426F Diet Plan
Posted March 08, 2002 - 03:30 PM
Thanks for any advice!!!
Posted March 08, 2002 - 04:08 PM
Posted March 08, 2002 - 04:13 PM
This is a contradiction and not possible, it will cost you big $$ to reduce weight. IMHO not worth it, concentrate on better conditioning, riding technique, and fresh rubber. Also for moto, only put enough gas in to finish a race. Fuel weighs a lot and it's up high.
Quit giving YOURSELF beer! LOL
Posted March 08, 2002 - 04:31 PM
Posted March 08, 2002 - 06:06 PM
Thanks to everybody....so far. Maybe someone has a diet for MY BIKE. LOL
Posted March 09, 2002 - 03:04 PM
Titamium fasteners, Dubach's wet sump, carbon fiber parts, airbox, etc..
There have been a couple of posts where I remember seeing a wish list of weight reducing items. Do a search and check it out. Later
Posted March 10, 2002 - 05:18 AM
MAking Friends everywhere I go.
Also back off on the Cheetos and Beer, start a traing program
Posted March 10, 2002 - 05:25 PM
Ti Shock spring 2 lbs
Wet Sump conversion 2-3 lbs
DSP Ti pipe 2 lbs
Ti bolts and axles 1-2 lbs
These are the only ones that make much difference without removing functionality from the bike. You have to watch what aftermarket goodies you use as well.
nothing cheap except the Wet Sump previously mentioned, which probably isn't a great idea unless you have your own mechanic to do all the maintenance. If you have a day job keep the extra liter of oil.
Next tribal council I'm votin' for Ego
Posted March 10, 2002 - 10:48 PM
Weight reduction is done at a cost. One of either reliability or dollars, or both.
The big stuff is air box, wet-sump, ti/carbon exhaust, ti spring, bolts and axles.
The ti spring is a good investment since they never wear out and can be transferred to nearly any late model bike of similar weight.
Mag hubs offer the least return, but it's an option.
Carbon fiber forks guards are also a great idea since they reduce both overall and sprung weight.
In addition to this, here's what I've done. I'll note what's common on the factory bikes.
Removed the fork guard guides, (common).
Removed the front brake line cover, (common).
Removed the front and rear rim locks (use rim screws).
Removed the valving in the gas cap, (common).
Trim the outer edge of the front and rear fender.
Trim the inner edge of the rear fender.
Removed the rear brake cover, (common).
Removed the rear caliper cover, (common).
Removed the metal tabs on the rear caliper holder that held on the covers, (common, or replace with mag unit).
Removed the rear brake reservoir.
Removed rear master cylinder guard, (common).
Replaced the metal chain guard with a carbon unit, (common).
Replaced the skip plate with a plastic one, (build it yourself). Zip tie to attach.
Zip tied the connection from air box to carb.
Removed front chain guard, (common).
Removed valve stem nuts.
Run less fuel.
Removed throttle cable cover.
Removed the steel end-cap on the e-series exhaust in spark arrestor mode.
Ti foot pegs (besides, the fatter stance is well worth it and if you shop around, you can get them for a great price). Common.
Removed the front brake line route that bolts to the forks and use a traditional holder set-up. Check out the pro bikes, (common).
Run a CR router line, (common).
Removed the protective coating on the rear brake line.
Removed all rubber boots on bar mounted brake and clutch assemblies, (oddly enough, this actually keeps things cleaner). Common when using aftermarket levers.
Other than that, some riders will drill the bottom of the seat cushions, especially in the areas where you really don't apply your full weight.
And if you really wanted to, you could remove the two rear side panels. Looks funky, but have you ever felt how much these things weight?
So...as you can see, some of this stuff is a bit extreme, and you really risk reliability with some of these mods.
And of course, none of this really compares to rider skill when you want to go faster.
Probably doesn't do much for re-sale value either.
Posted March 11, 2002 - 03:53 AM
Posted March 11, 2002 - 11:13 AM
Does this mean I have drain bamage?
(thanks for the correction)
Posted March 11, 2002 - 12:50 PM
Posted March 11, 2002 - 02:29 PM
Were would you all be 20 years ago, Oh my 40 incher (Thats 750cc) is to heavy oh my, the BSA Goldstar shakes the bleeping wee-wee off. Oh my I only have 3 inches of Travel in my DT1. Cheeza Lauiza, stop whinning, next your gonna want cheeze with that whine. Do me a favour go ride sombodies XL350 or a 1996 or older XR, then come back and tell me that Fat Lady is to much to Handle.
GAD I am Surrounded by debri, I knew I had to Rise above it all , or Drown in My Own ****
Posted March 11, 2002 - 05:15 PM
Posted March 11, 2002 - 09:33 PM
There is something to be said for an attitude that looks for news ways of doing things.
Yes, back in the 80's I rode everything from RMs, XTs, TTs, yellow YZs, and if you go back even further, even a Hodaka, Indian, XR75 and a few things powered by lawn mower motors. All heavily modified for more suspension, more power, and less weight. Many of these bikes I carried up-hill, both ways, in the snow, on my way to school.
However, unless you ride the YZF for the purpose of fetching firewood, it's worth it to throw a few bucks at it, get creative and learn a little.
Besides, it gives us something to talk about.
Posted March 12, 2002 - 08:14 AM
Posted March 17, 2002 - 02:51 AM
Posted March 17, 2002 - 05:06 PM
dirtdad for attorney general...
EgoAhole for ambassador to Iraq!
Posted March 17, 2002 - 05:27 PM
[ March 17, 2002: Message edited by: dirtdad ]
yz250x vs 450 4t comparisons (preferably desert riding) needed by JakeNorthrupYZ450F
Michigan Motocross Tires by 288yz450