Please Help with 06' YZ woods blaster setup

[shaheeb]

Dear YZ family, looks like I need some help with my bike set up.   I'm not the best mechanic and I don't really know whats wrong with my bike, only how to describe what I am feeling so this may be long

 

I thought I bought an 09' bike but ended up finding out mine is an 06' from the serial number when a brake adapter wouldn't work.  Starting to think the previous owner just wanted to dump the bike as its a lemon maybe?

 

Basically the bike seems to run lean in the mid to the top end, even with rich jetting.  Granted where I live I need jetting that is about two jets richer than everywhere else talked about on this forum.

 

JD 2 scribe for a yz in clip 4, 52 pilot, 180 main.  a/s 1 turn.   idle screw spring is basically flat-its turned in pretty far already, changed out the stock 50 screw(forgot name) for a 40 today.  It seemed a bit neutered but was very good in the low speed slick tech we have here.  I really like that change for up to 1/4 throttle.     Is it possible the #8 slide is causing my lean issue?   long 3 or 4 minute steep hillclimbs with some clutching makes the bike ping lean when finally up top of the climb.

 

I have also tried the loved NECJ #3, 50 pilot, a/s 1 1/4 to 1 turn out, 172 main.  this was good up to 1/4 throttle lean above that.  at clip 3.5 with the same settings it ran sort of rough or burbly.  even with the a/s backed out to 1 3/4.  I stopped there and canned the needle for the jd blue above.

 

I've pressure tested and it held fine thinking I had an air leak from an older post.

reeds are good.

carb cleaned.   I even paid a mechanic to make sure I did it right.  he is the one who tried to tune the necj needle for me and came up with 50/172 and a/s with the #8 slide.

 

Pro circuit platinum 2 pipe and stock can with 3 rides on fresh repack.

bought an fmf sst to try still, thinking it will make the

filter is dirty

gas is 92 octane mixed 44;1  and 50:1 usually.  I am trying different oils but all amsoil (dominator / interceptor, just bought some saber to try a rich mix, say 88:1 or 100:1 to see how the bike likes that.

 

I have retarded the timing pretty far,

fww

x cdi

x pv spring/washers

throttle cam (400)

13/51 gearing

rb head  23.5 volume   * I do have a leaking cylinder head nut,  I used new O-rings on the head install but reused the crush washers.  is that a bad thing?  why its leaking?  tightening it more did not help as it leaked today.

 

 

hoping you guys can help me see the light.

 

should i send this thing to France and get a new x instead???

 

oh yeah  factory connection trail suspension work rocks on this bike!   better than full ohlins and mx tech clp mod rear shock on the PDS ktm 200 i own.

 

love the yz but need to figure this one thing out and we will be golden.

 

cheers

[shaheeb]

heres a picture to make the thread better

here it is...

[Nevada Al]

Dude put chit back to stock and start 1 by 1 mods. RB head squish should do nothing but help. Your bike should run well in that scenario where you are.. Not sure why you'd have Aleah just start over and see what happens

Edited April 15, 2016 by Nevada Al

[Nevada Al]

Btw thanks for the picture not much better than yz porn..lol

[rpt50]

I agree with Nevada Al!  Put it back to stock settings for everything, and start with fresh gas and a clean air filter.  Do you think yamaha engineers just make up stuff to put in the manual?  What's with all the crazy oil ratios?  The bike comes from the factory jetted very well to run on a 30:1 oil ratio (32:1 is convenient).  You should need only very minor tweaks from stock jetting, if any.  If you have the stock pipe laying around, I would put that back on too if this is a woods bike.

[LSHD]

Step 1: Did you check your float level? Too low and you'll go lean every time once you get going fast.

 

 

Lots of mods and everything all funky as far as settings. Like the other guys have said, put everything back to stock. Do you have the stock pipe? Your jetting should be not much different than mine (set for hot and humid) except for altitude.

 

NE3J, Clip 3

42-45 PJ and 172-175 Main

AS ~ 1

 

Use standard 32:1 fuel, and verify your head volume. Maybe you are getting detonation, which really robs power.

 

What is the 50/40 "screw" you are talking about? Do you mean the Power Jet? Going to a 40 will make things worse (lean) at 5/8 and up throttle.

Edited April 15, 2016 by LSHD

[seer]

My cr had an air leak that would hold pressure on a test. Get up to temps and it would run lean.

[seer]

Run a reasonable oil ratio if you're ridding over 5 mph. 100 to 1 isn't reasonable.

[shaheeb]

Step 1: Did you check your float level? Too low and you'll go lean every time once you get going fast.

 

 

 Do you have the stock pipe?

 

What is the 50/40 "screw" you are talking about? Do you mean the Power Jet?

That's whats its called!  thanks  power jet,  really smoothed things out but turned the bike into a 200 ?

 

The bike came with a platinum pipe, I have an sst new unused/  but I think I will sell that one and try to find an srt stock replacement or .. maybe a fatty   that one looks good too.   

 

talked to mechanic today, he said he usually sets floats low so fuel doesn't leak on the trail bikes.   I could/should raise it.  

 

do I bend the tang above the needle down to raise floats?

 

I got the 88:1 - 100:1 oil ratio from the guys on Kauai,   they ride the hell out of some yz's and absolutely shred.

apparently the new amsoil saber states on the bottle you can run these wack ratios.

 

if you haven't ridden our clay / mud you just haven't ridden slick slick more slick trails.  lol.  its crazy here.  The dirt / traction is so much harder than colorado, Idaho, bc , California and Carolina mud.    that's why the bike is so dumbed down.  hahaha   braap

Edited April 16, 2016 by shaheeb

[LSHD]

That's whats its called!  thanks  power jet,  really smoothed things out but turned the bike into a 200 ?

 

The bike came with a platinum pipe, I have an sst new unused/  but I think I will sell that one and try to find an srt stock replacement or .. maybe a fatty   that one looks good too.   

 

talked to mechanic today, he said he usually sets floats low so fuel doesn't leak on the trail bikes.   I could/should raise it.  

 

do I bend the tang above the needle down to raise floats?

 

I got the 88:1 - 100:1 oil ratio from the guys on Kauai,   they ride the hell out of some yz's and absolutely shred.

apparently the new amsoil saber states on the bottle you can run these wack ratios.

 

if you haven't ridden our clay / mud you just haven't ridden slick slick more slick trails.  lol.  its crazy here.  The dirt / traction is so much harder than colorado, Idaho, bc , California and Carolina mud.    that's why the bike is so dumbed down.  hahaha   braap

 

 

If you run 32:1 and jet accordingly, you can get oil almost anywhere. Those 100:1 oils aren't on the shelf at your local lawn mower or boat shop. But 32:1 is.

 

Follow your manual to set your float height. I wouldn't recommend touching the carb without the manual based on the questions you are asking. Remember that the weight of the floats will depress the needle valve if you hold the body upside down, giving you a false (too small) measurement. You can see it happen as you rotate the body. So instead, slowly rotate the body until you see the floats start to depress the needle valve, then rotate the other way until the floats are touching the needle valve but not compressing it. About a 45 degrees seems to be good (and there are some UTube videos showing this). You then bend the float height tab toward the bottom of the floats to lower the height, and visa versa. I would try going stock first (0.22 - 0.30 inches).

 

Slick mud in HI slicker than the Carolinas? Surely you jest! 

Edited April 16, 2016 by LSHD

[used2Bfast]

I think I spy M4 magazine pouches on that vest.

[Spooge]

I agree we everyone here that is saying "Return to stock settings"  

 

As far as your premix, recognize that changes to your ratio effect the bike as well - running 100:1will make your bike richer, and at that ratio you are starving the bike of the oil it needs.  Stick with what the nice people at Yamaha recommend.

 

Lastly, changing one thing at a time is also great advice.

[LSHD]

I think I spy M4 magazine pouches on that vest.

 

Pouch on the lower right is for my pistol, which you can see I have already put back in the truck.  ?

[shaheeb]

Yesterday I tried the #7 slide, and slightly raised the float needle to 7.5mm or .3"

 

noticed an improvement with the lean issue at the top of long clutch abusing hills.   power felt a little weak

 

 I found I do have a new n3ew needle and can try stock jetting.   I was reading how the 06' 250 stock needle position is 3rd clip vs. newer model years where Yamaha runs 2nd clip.  motor changes perhaps?

Edited April 17, 2016 by shaheeb

[shaheeb]

somethings gotta give.   just went with the n3ew #3, 52, 180, #7 slide, 32:1 amsoil on 92 pump fuel.

 

the jetting works but its not perfect.  I really think there is something wrong with this bike.. there has to be an air leak because no matter what jetting I run the bike leans out slightly.  think I am going to sell and keep an eye out for a deal on a new x.

 

thanks for all the help

Edited April 22, 2016 by shaheeb

[YZJ]

Pouch on the lower right is for my pistol, which you can see I have already put back in the truck. ?

Adventure world? Got stuck so many times the last time I was there, ha.

[bikedude987]

How old is your top end?  a worn top end will run lean...

[Doc_speeder]

Why do you say it's lean? What symptoms are you experiencing?

[Spooge]

somethings gotta give.   just went with the n3ew #3, 52, 180, #7 slide, 32:1 amsoil on 92 pump fuel.

 

the jetting works but its not perfect.  I really think there is something wrong with this bike.. there has to be an air leak because no matter what jetting I run the bike leans out slightly.  think I am going to sell and keep an eye out for a deal on a new x.

 

thanks for all the help

 

Nothing that can't be fixed, go back to stock jetting! Just try it, make 1 change at a time.  If that doesn't work, time to check other things.....

 

Main jet: 178, Pilot jet: 50, Power jet: 50, Needle: N3EW (N1EJ stock), Clip position: 3rd from top, Air screw: 1-1/2 turns out (2 stock)

Notes: On a warm day it’s perfect but in cold weather or under a load, it tends to be on the lean side. For most situations, raising the needle will work, but if you add an aftermarket pipe, ride in sand or ride at elevation, you’ll need a bigger main or the N3EW needle.

[218]

Why do you say it's lean? What symptoms are you experiencing?

Yeah, what he said.