Whats up with the WR engine?


14 replies to this topic
  • ill_caper

Posted March 10, 2004 - 12:32 PM

#1

I know Im kind of a slacker for this but I was shocked. I finally brought my bike on for a valve adjustment at 1126 miles :D. The vales were in spec. Thats seems unbelievable to me. Are these engines that good? I know the thing rips rediculously but the valves dont even go out of adjustment after 1100+ miles that seems crazy. Not that Im complaining, I was just surprised. Also, for anyone that has done the crankcase breather tube rerouting. What size brass fitting to you use to plug it into the airbox? Do oyu need to take the airbox out? What are the steps for anyone with the time to type it out. Thanks alot :), cant wait to ride. -D :D :D

  • beezer

Posted March 10, 2004 - 12:35 PM

#2

The YZ's I have had never went out of spec.

I change oil after every ride.

It gives me an excuse to drink beer.

  • DOGBITE

Posted March 10, 2004 - 01:17 PM

#3

That's pretty impressive. :)

  • r1superstar

Posted March 10, 2004 - 01:59 PM

#4

I know Im kind of a slacker for this but I was shocked. I finally brought my bike on for a valve adjustment at 1126 miles :D. The vales were in spec. Thats seems unbelievable to me. Are these engines that good? I know the thing rips rediculously but the valves dont even go out of adjustment after 1100+ miles that seems crazy. Not that Im complaining, I was just surprised. Also, for anyone that has done the crankcase breather tube rerouting. What size brass fitting to you use to plug it into the airbox? Do oyu need to take the airbox out? What are the steps for anyone with the time to type it out. Thanks alot :), cant wait to ride. -D :D :D


I did my check with 1000 miles on her. All good inside!! Remember that Yamaha and others make Sportbikes that don't need a valve inspection until 23,000 miles.

  • Lowedog

Posted March 10, 2004 - 04:42 PM

#5

I just checked valve clearance again on my 450 tonight at 2000 miles. Still in spec! :)

Check out offroad.com's WR 450F project for the breather tube re-route. I believe I used a fitting for a half inch i.d. tube.

:cheers:Lowedog

  • Frostbite

Posted March 10, 2004 - 04:47 PM

#6

The WR has a shim and bucket setup, not the old tappet type of adjuster. The cam lobe strikes the hardened bucket that sits on top of the valve so not only is there a much bigger contact area, but the rocker assembly is eliminated. The old rocker assemblies had the cam lobe striking a small surface on the rocker, and the other end of the rocker that hit the valve was about the size of a marker tip. The small contact surfaces would wear faster and there was 2 contact points wearing at the same time. Street bikes have been running this for a while.

  • ill_caper

Posted March 10, 2004 - 05:08 PM

#7

Cool...thanks for the info....It sounds like a much better suetup to me...Its weird though, my friends drz400 has the shim setup and hes had his valves be out of spec a bunch of times. Whats the deal with that?

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  • Indy_WR450

Posted March 10, 2004 - 05:30 PM

#8

Yamaha Qualty! :D The best motor in he business! :D I got over 3000 miles before I had to do mine. :)

  • RichBaker

Posted March 10, 2004 - 06:47 PM

#9

Shim/bucket valve trains are notorious for staying in spec....unlike adjustable rockers which have to be adjusted every time you check them. Just keep them on the loose side and it's a once a year(or less) job. :)

  • PBDBLUE

Posted March 10, 2004 - 07:58 PM

#10

Shim/bucket valve trains are notorious for staying in spec....


Unless it's a CRF...

  • crushedreams

Posted March 10, 2004 - 08:25 PM

#11

I just did a valve adjustment on mine today. The only reason I had to adjust was due to the new YZ cam. Its been pretty nice here in CO for the past week so I thought Id break her out and take it for a spin... Damn I miss riding.

  • sjw

Posted March 11, 2004 - 04:00 AM

#12

I didnt use a fitting,I just made a tight fit with a drill and a small file, works great!(breather hose)

  • Mike_Hudson

Posted March 11, 2004 - 04:20 AM

#13

Regarding the breather hose...I drilled the hole with the box on the bike. Results could have been better. Two problems..I couldn't get the drill 90 deg to the surface I was drilling and wobled out the hole a little..second is that it is hard to know exactly where to put the hole. Be careful that the fastener for the airbox cover does not hit your new tube assembly. I fixed mine by taking the airbox off, cleaning up the hole from the front side and securing the brass fitting with silicone adhesive. I made sure everything was very clean and scuffed it up with some sandpaper to ensure a good grip. Much better now.
Good luck,
Mike

  • r1superstar

Posted March 11, 2004 - 05:59 AM

#14

Shim/bucket valve trains are notorious for staying in spec....


Unless it's a CRF...

:D :D :)

  • DirtDobber

Posted March 11, 2004 - 07:56 AM

#15

To relocate the crankase vent tube I used a green pvc 1/2" waterhose connector from Wal-Mart. Price was .75 cents.
It has a bulkhead style ring in the center with each end stepped to keep the hose from slipping off. I used small screw band clamps to secure the hose.
I left the air box on, but removed the side cover and filter to access the inside of box. I also used a dremel with a 90 degree angle head to drill the 1/2" hole. I started with a cutting bit and increased the hole size using a small diameter sanding drum until I got a good tight fit on the hose connector. Then I inserted the hose conn. from the outside of the box into the hole. Attach a short left over piece of the vent tube (it had a 90 degree bend in it) to the inside of the box under the filter close to the bottom. Used the band clamp to hold it which also holds the connector in place at the same time. Then attached the vent hose to the outside part of the nipple with another band clamp. (I did put some white silicone adhesive to the surface between the air box and conn. shoulder to seal it).
DD




 
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