First time valve adjustment, a bit punchy..


12 replies to this topic
  • mrjata

Posted March 09, 2016 - 09:56 PM

#1

Got the latest project a 09 yz450f and need to run the valves.  I have watched several videos, love youtube.  I am not new to valve adjustments but one thing has me punchy.  I am scared that I will drop a shim, or something else down inside the motor.  Is there a trick you guys use to avoid this?  All I can think of is stuffing rags or paper towels in all the holes.  Magnets are great and I use a bunch of them, will here too.

 

Hour meter on order soon.  Ebay for the meter and shim kit?  anywhere have a better price?  Doing a fork seal replacement this weekend of I can get the fork caps off.  I don't want to spend $20 for a tool I will use maybe 2x ever and good for nothing else.

 

Thanks for all the input!!



  • Slow and Jerky

Posted March 10, 2016 - 05:00 AM

#2

I use a magnet to pull the buckets out, normally the shim will stick to the underside of the bucket.  Check out  https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com foryour parts, they generally have really good prices and you get your parts fast. Unlike eBay where you may get it cheaper, but rarely will they arrive faster than Rocky Mtn.



  • Gplyley222

Posted March 10, 2016 - 05:46 AM

#3

I always put a clean rag over any openings and use a small magnet, never had a problem with dropping anything in the motor. Spend the 20 bucks on the right tool to do the job. Nothing worse than getting a used bike that someone was to cheap to spend 20 bucks to do the job right, you can always re sell it to someone in need of one.

  • cpetz24

Posted March 10, 2016 - 05:47 AM

#4

Unless you drop the shim down through the tunnel where the cam chain comes up you shouldn't have a path into the motor to drop it. Worst case it falls out and lands on top of the cylinder head.   Just make sure that you are slow and methodical when pulling the buckets out.  You'll be looking for the shim, so just make sure you don't make any sudden moves when you pull the bucket out.  

 

And yes, normally the shim will stick to the bucket.  



  • mrjata

Posted March 10, 2016 - 07:54 AM

#5

I always put a clean rag over any openings and use a small magnet, never had a problem with dropping anything in the motor. Spend the 20 bucks on the right tool to do the job. Nothing worse than getting a used bike that someone was to cheap to spend 20 bucks to do the job right, you can always re sell it to someone in need of one.

Oh, I know you are right, just chaps me to do it.  I know the inner tight wad in me should do the right thing.  I guess it will work out in the end.



  • RockerYZWR

Posted March 11, 2016 - 04:43 AM

#6

https://www.rockymou...Fork-Cap-Wrench

It is $20, like you said. It'll pay itself off the first time you use it and the only right way to do forks is with the right tools. There are few things more unforgivable than gouging up fork parts with the wrong tools. Beyond well worth it.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • UncleLuke

Posted March 11, 2016 - 08:37 AM

#7

Punchy?

 

Individual shims are like $4 where the kit is like $75. Why would you think about ordering shims when you haven't even checked?

 

Chances are the valves are still in spec.

 

I have had a few of those $10 hour meters stop working and some last long, your gamble.



  • mrjata

Posted March 16, 2016 - 04:40 PM

#8

Checked valves today.  Metric feeler gauge-$5, shop manual $20, good advice from Thumper Talk, no valve adjustment needed, at the low end of spec. NO ADJUSTMENT NEEDED- PRICELESS!!

 

Panic averted.  Not to get a good hour meter.  How is this one??

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Almost ready to ride.  Need a tire, nothing fancy.  Who has the cheapest tires??  Shopping Ebay 120/90-19.  Liking the VEE tires.



  • UncleLuke

Posted March 17, 2016 - 05:19 AM

#9

Checked valves today.  Metric feeler gauge-$5, shop manual $20, good advice from Thumper Talk, no valve adjustment needed, at the low end of spec. NO ADJUSTMENT NEEDED- PRICELESS!!

 

Panic averted.  Not to get a good hour meter.  How is this one??

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Almost ready to ride.  Need a tire, nothing fancy.  Who has the cheapest tires??  Shopping Ebay 120/90-19.  Liking the VEE tires.

 

 

The Hardline hour meters are the best quality 

 

A 120/90-19 will push in corners more than a 110/90-19. I like the MX52 for the rear



  • cpetz24

Posted March 17, 2016 - 09:33 AM

#10

Almost ready to ride.  Need a tire, nothing fancy.  Who has the cheapest tires??  Shopping Ebay 120/90-19.  Liking the VEE tires.

 

I don't know where in Missouri you are, but i'm in the southwest corner and ride a lot of rock (Missouri Loam).  Below are the tires I like and why I like them.  

 

Currently I'm running a Sedona 887 110/100-19 with the tubliss system at 4 psi ($65-$75).  The tire has an extremely hard 4 ply side wall and a very stiff tread casing, which doesn't roll, but it also doesn't flex as much as I would like.  Still not convinced I like this one so you're on your own for this.  

 

Rear Tires: 

For racing 2-3 races with good grip but will go away pretty quick. 

Bridgestone M404 ($75-$85)

Dunlop AT81 RC  ($80-$90)

 

For something that will last and have good bite but doesn't cost much: 

Sedona 907 ($65-$75) 

 

Tires I don't like 

MX71 - They're the worst tire I've ever used

Vee Rubber GNCC (Takee) -  Tall knobs, lots of roll, and they wear out quick.

 

Front Tires: (both of these have good wear and I really like them) 

Bridgestone M203 

Bridgestone M59

 

Don't skimp on the front tire.  If there's something that can put your face in the dirt faster than anything it is a crappy front tire.  



  • mrjata

Posted March 17, 2016 - 12:33 PM

#11

I don't know where in Missouri you are, but i'm in the southwest corner and ride a lot of rock (Missouri Loam).  Below are the tires I like and why I like them.  

 

Currently I'm running a Sedona 887 110/100-19 with the tubliss system at 4 psi ($65-$75).  The tire has an extremely hard 4 ply side wall and a very stiff tread casing, which doesn't roll, but it also doesn't flex as much as I would like.  Still not convinced I like this one so you're on your own for this.  

 

Rear Tires: 

For racing 2-3 races with good grip but will go away pretty quick. 

Bridgestone M404 ($75-$85)

Dunlop AT81 RC  ($80-$90)

 

For something that will last and have good bite but doesn't cost much: 

Sedona 907 ($65-$75) 

 

Tires I don't like 

MX71 - They're the worst tire I've ever used

Vee Rubber GNCC (Takee) -  Tall knobs, lots of roll, and they wear out quick.

 

Front Tires: (both of these have good wear and I really like them) 

Bridgestone M203 

Bridgestone M59

 

Don't skimp on the front tire.  If there's something that can put your face in the dirt faster than anything it is a crappy front tire.  

Good ideas, will sway my thinking too.  I am in the NW corner of the state.  30 min from Iowa, Kansas or Nebraska.  I ride mostly loose dirt, sand to clay.  Not many rocky areas for me.



  • poppa

Posted March 17, 2016 - 07:51 PM

#12

you must be close to Maryville?



  • mrjata

Posted March 17, 2016 - 08:08 PM

#13

YA, 30 miles south of Maryville.  Knobby Hill is 4 mi south of me and never been on the track.







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