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new to me 07 WR450f - easier clutch pull & getting it started in the morning questions

By jamesm113,
in WR400F/426F/450F

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jamesm113

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Got to ride my new 07 WR450f last weekend out at jawbone canyon & dove springs.  Coming from an 01 wr250f, this bike is an absolute monster- I hit 78mph on a fire road & the bike was still pulling hard :jawdrop:  :jawdrop: .  I also had to upshift(!!!)   :jawdrop:  :jawdrop:  during a hill climb at dove springs.

 

Two minor issues I had though-

 

1. The clutch.  The clutch was harder to pull vs my old bike and my left hand got tired after a day of riding.  Anything I can do to soften that up or should I start getting my hand stronger?  For what it's worth, it has an ASV lever.

 

2. Had some issues getting the bike started in the morning.  I'd pull out the choke, turn on the ignition, and the bike would start first kick (battery's dead ?).  Gave it a few minutes to warm up, then pushed in the choke and as soon as I revved the throttle, the bike would die.  It took 10 minutes of waiting/kicking to get it started again.  This happened both mornings.  To me, it felt like the engine was spinning enough to run, but no spark.  Every other time I started the bike, it would start first kick.  Once the bike was warmed up, it ran great - no bogs, flat spots, etc.  Maybe a slight hanging idle if I'd been sitting still for too long.  AP was snappy and responsive as well.

 

Before the weekend I threw in a new iridium plug (CR8EIX) and the JD jet kit & fuel screw (red-4 needle, 165 main, 48 pilot, ap thick o-ring, fuel screw 2 turns out).  What should I be looking at?  Could it be the dead battery?

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Grand Master

FORMA MOTO

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The clutch cable needs lubing, but the stock cables aren't very smooth.

A Motion pro clutch cable will help a lot.

If you are not a massive hill climber, you can also put in a 3 or 6 250f clutch springs

 

48 pilot is too big; 45

Adjust the fuel screw once hot, for highest idle

The motor is not ready to ride until the left radiator is too hot to touch. That can be 5 minutes.

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Grand Master

RockerYZWR

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The clutch cable needs lubing, but the stock cables aren't very smooth.

A Motion pro clutch cable will help a lot.

A MotionPro cable won't do shit. The feel and drag is identical to the stock cable, and my T3 MP cable broke out in the middle of nowhere after not even two years of use. It's nothing special. Stick to stock.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/1079681-Motion-Pro-T3-Slidelight-Clutch-Cable

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Grand Master

RockerYZWR

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I'm a super fan of a lot of their stuff, tools and other products, but after a couple of tries, I'm not personally convinced their cables are any better than stock and the skimpy T3 isn't worth the risk if you spend a lot of time miles away from stuff. If the cable is clean, lubed and properly routed, the pull is as good as it's going to be; there's no magic bullet. Just my opinion. The one nice thing about the MP cable is the little lube ports they put on there - makes that job a little easier.

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Grand Master

woods-rider

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Since your bike is used and is more than just a couple years old check the clutch basket for notching, put in 3 WR250F clutch springs, and a hydraulic clutch. These will give one finger all day long pull, at least they did on my '12.

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toten

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My WR is always hard to start cold. Valves are in spec, I've fiddled with the idle mixture screw, but it still tends to be difficult. It also REALLY hates old gas, so it's possible that the gas in the carb goes bad quickly enough that it doesn't want to start, and I need to wait for less bad gas from the tank or something. 

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jamesm113

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My WR is always hard to start cold. Valves are in spec, I've fiddled with the idle mixture screw, but it still tends to be difficult. It also REALLY hates old gas, so it's possible that the gas in the carb goes bad quickly enough that it doesn't want to start, and I need to wait for less bad gas from the tank or something. 

Yea, the thing is.  It started first kick with the choke on (love the JD jet kits btw...).  But you brought up a very good point about bad gas.  It still had some gas (maybe 1/2 gal) from previous owner, who, judging by condition of float bowl, hadn't ridden the bike in a long while.  

 

I guess i'll continue to monitor.  Does anyone think the battery is at fault?  It won't hold a powerful enough charge to spin the starter.

 

I'll clean/lube the clutch cable to see if I get any improvement that way.  It wasn't very stiff, but stiff enough that it bothered me by the end of the day.

 

EDIT:  The JD kit came with the 48 pilot, as does the GTYR AIS removal kit.  PO had the 48 pilot screw and fuel screw 2 turns out.  JD recommend #48 and 1 1/4 turns out.

Edited by jamesm113
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GASKICKER

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Since your bike is used and is more than just a couple years old check the clutch basket for notching, put in 3 WR250F clutch springs, and a hydraulic clutch. These will give one finger all day long pull, at least they did on my '12.

I did the springs without the hydro clutch and its a 1 finger pull most of the day.

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Rising Star

falconjet

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My 07 really likes a good prime for cold starts.

 

I twist the throttle 5 times and pull out the choke.

 

Hit the button and it fires off in less than a second every time.

 

If I twist less than 5 it does not want to start.

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Grand Master

DrFeelGood

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My 07 really likes a good prime for cold starts.

 

I twist the throttle 5 times and pull out the choke.

 

Hit the button and it fires off in less than a second every time.

 

If I twist less than 5 it does not want to start.

 

My 08 likes 2 twists (with the throttle stop cut to YZ length (18mm?)  It liked 5 with the stock throttle stop.

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jamesm113

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I did the clutch lever mod. Hand lever that is... Wow what an improvement. Do it !

 

What's the clutch lever mod?  Would it work with an ASV lever?

 

 

My 08 likes 2 twists (with the throttle stop cut to YZ length (18mm?)  It liked 5 with the stock throttle stop.

 

Yea, the problem isn't getting the bike started cold - it's the transition from cold bike to warm bike.  With the JD jet kit, it's starts first kick with choke only and no twists.  I only have trouble when I turn the choke off.  I think I just need to wait longer - until the left radiator is hot to touch, which is about 5 minutes per KRANNIE.

 

Anyway, thanks everyone for the tips...

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ttreewalkerr

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And no,, your cable don't wear out sooner,, just dreamed that baby out smooth... I drilled 1/8th hole at about same angle as further slot,, then just drill couple more holes, then dremmel them out till a slot, smooth it out, done.. then feel and you'll say Sssshhhhytttt,, ypu won't stop clutching it.

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