100 hrs on 2014 yz450f, shim valves or replace them?

Yamaha YZ450F 2014

79 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:16 AM

#41

That's what I just said,

 

 

 

Oh?  I don't see anywhere where anyone but myself pointed that error out. 



  • GHILL28

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:18 AM

#42

I'm confused.



  • grayracer513

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:38 AM

#43

Oops.  Nope, it's me.  You're fine.

 

Not used to seeing them in English units and totally misread them.  Automatic metric converter malfunction.  Busy morning. 

 

Speaking of which, TTR, why are you converting mm to inches online?  The factor is 25.4



  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:41 AM

#44

Those are the specs for the old 5 valve engine. for the '14, they are:




Intake: 0.13–0.20 mm (0.0051–0.0079 in)
Exhaust: 0.20–0.25 mm (0.0079–0.0098 in)


What is your opinion on it? Would you shim the intakes? I think I should since it's just out or on the fence of being out of spec. Just as well do it now while I'm doing the cam chain and rings

  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:42 AM

#45

Oops. Nope, it's me. You're fine.

Not used to seeing them in English units and totally misread them. Automatic metric converter malfunction. Busy morning.

Speaking of which, TTR, why are you converting mm to inches online? The factor is 25.4


That's true, I was just being lazy I guess haha.

  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 04, 2016 - 10:57 AM

#46

That's what I just said, with .0001"-.0002" of rounding, since tenth's aren't measurable with feeler gauges anyway....


I would leave it. Maybe check them every 20h and adjust once it's actually OUT of the range.


But really it is just out of spec. 0.005 fit perfect which is 0.127, just below 0.13. I think I am going to do it. Just as well since already apart.

  • GHILL28

Posted May 04, 2016 - 11:01 AM

#47

Ideally you want these valves to be in the tightest 25% of their range to avoid lash.  The next size spacer will put you WAY outside of that.  You probably just need to sand and polish the existing spacers.



  • toten

Posted May 04, 2016 - 12:51 PM

#48

I've always been told that shims are hardened in a way that means you shouldn't try to slim them down at all. 

 

If the range is 5-8 and you measure 5, I wouldn't adjust it, especially on intake.



  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 04, 2016 - 01:55 PM

#49

Hmm, I didn't know that. So being out 0.003 mm isn't anything to worry about?

  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 04, 2016 - 03:36 PM

#50

Ideally you want these valves to be in the tightest 25% of their range to avoid lash. The next size spacer will put you WAY outside of that. You probably just need to sand and polish the existing spacers.


Meant to quote your post wth what I said. 0.003mm is nothing to worry about being out of spec?

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  • Sheriff245

Posted May 04, 2016 - 05:17 PM

#51

That's 3/1000 of a millimeter or 1/10,000 of an inch. I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't touch them just yet. Check them again in 30 hours and see if they got any tighter.

  • GHILL28

Posted May 04, 2016 - 07:08 PM

#52

3 microns?  No.  I guarantee your feeler gauges are not accurate to 3 microns.

 

If you can pass a .005" feeler gauge through there without it grabbing and holding the gauge tight, you're fine.



  • grayracer513

Posted May 05, 2016 - 06:35 AM

#53

3 microns?  No.  I guarantee your feeler gauges are not accurate to 3 microns.

 

If you can pass a .005" feeler gauge through there without it grabbing and holding the gauge tight, you're fine.

 

Furthermore, the operator of the feeler gauge, whoever he might be, is not capable of measuring +/- 3 microns with a feeler.  The "feel" element makes the whole process subjective, and therefore suspect.

 

I have to disagree with the second sentence here, reason being that the valve springs on the engine are light enough that you can lift the valve very slightly off its seat by ramming a feeler under it, which immediately makes the "reading" inaccurate.  The correct amount of drag on the gauge is the key, and it should be about the same as you get by setting a 17mm box end wrench on a feeler gauge on a flat surface and pulling the gauge out from under it. 



  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 05, 2016 - 02:05 PM

#54

Alright thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it. I'm gonna hold off shimming for a little while and I'll check them again in 15-20hrs. I will let you guys know how it goes with the rest of the stuff. And if I have any trouble I'll be sure to post here haha

  • GHILL28

Posted May 05, 2016 - 02:16 PM

#55

If you are having trouble starting, there are a few other things to check as well that I think I mentioned earlier.

 

Fuel filter, fuel injector, MAP/MAF sensor or whatever it is just under the air filter, and I think a throttle position sensor in the throttle body.

 

At 100hrs+ you're probably due for some cleaning of all of those things I'd imagine.  I'm at 55h on mine and I should do those soon as it doesn't have the same hot starting abilities that it used to - but the valves are in perfect shape.



  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 05, 2016 - 03:18 PM

#56

If you are having trouble starting, there are a few other things to check as well that I think I mentioned earlier.

Fuel filter, fuel injector, MAP/MAF sensor or whatever it is just under the air filter, and I think a throttle position sensor in the throttle body.

At 100hrs+ you're probably due for some cleaning of all of those things I'd imagine. I'm at 55h on mine and I should do those soon as it doesn't have the same hot starting abilities that it used to - but the valves are in perfect shape.


Alright. I will definitely check those things. I checked in the manual how to clean fuel filter but couldn't find anything? Where is it?

  • grayracer513

Posted May 05, 2016 - 07:38 PM

#57

You had to ask that question...

 

The fuel filter is built into the pump assembly and is technically not serviceable:

 

http://www.thumperta.../#entry10702600



  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 06, 2016 - 05:14 AM

#58

You had to ask that question...

The fuel filter is built into the pump assembly and is technically not serviceable:

http://www.thumperta.../#entry10702600


Yeaaaa.... Perhaps I'll just leave that alone haha.

  • ttr230rider6

Posted May 06, 2016 - 05:56 PM

#59

If you have the cams off, it's 4 more bolts and a circlip...


Going back to this statement, I have my head ready to be takin off. But don't I need to remove the cylinder as well to access the piston? I didn't realize this and only ordered a head gasket and not a base gasket....

  • GHILL28

Posted May 06, 2016 - 05:58 PM

#60

Going back to this statement, I have my head ready to be takin off. But don't I need to remove the cylinder as well to access the piston? I didn't realize this and only ordered a head gasket and not a base gasket....

 

Yes...







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