Does your 2012-1215 start well, and what did you do to achieve this?

Yamaha WR450F

53 replies to this topic
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 27, 2016 - 06:48 AM

#21

Yeah, it's an impractical project, but I like the fit  and handling of the WR.

 

A full titanium kit for the YZ450F, including axles is $4000.....and only saves 6lbs!  What a waste of money....

 

Fantasy talk:

Motormount brackets replicated in aluminum

Frame inner checkerboard braces arced out and drilled out (several places)

Axles bored out .5mm

Steering head bored out .25mm

Tripled clamps machined down (now this would be tough, and expensive, as it would require cnc laser modeling and machining....and it's probably cheaper to buy aftermarket...)

Shift drum machined of it's unneded metal (KTM shift drums are billet Aluminum. Yamaha's are mild steel)

Crank lightend, balanced

Flywheel lightended, balanced

Clutch hub drilled 

Clutch basket drilled

Idler gears for oil pump, etc, drilled

Obviously, all steel bracketing removed and replaced with aluminum or plastic

All non-structural fasteners replaced with aluminum

Airbox plastic trimmed way down

Overflow system removed

Harness simplified

Ignition starter button removed (replaced key and relay)

Minimalist protection hardware

Ti header

SS muffler

Li battery

Fork sanctions machined down accept at clamp contact points



  • JDLowrance

Posted March 27, 2016 - 08:30 AM

#22

Yeah, it's an impractical project, but I like the fit  and handling of the WR.
 
A full titanium kit for the YZ450F, including axles is $4000.....and only saves 6lbs!  What a waste of money....
 
Fantasy talk:
Motormount brackets replicated in aluminum
Frame inner checkerboard braces arced out and drilled out (several places)
Axles bored out .5mm
Steering head bored out .25mm
Tripled clamps machined down (now this would be tough, and expensive, as it would require cnc laser modeling and machining....and it's probably cheaper to buy aftermarket...)
Shift drum machined of it's unneded metal (KTM shift drums are billet Aluminum. Yamaha's are mild steel)
Crank lightend, balanced
Flywheel lightended, balanced
Clutch hub drilled 
Clutch basket drilled
Idler gears for oil pump, etc, drilled
Obviously, all steel bracketing removed and replaced with aluminum or plastic
All non-structural fasteners replaced with aluminum
Airbox plastic trimmed way down
Overflow system removed
Harness simplified
Ignition starter button removed (replaced key and relay)
Minimalist protection hardware
Ti header
SS muffler
Li battery
Fork sanctions machined down accept at clamp contact points


Wow....that's one hell of a project.

I put an Earth X battery in mine and starts fine hot/cold in neutral. In gear 50/50, don't even bother any more....neutral is easy enough to find.

  • Texas2Smoker

Posted March 27, 2016 - 11:30 AM

#23

Yeah, it's an impractical project, but I like the fit and handling of the WR.

A full titanium kit for the YZ450F, including axles is $4000.....and only saves 6lbs! What a waste of money....

Fantasy talk:
Motormount brackets replicated in aluminum
Frame inner checkerboard braces arced out and drilled out (several places)
Axles bored out .5mm
Steering head bored out .25mm
Tripled clamps machined down (now this would be tough, and expensive, as it would require cnc laser modeling and machining....and it's probably cheaper to buy aftermarket...)
Shift drum machined of it's unneded metal (KTM shift drums are billet Aluminum. Yamaha's are mild steel)
Crank lightend, balanced
Flywheel lightended, balanced
Clutch hub drilled
Clutch basket drilled
Idler gears for oil pump, etc, drilled
Obviously, all steel bracketing removed and replaced with aluminum or plastic
All non-structural fasteners replaced with aluminum
Airbox plastic trimmed way down
Overflow system removed
Harness simplified
Ignition starter button removed (replaced key and relay)
Minimalist protection hardware
Ti header
SS muffler
Li battery
Fork sanctions machined down accept at clamp contact points

Wow. If you want a structurally compromised bike, just buy a KTM... No way all that adds up to 25lb. Probably be cheaper to throw lighter aftermarket parts on anyway. Do you realize how much money a machinist will want for all that?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 27, 2016 - 01:09 PM

#24

Wow. If you want a structurally compromised bike, just buy a KTM... No way all that adds up to 25lb. Probably be cheaper to throw lighter aftermarket parts on anyway. Do you realize how much money a machinist will want for all that?

 

Probably about $5k....... :facepalm:


Edited by KRANNIE, March 27, 2016 - 01:10 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted March 27, 2016 - 02:01 PM

#25

If you like the handling of the WR just buy one of the leftovers and do the usual suspension and power bolt-ons.

You don't really notice the weight....that is unless you're switching back and forth between a 300 and the WR.

  • Texas2Smoker

Posted March 27, 2016 - 02:30 PM

#26

Probably about $5k....... :facepalm:

Yeah that's probably about right. If I had time and a proper scale I would weigh out some aftermarket parts (brake lever etc.) and see how much you could potentially save from things like that but I just don't have the time or the tool :(

  • stevethe

Posted March 27, 2016 - 03:05 PM

#27

I hate to say it but as usual by the time the Dough is spent. You will be way better off with the 2016 model. So few things needed and wallah.
But if you insist I do have a motorcycle cnc mill and lathe guy for you very reasonable.

  • RockerYZWR

Posted March 27, 2016 - 03:38 PM

#28

Go do an apprenticeship under MLCG.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 27, 2016 - 05:29 PM

#29

I hate to say it but as usual by the time the Dough is spent. You will be way better off with the 2016 model. So few things needed and wallah.
But if you insist I do have a motorcycle cnc mill and lathe guy for you very reasonable.

 

Holding out to see if there is a 2017 Honda XC  before making any decisions......which Honda won't build. Again.



  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 05:57 AM

#30

Yo Krannie, you know my answer, right? :rolleyes:

 

In a nutshell: if you don't have access to the FI Diag tool, forget it.

 

However, that is what you can achieve

IF you know how to jet a WR.

 

 

Check this out as info regarding idle mixture and CO setting tool

 

btw. still running at CO set to -30 (that's right, maxxed out negative) and loving each in gear e-start ever since.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, March 29, 2016 - 06:01 AM.


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  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:35 AM

#31

Justify the EXPENSE....I just bought a brand new BETA.....and it is fantastic, but it's still a 'lightweight' kind of bike, and I don't think it will ever do well going really fast over really rough terrain.

My '08 WR/YZ450F is got some hours on it and I don't want to put any more money into it.

I want to sell it as it sits, and not remove any accesories and peformance upgrades.

...and I am tired of constantly doing carb 'crap' to keep it running tip-top.

 

It looks like you can get a brand new 2014 WR450F for 5999 OTD from several places around the country.  That's well over $2k less than a 2016.... and either bike will require the same amount of 'extras' to get it to fit me.

 

I'm thinking about taking a stock WR450F and see how I can get 25lbs off of it without buying any 'trick' parts or removing anything like the starter.

 

Just a machine shop and some creativity, and maybe some custom built parts like axles, steering stems, motor mounts, etc etc.

I would even go at the frame and add in some flex..........

 

I wonder how much a used CNC machine might cost....... :goofy:

 

Except for the starter comment, you've been reading too many of my posts !



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:37 AM

#32

Yeah, it's an impractical project, but I like the fit  and handling of the WR.

 

A full titanium kit for the YZ450F, including axles is $4000.....and only saves 6lbs!  What a waste of money....

 

Fantasy talk:

Motormount brackets replicated in aluminum

Frame inner checkerboard braces arced out and drilled out (several places)

Axles bored out .5mm

Steering head bored out .25mm

Tripled clamps machined down (now this would be tough, and expensive, as it would require cnc laser modeling and machining....and it's probably cheaper to buy aftermarket...)

Shift drum machined of it's unneded metal (KTM shift drums are billet Aluminum. Yamaha's are mild steel)

Crank lightend, balanced

Flywheel lightended, balanced

Clutch hub drilled 

Clutch basket drilled

Idler gears for oil pump, etc, drilled

Obviously, all steel bracketing removed and replaced with aluminum or plastic

All non-structural fasteners replaced with aluminum

Airbox plastic trimmed way down

Overflow system removed

Harness simplified

Ignition starter button removed (replaced key and relay)

Minimalist protection hardware

Ti header

SS muffler

Li battery

Fork sanctions machined down accept at clamp contact points

 

The valve cover on the WRs is aluminum.   On a KTM they are plastic.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:38 AM

#33

FYI, I'm probably going to do some lightening work on a 2016 YZ450FX next winter.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:45 AM

#34

Yeah that's probably about right. If I had time and a proper scale I would weigh out some aftermarket parts (brake lever etc.) and see how much you could potentially save from things like that but I just don't have the time or the tool :(

 

A $25 digital fishing scale works well.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, March 29, 2016 - 08:46 AM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 08:50 AM

#35

As far as electric start on most bikes, I don't get it.   Half the KTMs I ride with don't estart well.   The Sherco 300 estarts terrible.  My WR was terrible.  It is honestly faster to flip out the kickstart lever and give it a kick or two than use estart on a lot of these bikes.

 

estart is a waste if you have to find neutral to use it, imho.

 

Best use of estart is when you are attacking the trail and accidentally stall it.   Hit the button and go, if it works.  If it doesn't and you have to find neutral, why bother.  I can flip out the kickstart lever and kick it before you can find neutral, especially if you are in a precarious position.

 

I'm just getting used to estart on my YZ20FX.  It seems to work excellent.  I like having it.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, March 29, 2016 - 08:52 AM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 29, 2016 - 01:29 PM

#36

The valve cover on the WRs is aluminum.   On a KTM they are plastic.

 

Not on any KTM I have ever seen....


Except for the starter comment, you've been reading too many of my posts !

 

Actually no, once you removed your starter, I stopped reading your posts.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted March 29, 2016 - 02:11 PM

#37

 

Actually no, once you removed your starter, I stopped reading your posts.

 

Your replies to my posts prove otherwise.  The starter function was gone immediately.  The battery was one of the first things I removed.

 

Very ironic that you are now thinking of doing a weight reduction program on a FI WR.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, March 29, 2016 - 02:13 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 29, 2016 - 02:22 PM

#38

Your replies to my posts prove otherwise.  The starter function was gone immediately.  The battery was one of the first things I removed.

 

Very ironic that you are now thinking of doing a weight reduction program on a FI WR.

 

You must have a different Dictionary than I have.



  • Chaconne

Posted March 29, 2016 - 02:44 PM

#39

As far as electric start on most bikes, I don't get it.   Half the KTMs I ride with don't estart well.   The Sherco 300 estarts terrible.  My WR was terrible.  It is honestly faster to flip out the kickstart lever and give it a kick or two than use estart on a lot of these bikes.

 

estart is a waste if you have to find neutral to use it, imho.

 

Best use of estart is when you are attacking the trail and accidentally stall it.   Hit the button and go, if it works.  If it doesn't and you have to find neutral, why bother.  I can flip out the kickstart lever and kick it before you can find neutral, especially if you are in a precarious position.

 

I'm just getting used to estart on my YZ20FX.  It seems to work excellent.  I like having it.

If I knew how easy it was to kickstart my 2014wr I might not have been so enthusiastic to get estart. I have not had any problems with estart on my bike either in gear or not. I have been doubled over many times on 85+ degree days after kicking and trying to restart some of my non-estart bikes after get offs in the usual bad places or wheel deep in New England mud...And that does not happen anymore. :ride:


Edited by Chaconne, March 29, 2016 - 02:45 PM.


  • Summit

Posted March 30, 2016 - 11:55 AM

#40

The kick starter on my 11 year old bike has been used about 3 times.......original battery too. The button just seems so much easier.





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