Do i need a rectifier/regulator?

Yamaha WR450F 2006

7 replies to this topic
  • Elmoto

Posted April 16, 2016 - 01:54 PM

#1

Hey all.

 

Recently got my 06 wr450f registered and everything was going great until Friday afternoon while riding in the bush my lights, tail light and indicators stoped working. after riding a bit longer I realised everything would work again if I revved the bike really hard or went fast. after getting home I checked the bike over for faulty wires couldn't find anything. checked the batterie and it was holding a charge of 12v

 

So it seems to me that if I rev it hard and everything comes on its not the stator or the battery its the rectifier regulator? has anyone had a similar problem and had these symptoms? I just don't wanna buy the reg if its somting else.

 

cheers all.



  • toten

Posted April 16, 2016 - 02:49 PM

#2

It's also possible it's the stator. 



  • normanator27

Posted April 17, 2016 - 12:51 AM

#3

I'm not sure if this will help, but I used to have a tt60r. It used to start easily and run really well until it started to get properly hot after about 20-30 minutes. At that point it would start to cough and splutter, and back fire really badly before cutting out and it wouldnt run again until it cooled down properly. It ended up being the the rectifier regulator, it fixed it up well and good. I'm certainly no expert but I'd be looking at the stator first. I think if you have the right resistance values to check with (you might find these in a workshop manual??) you can test the stator with a multimeter. Again i'm no expert, and if if someone were to correct me on this I wouldnt be surprised. It could be a starting point though. Good luck.



  • toten

Posted April 17, 2016 - 08:06 AM

#4

The manual I have handy is 2004 but it indicates .288-.432 ohm from white lead to ground. I'd be surprised if it changed.



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  • Elmoto

Posted April 17, 2016 - 11:28 PM

#5

Ok so i dont have a mulitimeter or anything so instead of buying the part i had the mobile mechanic guy come around. hes thinks its the stator and didnt really have a way of testing the rectifier. he had pretty good reasoning behind the stator claim saying that the bike would still run because it was still routing enough power to run the motor but was to work and shorting out to run the lights and indicators properly. I'm gunna give it a go and get a stator onling and install it myself. ill keep you updated with what happens.



  • normanator27

Posted April 18, 2016 - 12:55 AM

#6

Ok so i dont have a mulitimeter or anything so instead of buying the part i had the mobile mechanic guy come around. hes thinks its the stator and didnt really have a way of testing the rectifier. he had pretty good reasoning behind the stator claim saying that the bike would still run because it was still routing enough power to run the motor but was to work and shorting out to run the lights and indicators properly. I'm gunna give it a go and get a stator onling and install it myself. ill keep you updated with what happens.

 

You can buy multimeters for little $$ at jaycar or dick smiths or something like that. I got a pretty decent one for about $20 I think. You'll be annoyed if you replace the stator and its not that.



  • Elmoto

Posted April 28, 2016 - 11:22 PM

#7

Ok so, just before I was about to order the stator I decided to take a look in the engine to make sure I ordered the right part. just before I took the side cover off the bottom end I found a short in the wiring of the horn. I crimped it back together now everything is working fine lights, indicators everything. I also noticed my headlight bulb was a 65w and on the headlight it says it needsa 35/35. I changed over to the 35/35 and everything is still running perfect after 2 long rides, through water and all.

looks like I dodged a bullet there.



  • toten

Posted April 29, 2016 - 06:17 AM

#8

If you aren't having problems with the 65 (the likely ones would be it being yellow and dim if it doesn't get enough power, or it melts the housing or wiring), I don't know that there's much advantage to the 35. Since the WR lighting runs on AC, it's being powered by a different part of the charging system than the battery is on, so it shouldn't drain the battery or anything. I don't know how bright you can reasonably get away with before you have heat problems or brownout, though. 







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