Post deleted by Steve_Claus



7 replies to this topic
  • roostin426

Posted March 20, 2002 - 10:07 PM

#1

you have to order a manual for this bike. It rips and the motor is a beast. you have to keep on top of the torque specs for about 50 parts. it the best $45 you'll ever spend. Do not over tighten and strip these soft aluminum parts, these bolts stip easy, and they ALL have torque specs.

  • skthom2320

Posted March 20, 2002 - 10:24 PM

#2

You absolutely need the manual. Find a friend and copy his.

What oil to use is a frequently visited topic on TT. Do a search using the term "what oil" or "oil change" and you will have enough reading to last you through the winter.

I use Mobil 1 15-50 (in the red cap) from Wal-Mart. It fits the bill for what is called for in the manual and it is a synthetic. Yamalube 4 /4R are also safe to use. As outlined in the manual you really only need to be certain that you use a "non-energy conserving" oil so that friction modifiers don't mess with your clutch. I have seen TTers using Amsoil, BelRay, Castrol, Motul, Golden Spectro, etc.

I sleep better using the synthetic oils.

This is a good link for oils ==> http://www.yft.org/t...r/tech/oil.htm.

Oil Change Tips
======================
I am sure most of this applies to years other than my 2001 426 with the possible exception of the torque specs and amount of oil to use.

(1) There are two drain plugs on the 400/426, one in the lower frame spar behind the front wheel and one underneath the engine accessed through a hole in the skid plate. Both are 12 mm on my '01 426.

(2) I drain the frame one first and use a milk carton to redirect the stream into a pan (it would go all over my front wheel otherwise). Then I drain from the engine.

(3) My manual gives a frame torque spec of 17 ft-lbs (205 in-lbs) and the engine torque spec of 14 ft-lbs (186 in-lbs). Be CERTAIN that you torque them properly (look in YOUR manual for correct specs - no guarantees from me) and that when you loosen them you are turning them the correct direction. The engine one WILL strip if over-torqued.

(4) I remove the oil filter (three bolts, two 8mm and one hex) every other oil change and inspect/clean it (don't have to loosen the header pipe if you are 2001 or newer or have an aftermarket header). If there are no tears I just clean it with carb cleaner and reuse it. I have 2 or 3 spares and rotate them. If you can't clean or there are tears use a new filter. Don't worry about shavings in the filter. It is normal. I wipe out the cavity with a rag then use a q-tip to clean out shavings that may have made their way into the lower drain bolt threads (the hex bolt).

(5) The oil filter bolt torque specs are 7.2 ft-lbs (86 in-lbs) in my '01 426 manual. Again always use a GOOD torque wrench and know YOUR torque specs.

(6) Now you are ready to fill'er up. I put a small funnel in the filler opening (above the gas tank) and pour 1500 cc (about 1.6 qt) in without filter change or 1600 cc (about 1.7 qt) with filter change on my bike. Pour in the last few 100 cc relatively slowly. I have had the filler opening overflow and dump oil all down the frame more than one time. I have found that the first quart (946 cc) can go in pretty fast. Then if you wait for 5-10 minutes or so the last 500-600 cc won't have as much tendency to overflow.

(7) Check the level after you run the engine for about 3 minutes (you can put a fan in front of the radiators if you are worried about overheating). Just check it within 30 seconds of shutting the engine off . Don't screw the dipstick in, just place it in and pull it out.


Also, here are some torque specs that may be handy. They are from my 2001 manual (all in ft-lbs):

Triple clamps - top 17, bottom 14
Oil drain - frame 17, engine 14
Rear axle - 90
front axle - 75
triple clamp, nut under handle bars (30 mm) - 105
handlebars - 21
oil filter cover bolts - 7.2

Another one that is useful is the pinch bolts for the front axle on the forks but I can't remember that one (I'm at work).

That should get you started!

[ March 20, 2002: Message edited by: skthom2320 ]

  • FASTFRANK

Posted March 20, 2002 - 10:39 PM

#3

Glad to hear we have another proud owner of a 426. I have a 01 with about 40 hrs on it probably and pretty much go by what was mentioned above. I have used Bel-Ray EXL (not synthetic) 10w-40 for years in all I have owned motorcycle wise. I even ran it in my pushmower. LOL Never had any problems with clutches etc. with this oil. The shavings you encounter with oil changes are normal from what I hear from everyone else, so just inspect and clean. The frame also has a screen that should be cleaned out also. I have changed my oil 4-5 times and only found a little shavings in there one time so just check it out every couple of oil changes. This procedure to check that screen extends oil changing time by quite a bit and it is a headache if you do not have the correct socket to fit it. Enjoy your bike and I hope this helps. Frank

  • Hokie

Posted March 20, 2002 - 11:17 AM

#4

Originally posted by skthom2320:
I use Mobil 1 15-50 (in the red cap) from Wal-Mart. It fits the bill for what is called for in the manual and it is a synthetic.


I have to agree with this!
I'm on my 2nd Yamaha Thumper and have used nothing but Mobil 1 15w-50 (in the red cap) in both of them.

No problems what so ever.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Shawn_Mc

Posted March 20, 2002 - 01:05 PM

#5

Do yourself a huge favor and plug the hole that goes from the filter to the allen screw in the cover. The metal particals that are mentioned go down the hole and get into the threads and strip the case. Its not a disaster, but its a pain at best doing the helicoil fix. Also watch the swing arm under the chain buffer. This is a high wear location.

  • RichB

Posted March 21, 2002 - 09:58 AM

#6

Shawn,

What did you use to plug that hole?

  • CAL

Posted March 21, 2002 - 10:31 PM

#7

I had used Mobil 1 15w50 for years, but after talking with a bike mechanic, I've decided to start using motorcycle specific oils. Usually dyno oils. I think I'm going to stick to the bike manufact. oils as well. For example, in my DRZ I started running Suzuki oil, in my 426 I'm running Yamalube. There's so many opinions about oils it's ridiculous. Just find one that fits your price range and change it FREQUENTLY. I'm very pleased with the price and trans. shifting with Yamalube 4.

  • John_Lorenz

Posted March 21, 2002 - 10:46 PM

#8

Use the Old stuff from your Car its broken in already :)
:D Just kidding I use CASTROL ACT>EVO4STR 20W50 buy it in the 4 litter can its cheaper in the long haul. It is a matter of prefreance and what you are familure with. I agree synthetics are ok but make &^%^MM sure it is non energy absorb. Again I will endorse my belief that just becouse the pros use it or recommend it dont make it work squat., They are paid to be Tabloids, do the research like here then make a choice. I always have used Castrol in all my engines

[ March 21, 2002: Message edited by: EgoAhole ]





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