Wolf CDI info


10 replies to this topic
  • toten

Posted April 21, 2016 - 07:58 AM

#1

The 2001 YZ426F supermoto I have came with a Wolf CDI, with a switch on the handlebar. It didn't come with any paperwork related to the CDI. Can anyone give me info about it? I imagine it changes ignition timing, but I'd like to know what the differences between the two are. 

 

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  • stevethe

Posted April 21, 2016 - 09:16 AM

#2

One map would be advanced flip the switch and the other is a torque map. Similar to a Vortex ignition.

  • toten

Posted April 25, 2016 - 11:22 AM

#3

Do you happen to know which one is which?



  • stevethe

Posted April 25, 2016 - 12:28 PM

#4

Nope.

  • tmeyer37

Posted April 26, 2016 - 03:48 PM

#5

Found this on the web - http://www.newportcy...rt/wolf_cdi.htm

 

 

WOLF CDI

WOLF CDI
wolf_cdi_200x231.gif
 
  • Most advanced engine managment ignition available
  • Provides two performance bands
  • Map 1 provides noticable power increase through the entire rpm range and pulls farther on top end; suitable for sand and soft loom
  • Map 2 is a retard map design for traction control on hard pack and wet surfaces as well as tight woods riding
  • System provides performance similar to having two different pipes
  • Instant plug-in performance gain; activates by a handlebar mounted switch
  • Lifetime warranty


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  • toten

Posted April 26, 2016 - 05:13 PM

#6

Thanks for the link, that's exactly what I was looking for. I guess I'll start out with it in 2 (make it a little easier to get used to it, worry less about traction) and then if I decide I could use more power I'll use 1. Even with sticky tires on pavement more power can be a handful.

 

I wonder whether there's any real difference in starting difficulty, I haven't played with it enough to know.



  • tmeyer37

Posted April 27, 2016 - 06:40 AM

#7

Thanks for the link, that's exactly what I was looking for. I guess I'll start out with it in 2 (make it a little easier to get used to it, worry less about traction) and then if I decide I could use more power I'll use 1. Even with sticky tires on pavement more power can be a handful.

 

I wonder whether there's any real difference in starting difficulty, I haven't played with it enough to know.

 

Since this is an older 4 stroke with out FI this mostly affects timing. Don't think it will affect starting for you. With the 426 starting is all about procedure, once you get that down it will start easily as long as the carb is adjusted correctly and clean as well as the valves being in spec. 



  • toten

Posted April 27, 2016 - 07:43 AM

#8

I can't imagine it does anything other than ignition timing. I didn't know if it would change advance at low rpm, which could make it easier/harder to start. It isn't bad (usually 4 kicks or so), just figured I'd ask. 



  • grayracer513

Posted April 27, 2016 - 08:38 AM

#9

The rev box won't usually alter base timing at idle speeds, so starting should be the same.  As said, starting a 426 reliably depends on 1) procedure, 2) a clean, correctly tuned carb pilot circuit, and 3) a clean healthy spark plug.



  • toten

Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:13 AM

#10

Auto decomp exhaust cam changes starting procedure a bit I imagine, and the manual decomp has been removed, so the starting procedure is more like a 450 than a 426. I think it was you who said that, with the auto decomp, the procedure should just be petcock on, choke on, a squirt or two of accelerator pump, kick from whatever location (rather than finding some specific engine timing). That was around 4 kicks after having sat 2 weeks. When I found TDC, got just past it, got the lever to the very top, and kicked, it was about the same (which took longer, thanks to prep for each kick, this was when I bought the bike). Neither seems excessive to me, especially considering the sitting. I just figured I'd ask in case one of the maps was likely to make starting significantly harder. I might put manual decomp back on it, just in case I drop it and it floods, but probably won't bother.



  • grayracer513

Posted April 27, 2016 - 10:34 AM

#11

The difference with auto decompression is that you find COMPRESSION (which is the "hard spot", and IS NOT TDC) and then return the lever to the top and kick without moving the crankshaft any farther.  If you move the crank farther, you will pass the point in the compression stroke where spark occurs, and it will be much more difficult to start.  Just find the hard spot, reset the starter, and kick. 







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