2011 YZ450F Hot Start Problems

Miscellaneous Motocross Yamaha YZ450F 2011 United States Arizona Arizona Cycle Park

26 replies to this topic
  • billygildark5007

Posted March 07, 2016 - 06:11 PM

#21

[quote name="NW Briff" post="12966929" timestamp="1457385890"]Sorry I must respectfully disagree.. in the monitor page of my gytr it shows 5 things. Engine rpm, two temperature sensors. Inches of vacuum and throttle position.

Well technically I think we're both halfway correct sir. One example is the throttle position. On the gytr it will always show 0*at throttle closed, but throttle closed is not true 0* for the ecu. the tps is set to 12-21* and can't be set correctly with the gytr. The fi diagnostic tool is needed.
Maybe I'm on the wrong train of thought but I only use the gytr for mapping and idle speed.
But I did reset my baseline co level to +5 so your correct in that my bike is a little rich.

  • brandonkranich

Posted March 07, 2016 - 07:17 PM

#22

The bike is now running well. Starts well cold. Starts between 1-3 kicks when warm. Also I did notice in a couple situation cracking the throttle and stroking the bike through a couple times before kicking at TDC did help in some situations.
I must admit after installing the freshly machined head and parts I had not hooked up a sensor at the front of the head. After purchasing a tuner and bring it home thinking that was the plug in port for the sensor, I found my error! After making the connection the bike started much much better. Since I now have a tuner I have been playing around with different maps and have found that has made starting somewhat easier as well. Uploaded the woods map and it improved low rpm power and stalling as well.
I believe the hot starting problems that I had initially were attributed to the valves and that has now been corrected.
Bike is now running well, thanks for all the input.

  • NW Briff

Posted March 07, 2016 - 07:21 PM

#23

[quote name="billygildark5007" post="12967586" timestamp="1457403098"]

[quote name="NW Briff" post="12966929" timestamp="1457385890"]Sorry I must respectfully disagree.. in the monitor page of my gytr it shows 5 things. Engine rpm, two temperature sensors. Inches of vacuum and throttle position.

Well technically I think we're both halfway correct sir. One example is the throttle position. On the gytr it will always show 0*at throttle closed, but throttle closed is not true 0* for the ecu. the tps is set to 12-21* and can't be set correctly with the gytr. The fi diagnostic tool is needed.
Maybe I'm on the wrong train of thought but I only use the gytr for mapping and idle speed.
But I did reset my baseline co level to +5 so your correct in that my bike is a little rich.[/quote]

Interesting info. The purpose of my post was to show the OP That he could infact make sure hes not having temp sender or tps malfunctions without buying another piece of equipment.
I understand that the gytr only shows throttle change from "0". But Unless the tps was removed or replaced there should be no reason to recalibrate it. Correct?

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  • NW Briff

Posted March 07, 2016 - 07:55 PM

#24

Glad to see your bike is running well. It would be an interesting experiment to put your old map back in if you saved it and see how it starts with the sensor hooked up.

  • billygildark5007

Posted March 07, 2016 - 08:04 PM

#25

Not sure If the tps would change buy itself, but it's only a tiny little t25 screw holding it In place. more likely people "ripping" the TB out of the bike on disassembly moves it.
And my train of thought is the gytr will only show sensor readings, not the accuracy of those readings, just a code when their bad or wiring is. If gytr shows water temp at 160* is it really? You would need to test the coolant sensor per Manuel instructions to confirm that.
I am going to try lowering the co level and see if helps warm starts...

  • NW Briff

Posted March 07, 2016 - 08:57 PM

#26

I hear what you saying about the accuracy of what your seeing. Only way i know of to test a temp sender is with an ohm meter though.

Never had an injected bike before so i am only speaking through the experiences i have had in the last 50 or so hours of riding and tuning this bike with only a gytr tuner to use. And believe me ive gone through more batteries than i can remember.

So after researching co level i came across one of your threads. I was not aware of the ability to adjust this and am glad i was able to alleviate my problems without buying that expensive equipment.

Maybe my luck with the easy starting is from my ignition choice rather than fuel settings? I mean i acknowledge the fact the 1st block on the gytr is labeled 4000k rpm. I know it doesnt make sense but all i can do is post my experiences and what worked for me.

  • billygildark5007

Posted March 07, 2016 - 09:12 PM

#27

Sorry if we stole your thread Brandon, glad your bike is good!





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