changin my oil first time, suggestions?



3 replies to this topic
  • roostin426

Posted March 18, 2002 - 06:00 AM

#1

im changin my oil for the first time. Do i really need to take off the muffler? Should i just clean the filter or buy a new one?

  • Dodger

Posted March 18, 2002 - 07:44 AM

#2

Depends on what year scoot you have, I think on 2000 and older you will need to remove the head pipe (not the "muffler") :) .

If it's your first oil change you will have lots of metal particles in your filter. You can clean them out with some contact cleaner, or swish it around in a jar of gas. If you can't get it totally clean, I would go ahead and replace the filter.

Dodger

[ March 18, 2002: Message edited by: Dodger ]

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  • Shawn_Mc

Posted March 18, 2002 - 07:46 AM

#3

You can just wash out the filter. Do yourself a huge favor, plug the hole that goes to the bottom allenscrew for the cover. You'll know what I mean when you have the cover off the filter. The drain hole for the filter goes through the allenscrew hole and small metal chips that are normal, get into the threads causing the case to strip. You can plug the hole with silicone sealant. This littel deal will save you from having to take the case off and having a helicoil put in after a couple of oil changes. Its really not that big of a deal to fix, but why, when its completely avoidable.

  • skthom2320

Posted March 18, 2002 - 07:47 AM

#4

Try this on for size. My experience from being a TT addict!


Oil Change Tips
======================

I am sure most of this applies to years other than my 2001 426 with the possible exception of the torque specs and amount of oil to use.

(1) There are two drain plugs on the 400/426, one in the lower frame spar behind the front wheel and one underneath the engine accessed through a hole in the skid plate. Both are 12 mm on my '01 426.

(2) I drain the frame one first and use a milk carton to redirect the stream into a pan (it would go all over my front wheel otherwise). Then I drain from the engine.

(3) My manual gives a frame torque spec of 17 ft-lbs (205 in-lbs) and the engine torque spec of 14 ft-lbs (186 in-lbs). Be CERTAIN that you torque them properly (look in YOUR manual for correct specs - no guarantees from me) and that when you loosen them you are turning them the correct direction. The engine one WILL strip if over-torqued.

(4) I remove the oil filter (three bolts, two 8mm and one hex) every other oil change and inspect/clean it (don't have to loosen the header pipe if you are 2001 or newer or have an aftermarket header). If there are no tears I just clean it with carb cleaner and reuse it. I have 2 or 3 spares and rotate them. Don't worry about shavings in the filter. It is normal. I wipe out the cavity with a rag then use a q-tip to clean out shavings that may have made their way into the lower drain bolt threads (the hex bolt).

(5) The oil filter bolt torque specs are 7.2 ft-lbs (86 in-lbs) in my '01 426 manual. Again always use a GOOD torque wrench and know YOUR torque specs.

(6) Now you are ready to fill'er up. I put a small funnel in the filler opening (above the gas tank) and pour 1500 cc (about 1.6 qt) in without filter change or 1600 cc (about 1.7 qt) with filter change on my bike. Pour in the last few 100 cc relatively slowly. I have had the filler opening overflow and dump oil all down the frame more than one time. I have found that the first quart (946 cc) can go in pretty fast. Then if you wait for 5-10 minutes or so the last 500-600 cc won't have as much tendency to overflow.

(7) Check the level after you run the engine for about 3 minutes (you can put a fan in front of the radiators if you are worried about overheating). Just check it within 30 seconds of shutting the engine off . Don't screw the dipstick in, just place it in and pull it out.


What Oil To Use
=====================
What oil to use is a frequently visited topic on TT. Do a search using the term "what oil" or "oil change" and you will have enough reading to last you through the winter.

I use Mobil 1 15-50 (in the red cap) from Wal-Mart. Yamalube 4 /4R are also safe to use. As outlined in the manual you really only need to be certain that you use a "non-energy conserving" oil so that friction modifiers don't mess with your clutch. I have seen TTers using Amsoil, BelRay, Castrol, Motul, Golden Spectro, etc.

Just be sure that you don't use a semi- or full synthetic until the rings are seated and the engine is well broken in - use a high quality non-synthetic oil for break-in then switch to synthetic if you like. I sleep better using the synthetic oils.

This is a good link for oils ==> http://www.yft.org/t...r/tech/oil.htm.





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