2016 WR450 Ride Report & Opinions

Yamaha WR450F 2012

226 replies to this topic
  • stevethe

Posted February 09, 2016 - 08:41 AM


Says the guy with the GYTR head lol. Any noticeable difference after the new head install? Do you think its worth it?


Well definitely more power everywhere. Is it worth it. It depends I believe most people would be way happy with the stock one. I got lucky and paid way less than half for a new one. List is about $2100 or so but you get a complete head with valves, shims, buckets and GYTR cams.

I could imagine a simple port job by a known person would be good and having one epoxied, flowed on a bench by the best would likely be $1,000. But there is down time to that.

  • Super_Davee

Posted February 09, 2016 - 09:32 AM


Well definitely more power everywhere. Is it worth it. It depends I believe most people would be way happy with the stock one. I got lucky and paid way less than half for a new one. List is about $2100 or so but you get a complete head with valves, shims, buckets and GYTR cams.

I could imagine a simple port job by a known person would be good and having one epoxied, flowed on a bench by the best would likely be $1,000. But there is down time to that.

Wow, you got one hell of a deal IMO. I'll have to keep my eye on the prices and see if i can get a similar deal..

 

I wonder if that head will require more frequent valve adjustments.  :thinking:



  • stevethe

Posted February 09, 2016 - 12:07 PM


Wow, you got one hell of a deal IMO. I'll have to keep my eye on the prices and see if i can get a similar deal..
 
I wonder if that head will require more frequent valve adjustments.  :thinking:


No more frequent valve adjustments as it uses all stock parts.

  • Baja trail Rider

Posted February 09, 2016 - 06:43 PM


Well definitely more power everywhere. Is it worth it. It depends I believe most people would be way happy with the stock one. I got lucky and paid way less than half for a new one. List is about $2100 or so but you get a complete head with valves, shims, buckets and GYTR cams.

I could imagine a simple port job by a known person would be good and having one epoxied, flowed on a bench by the best would likely be $1,000. But there is down time to that.

Are we still giving fits,to the KTMs.



  • stevethe

Posted February 10, 2016 - 06:12 AM


Are we still giving fits,to the KTMs.

 

Yup :devil:



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 10, 2016 - 06:30 AM


Are we still giving fits,to the KTMs.

 

Try and find someone who will even port a KTM head..........



  • Baja trail Rider

Posted February 10, 2016 - 08:35 AM


Try and find someone who will even port a KTM head..........

HAAAAA After anyone got one that lives here.They dont waist time on porting,They get the Wr.



  • 2Speed

Posted February 10, 2016 - 10:37 AM


One observation on my '16. I can't find neutral to save my life. Now I've been riding dirt bikes for almost 40 years (got my Honda MR50 when I was 5  ;) ) so I know how to shift gears. Doesn't matter if it's running or off, hot or cold, it just doesn't want to go into neutral. Only have about 3 hours on it so far, so I'm thinking it just needs a while more to break in. My 2009 WR had about 20 hours on it when I bought it, and I never had a problem with neutral.

 

It does feel a little like the clutch isn't fully disengaging at full pull, so I'm going to look at adjusting it a bit to see if that helps. I saw from a quick search here on TT that is seems like a fairly common problem with the '11 - '15 model WRs as well, when they are  new.



  • Super_Davee

Posted February 10, 2016 - 12:46 PM


One observation on my '16. I can't find neutral to save my life. Now I've been riding dirt bikes for almost 40 years (got my Honda MR50 when I was 5  ;) ) so I know how to shift gears. Doesn't matter if it's running or off, hot or cold, it just doesn't want to go into neutral. Only have about 3 hours on it so far, so I'm thinking it just needs a while more to break in. My 2009 WR had about 20 hours on it when I bought it, and I never had a problem with neutral.

 

It does feel a little like the clutch isn't fully disengaging at full pull, so I'm going to look at adjusting it a bit to see if that helps. I saw from a quick search here on TT that is seems like a fairly common problem with the '11 - '15 model WRs as well, when they are  new.

I was able to ride mine around for about 10 minutes last night, and noticed the same issue when trying to find neutral. I dont have as much riding experience as you, but i know my way around a bike. 

 

My clutch seems to engage earlier than it should. I suppose mine needs adjustment as well. I'll be doing the first oil change tonight. Did you pull the screen when you did yours? Have you read about some sort of plug that you loosen after an oil change while the engine is running, and your supposed to loosen it until oil seeps out? Seems odd to me. Drain the oil, change the filter, clean the screen fill with the recommended capacity, and rip right?! I dont understand the point behind this drain orifice, unless it burps the system somehow?



  • stevethe

Posted February 10, 2016 - 12:47 PM


One observation on my '16. I can't find neutral to save my life. Now I've been riding dirt bikes for almost 40 years (got my Honda MR50 when I was 5  ;) ) so I know how to shift gears. Doesn't matter if it's running or off, hot or cold, it just doesn't want to go into neutral. Only have about 3 hours on it so far, so I'm thinking it just needs a while more to break in. My 2009 WR had about 20 hours on it when I bought it, and I never had a problem with neutral.
 
It does feel a little like the clutch isn't fully disengaging at full pull, so I'm going to look at adjusting it a bit to see if that helps. I saw from a quick search here on TT that is seems like a fairly common problem with the '11 - '15 model WRs as well, when they are  new.


Yea maybe adjust the free play out of the lever. It only needs a little bit.

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  • RMK800

Posted February 10, 2016 - 05:49 PM


Yea maybe adjust the free play out of the lever. It only needs a little bit.


That's exactly what I did.

  • GASKICKER

Posted February 10, 2016 - 08:16 PM


I was able to ride mine around for about 10 minutes last night, and noticed the same issue when trying to find neutral. I dont have as much riding experience as you, but i know my way around a bike. 

 

My clutch seems to engage earlier than it should. I suppose mine needs adjustment as well. I'll be doing the first oil change tonight. Did you pull the screen when you did yours? Have you read about some sort of plug that you loosen after an oil change while the engine is running, and your supposed to loosen it until oil seeps out? Seems odd to me. Drain the oil, change the filter, clean the screen fill with the recommended capacity, and rip right?! I dont understand the point behind this drain orifice, unless it burps the system somehow?

That weep hole is to make sure you have installed your oil filter properly, the manual does a fantastic job of explaining this.



  • Super_Davee

Posted February 11, 2016 - 05:57 AM


That weep hole is to make sure you have installed your oil filter properly, the manual does a fantastic job of explaining this.

After reading it again, it states its to check the oil pressure. The Japanese tend to use English words slightly out of context, so I had to read it slowly a few times lol.



  • stevethe

Posted February 11, 2016 - 11:40 AM


I don't imagine you have to pull the screen much. There is a oil filter in the bike. I just drain mine and fill it back up. I think I will do the filter every two or three oil changes.
The plug in the head is to check for oil pressure. Like if you suspect something is wrong. I won't be touching it. I change my oil often.

  • Super_Davee

Posted February 11, 2016 - 12:12 PM


I don't imagine you have to pull the screen much. There is a oil filter in the bike. I just drain mine and fill it back up. I think I will do the filter every two or three oil changes.
The plug in the head is to check for oil pressure. Like if you suspect something is wrong. I won't be touching it. I change my oil often.

 

Gotcha. It wasn't clear to me if checking the oil pressure should be a standard procedure during the oil change or not. I'm OCD about oil changes, and tend to change the oil pretty often. I did pull my screen last night, and there was some debris stuck inside. It mainly looked like excess petroleum grease used to lubricate the o-ring on the screen. I found a very very small piece of what looked like gasket material, but surprisingly i didn't see any metal shavings to note. 

 

Waiting on my YZ slip on, and GYTR tuner.



  • stevethe

Posted February 11, 2016 - 12:52 PM


Gotcha. It wasn't clear to me if checking the oil pressure should be a standard procedure during the oil change or not. I'm OCD about oil changes, and tend to change the oil pretty often. I did pull my screen last night, and there was some debris stuck inside. It mainly looked like excess petroleum grease used to lubricate the o-ring on the screen. I found a very very small piece of what looked like gasket material, but surprisingly i didn't see any metal shavings to note. 
 
Waiting on my YZ slip on, and GYTR tuner.


No I don't believe you need to check for oil pressure. Unless you put a new pump in or the bike eat something.

  • Motodisiac

Posted February 11, 2016 - 09:16 PM


But from what I understand there is a weep hole used for the purpose of checking oil level. Fill the bike, then pull the bolt and wait until excess oil drips out. This way it's always at the same correct level and you don't worry about the level in sight glass.

  • RMK800

Posted February 12, 2016 - 04:36 AM


But from what I understand there is a weep hole used for the purpose of checking oil level. Fill the bike, then pull the bolt and wait until excess oil drips out. This way it's always at the same correct level and you don't worry about the level in sight glass.


There is two bolts. One to check oil pressure and the other to check oil level. They have been talking about the bolt on the motor, not down by the oil view glass.

  • Super_Davee

Posted February 12, 2016 - 06:08 AM


But from what I understand there is a weep hole used for the purpose of checking oil level. Fill the bike, then pull the bolt and wait until excess oil drips out. This way it's always at the same correct level and you don't worry about the level in sight glass.

 

I think its great that they put the bolt by the sight glass you can remove to drain the excess oil. I overfilled the bike just a tad when i did my oil change, and i was relieved that i could just remove that bolt, instead of removing the drain plug.



  • stevethe

Posted February 12, 2016 - 06:31 AM


I think its great that they put the bolt by the sight glass you can remove to drain the excess oil. I overfilled the bike just a tad when i did my oil change, and i was relieved that i could just remove that bolt, instead of removing the drain plug.


The last two oil changes I overfilled it. It says it takes about 3/4 of a quart on an oil change? The first time I put a quart in it this time I put less than a quart in it. I am way over the sight glass. However it hasn't puked out yet even with all those hill climbs. I haven't seen any bad results. I feel guilty just adding over half a quart on a oil change.
Maybe I need to get use to it or use the oil level screw next to the sight glass. The 07-11 always took a quart any more and they would puke out oil from the breather tube.





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