up anything anybody else can, without my hand on the clutch, as slow as I want. This mod alone eliminates the need for larger sprocket and electric engine start, (if there was such a mod)

2)  Remapped for woods riding, lots of low end, very important

3)  Get your suspension set up right, really really makes a huge difference.

4)  Flywheel weight, noticeable with the remapping

5)  Steering stabilizer... I once had the pin fall out and thought I had a flat tire. Really helps with the arm pump, you don't have to grip as hard

6)  Keep sharp tires on, I use michelin S12 XC. The front tire knobs are turned 45 degrees on the extreme edge so they don't fold over and break like so many others. The rear are as good as any other I suppose, its seems the knobs stay square longer and I can climb sloppy clay when they are new  

6)  Engine relocation bushings... just put them on and they are coming right back off. Maybe I need to redo my suspension after this mod, I don't know but I went down three times yesterday, once hard over the bars, I don't like them.

 

 

I'm older so its important for me to have the best I can so I can keep up with my sons. They are both faster than me but not by much. I dread the day that they won't want to ride with me cause I'll be too slow.

I've seen a lot of posts saying, "get rid of your motocrosser and get a woods bike". Well, I like my bike better than a WR. Its lighter, has more power and the only spendy modification is the rekluse clutch. I think I have less than a $1000 to make it a real woods bike, Its around $10,000 for a new KTM

 

 The two things I will always have on any bike in the future will be the rekluse clutch and the scotts steering stabilizer



  • Bitteeinbit

Posted May 07, 2016 - 07:35 PM

#2

Ever try Flexx bars? I heard lots of guys like them (especially older guys who can't handle arm pump well anymore).

  • Bitteeinbit

Posted May 07, 2016 - 09:27 PM

#3

Oh, and which Rekluse did you get? Aren't there like 3 models to choose from?

  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 08:43 AM

#4

Ever try Flexx bars? I heard lots of guys like them (especially older guys who can't handle arm pump well anymore).

 

Flex bars... I'll look into that

I got just the part that replaces a few of the disks, fits into my stock basket. I am soooo  impressed with it

EXP 3.0     part number RMS-6076


Edited by Jess Choat, May 08, 2016 - 08:51 AM.


  • shrubitup

Posted May 08, 2016 - 09:01 AM

#5

Flex bars... I'll look into that

I got just the part that replaces a few of the disks, fits into my stock basket. I am soooo  impressed with it

EXP 3.0     part number RMS-6076

Did you go through their recommended break in technique? I just popped one of these in my RM so wondering how strict the adherence is required. :worthy:



  • GHILL28

Posted May 08, 2016 - 09:05 AM

#6

I would recommend NOT running just the EXP in the YZ450F.  The bike puts out a ton of power, and has a smaller than normal oil volume.  Removing a bunch of frictions will burn up the remaining frictions quickly in this bike, trust me.  Just pony up for the upgrade kit from Rekluse for the full CORE system.  You'll notice the slipping pretty quick I think.



  • Summit

Posted May 08, 2016 - 10:00 AM

#7

If they just had elec. start I'd be all over one.

  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:36 PM

#8

If they just had elec. start I'd be all over one.

 

You don't need an electric start with the rekluse because you never stall... I can't say enough about how much faster I am with it... so worth the money



  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:37 PM

#9

I would recommend NOT running just the EXP in the YZ450F.  The bike puts out a ton of power, and has a smaller than normal oil volume.  Removing a bunch of frictions will burn up the remaining frictions quickly in this bike, trust me.  Just pony up for the upgrade kit from Rekluse for the full CORE system.  You'll notice the slipping pretty quick I think.

Actually I have heard that too, if thats the case I will be buying the whole maryann, I won't have a bike without it



  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:41 PM

#10

Did you go through their recommended break in technique? I just popped one of these in my RM so wondering how strict the adherence is required. :worthy:

I installed per instruction... so far so good... ghill says they won't last... he may be right, I had to remove 3 friction plates and 2 metal ones... thats not a lot of clutch left to hold that engine



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  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:42 PM

#11

Ever try Flexx bars? I heard lots of guys like them (especially older guys who can't handle arm pump well anymore).

The steering stabilizer helps a lot, however I am curious about the flex bars



  • Jess Choat

Posted May 08, 2016 - 06:45 PM

#12

I just pulled the light speed engine relocation bushings back off and my dream woods bike is back in business... what a waste of time and money



  • Bitteeinbit

Posted May 08, 2016 - 10:48 PM

#13

I've been eyeing a Rekluse 3.0 myself. The cost is about right, I just can't bring myself yet as I think it would affect the fun (and yeah, the whole "cheating" aspect haunts me). I don't see how it would burn out the clutch unless you're climbing hills meant for 2nd in 3rd or 4th and all that. I suppose one would tend to so that a bit more with a Rekluse (the whole "it promotes lazy riding aspect), but if you're conscious about what you're doing it should be a problem.

Worst comes to worse, wouldn't any damage be to the plates? New plates are fairly cheap...

  • GHILL28

Posted May 08, 2016 - 11:01 PM

#14

The lower end Rekluse requires you remove 3 plates to fit in the mechanism.  The higher end one includes new inner hub, pressure plate, and clutch cover to use all the original plates plus the mechanism.



  • Jess Choat

Posted May 09, 2016 - 05:55 AM

#15

I've been eyeing a Rekluse 3.0 myself. The cost is about right, I just can't bring myself yet as I think it would affect the fun (and yeah, the whole "cheating" aspect haunts me). I don't see how it would burn out the clutch unless you're climbing hills meant for 2nd in 3rd or 4th and all that. I suppose one would tend to so that a bit more with a Rekluse (the whole "it promotes lazy riding aspect), but if you're conscious about what you're doing it should be a problem.

Worst comes to worse, wouldn't any damage be to the plates? New plates are fairly cheap...

 

I see you're a man of integrity, (cheating). Back in the late 70's Husqvarna made an auto transmission, not sure why it wasn't more successful. There wasn't anything mentioned at the time of it being unfair in the races. My point of view is that I want to focus on just going fast, not losing my grip fooling with levers, and it works, I can keep up with my sons, (barely). Now if I can just figure out a way to keep my first two fingers off the front brake....



  • Agazza

Posted May 09, 2016 - 11:48 AM

#16

Put a handbrake for the back brake where your clutch handle used to be.

But if I had to start from scratch I would yz mod a wr instead, then do all this other stuff.

  • GHILL28

Posted May 09, 2016 - 11:49 AM

#17

I have a LHRB system that includes the cable clutch over-ride if anyone is interested in it.  I think it needs a new MC piston assembly from Magura.



  • Jess Choat

Posted May 11, 2016 - 07:29 PM

#18

I have a LHRB system that includes the cable clutch over-ride if anyone is interested in it.  I think it needs a new MC piston assembly from Magura.

 

 

Put a handbrake for the back brake where your clutch handle used to be.

But if I had to start from scratch I would yz mod a wr instead, then do all this other stuff.

Why would you start with a WR?  Just wondering...



  • Agazza

Posted May 12, 2016 - 07:53 AM

#19

Why would you start with a WR? Just wondering...


Electric start, other Gear ratio, and with a YZ exhaust and exhaustcam it will put out the same power.

And electrical system that handled lights and heated grips.

  • elroy121

Posted May 12, 2016 - 10:29 AM

#20

or you could put the WR transmission, or just the WR 1-2 , in the YZ motor






 
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