2014 YZ450F winter build suggestions


12 replies to this topic
  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 10:28 AM

#1

After owning my bike for 2.5 years now I am tearing it down to clean and do some more modifications too it. When I got the bike I hated the handling. The bike felt heavy and never did what I wanted it too do as I ride mostly rough sand tracks. Here is a picture of my bike (yes very bland) and a list of mods that I have done so far. 

11231029_435414256628750_321311592870843

 

Mods so far:

.47 Kg Front springs (250f)

5.7 Kg Rear spring  (250f)

JGR Lowering Link

Ride Engineering Tripple Tree

FMF 4.1 Aluminum Slip on

Pretty sprocket and gold chain with stock gearing

2015 Engine mounts

Michelin Sand tire in the rear

 

The bike I feel handles fairly decent now (although its been progressively modified with those parts so its hard to tell). I am willing to drop some decent coin on the bike, concentrating on making it handle better before cosmetics. I don't really plan on doing any engine work as its has somewhat  low hours (40ish) and 450 has plenty of power. 

 

So my plans so far are:

Full titanium exhaust FMF (already have)

Ride engineering steering dampener

ODI flex bars

Michelin sand tire in the front

Pro wheels (already have)

 

Other things I would consider:

Radiator lowering kit

Big brake kit

Suspension valving

Adjustable sub frame

Gas Tank foam

Different gearing

Step seat

 

I also have (1) .45kg fork spring (would need to order another one) but I now weigh between 185lbs and 190lbs so I feel like that may be too soft. I am open to any other parts to help make the bike better or any back yard tricks for it. Along with the performance parts I plan to get parts anodized/powerdercoated and new graphics. 

 

 



  • Monk

Posted January 28, 2016 - 11:08 AM

#2

Suspension and OS rotor would have been first...

Injectioneering Throttle Body mod should be considered.

You have a lot of stuff I would consider "fluff". You added all these great parts with little idea of what they are doing or your trying to achieve...

  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 11:33 AM

#3

Most of the stuff I have added is to help make this stupid thing turn lol. I have added things other people have recomended on the forums ( triple tree, lowering link, softer suspension). I wouldn't consider it all "fluff".

  • UncleLuke

Posted January 28, 2016 - 11:50 AM

#4

Most of the stuff I have added is to help make this stupid thing turn lol. I have added things other people have recomended on the forums ( triple tree, lowering link, softer suspension). I wouldn't consider it all "fluff".

 

You have a sand rear tire and a hard pack front tire installed but you are calling your bike stupid for not turning well  :facepalm:



  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 11:57 AM

#5

Yeah I know I should of done a front tire along time ago.

As far as brakes I am looking into retrofitting a ktm brembo setup with a oversized front rotor. Not sure if it's possible but with an oversize rotor should allow room for a adapter bracket.

Also to be fair I only raced once last year in C-class. This year I plan to race a lot more so I'm putting a lot more effort into my bike setup and fitness. I actually wanna win and going to try my hardest to do so.

Edited by jc6711, January 28, 2016 - 12:02 PM.


  • GHILL28

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:16 PM

#6

You're already too soft on springs for sand riding honestly.  Leave them stock and get the shock lowered a tad internally.  Get the shock rebound valving slowed a bit too.  Don't mess with the link. 

 

The fork probably works great for sand riding actually in stock form.  Put the rebound at 8 on the fork to get some more stick through corners.   

 

Also the weight distribution and "feel" on this generation of YZF is REALLY sensitive to the rear axle position.  Centered (stock setting) is best for me - good, effortless cornering and dead stable at speed.  One tick forward or back and it starts leaning funny.

 

Tank foam helps a ton with a big 3g tank.  Not sure I'd use it for a 2g tank.



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  • Monk

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:20 PM

#7

Most of the stuff I have added is to help make this stupid thing turn lol. I have added things other people have recomended on the forums ( triple tree, lowering link, softer suspension). I wouldn't consider it all "fluff".


All those things work in conjunction with testing. 40hrs is not a lot of time and because you change things at such a rapid rate, your losing the base settings. I've done this with other bikes. You chase and chase but instead of working with the basics you get $1000s of dollars behind and nowhere ahead.

I imagine you ride for a 8hrs, throw some triples on... ride for 8 more, then throw a lowering link on etc etc. Suspension work, testing and an oversized front brake would have done all that and more for considerably less money.

  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:33 PM

#8

All those things work in conjunction with testing. 40hrs is not a lot of time and because you change things at such a rapid rate, your losing the base settings. I've done this with other bikes. You chase and chase but instead of working with the basics you get $1000s of dollars behind and nowhere ahead.

I imagine you ride for a 8hrs, throw some triples on... ride for 8 more, then throw a lowering link on etc etc. Suspension work, testing and an oversized front brake would have done all that and more for considerably less money.

 

Honestly thats probably how it went though. I probably road the bike stock for 20+hrs. Then came suspension, then JGR link, then the tripple clamps. I did notice little improvements each time I added something. I can agree with you that you should add one part at a time. Get it dialed in, then add another part. But since I got all the big ones out of the way already I don't see why I am going to need a whole new setup and testing if I had a radiator lowering kit. 

 

I plan on riding during the week this year. We have a somewhat local track that is sandy and good for testing. So I will be working on bike settings a lot more rather then just guessing here and there and seeing what effects what.



  • Monk

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:36 PM

#9

Honestly thats probably how it went though. I probably road the bike stock for 20+hrs. Then came suspension, then JGR link, then the tripple clamps. I did notice little improvements each time I added something. I can agree with you that you should add one part at a time. Get it dialed in, then add another part. But since I got all the big ones out of the way already I don't see why I am going to need a whole new setup and testing if I had a radiator lowering kit.

I plan on riding during the week this year. We have a somewhat local track that is sandy and good for testing. So I will be working on bike settings a lot more rather then just guessing here and there and seeing what effects what.


Your bike doesn't turn with all the part...

I don't have all the big ones, my bike turns excellent...

  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:37 PM

#10

You're already too soft on springs for sand riding honestly.  Leave them stock and get the shock lowered a tad internally.  Get the shock rebound valving slowed a bit too.  Don't mess with the link. 

 

The fork probably works great for sand riding actually in stock form.  Put the rebound at 8 on the fork to get some more stick through corners.   

 

Also the weight distribution and "feel" on this generation of YZF is REALLY sensitive to the rear axle position.  Centered (stock setting) is best for me - good, effortless cornering and dead stable at speed.  One tick forward or back and it starts leaning funny.

 

Tank foam helps a ton with a big 3g tank.  Not sure I'd use it for a 2g tank.

 

I always felt I needed softer suspension in the sand. I have made this comparison before. I also have a 1994 KX125, with old worn tires and stock extremely worn and soft suspension. The bike is an absolute blast to ride in the sand. You can pretty much sit down the whole time riding it (also has like 3in of seat foam lol) It goes where ever you want it to go, no fighting, and corners amazingly. All it needs is some more power. 



  • GHILL28

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:50 PM

#11

Is it soft in springrate?  Or soft in valving?  Get some numbers to compare if you want to replicate it, otherwise you're chasing your tail.  Springrates, sag numbers, valving.

 

If it's old, there's probably no charge left in the shock.  It'll feel like a pillow in sand, then foam and fade fast.  To test, get an MTB shock pump and just check the pressure, and put it back to 145psi or so just to try it and see if it feels the same.



  • jc6711

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:56 PM

#12

Is it soft in springrate?  Or soft in valving?  Get some numbers to compare if you want to replicate it, otherwise you're chasing your tail.  Springrates, sag numbers, valving.

 

If it's old, there's probably no charge left in the shock.  It'll feel like a pillow in sand, then foam and fade fast.  To test, get an MTB shock pump and just check the pressure, and put it back to 145psi or so just to try it and see if it feels the same.

 

I have stock valving and slightly softer spring rates then stock. I don't think my shock on the YZ450f is leaking at all. Sag is around 105-110. My next thing was too look into valving the suspension. 



  • GHILL28

Posted January 28, 2016 - 12:57 PM

#13

I have stock valving and slightly softer spring rates then stock. I don't think my shock on the YZ450f is leaking at all. Sag is around 105-110. My next thing was too look into valving the suspension. 

 

I meant on the older bike that you were comparing it to.







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