Trying to find a 13t sprocket....


29 replies to this topic
  • xrbrp

Posted March 08, 2004 - 10:45 PM

#21

Gearing 13/50 13/48 14/48 15/48 16/48
MPH 1st....31.....33.....35.....38.....40
MPH 2nd...45.....47.....51.....55.....58
MPH 3rd....58.....60.....65.....70.....74
MPH 4th....72.....75.....81.....87.....93
MPH 5th....86.....90.....97....104....111

Gearing 14/50 14/51 14/52 14/53 14/54
MPH 1st....34.....33.....32.....32.....31
MPH 2nd...49.....48.....47.....46.....45
MPH 3rd....62.....61.....60.....59.....58
MPH 4th....78.....76.....75.....73.....72
MPH 5th....93.....91.....89.....88.....86




The First gear still seems too high based on these numbers. What would a 13/52-3-4 do?

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2004 - 07:33 AM

#22

What would a 13/52-3-4 do?



Gearing 13/52 13/53 13/54
MPH 1st....30.....29.....29
MPH 2nd....44.....43.....42
MPH 3rd....56.....55.....54
MPH 4th....70.....68.....67
MPH 5th....83.....82.....80

  • J_T

Posted March 09, 2004 - 08:04 AM

#23

Wow! someone wants to idle up the wall!

I have the 13/50 and in tight woods it was real torquey...not a bad thing just took some getting used to...b/c where normally I'd gas it and tear off but with the 13/50 it break the rear loose and I would sit there and spin for days...had to approach things a little calmer b/c slick turns and too soon of gas would spin it out from underneith you...and a particular hill that has some loose rock my traditional approach of tearing up it meant my rear was spinning the entire time and b/c of never having great traction it kept spinning into the ruts on either side requiring me to stop and go back down...again no big problem just took some adjustment of my riding style and technique that I wasn't ready for...I imagine that with a 13/51-54 just set your idle up and you won't need gas!

I'm not nocking it you may need it but it'd be over kill for my woods riding...just a side note though...13/50 was tight with stock 110-link chain. The gearing calc says that estimates that with 13/51 would need ~112-link at shortested distance and 13/52 need 114-link at shortest distance?

My gearing calc is giving a little higher speeds that what was posted here so I may have accidently changed something and saved it so these are rough estimates.

JT

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2004 - 08:31 AM

#24

My gearing calc is giving a little higher speeds that what was posted here so I may have accidently changed something and saved it so these are rough estimates.



Mine are rough too, but close enough for getting an idea of what to expect...approximately. The actual tire size also plays a role in this and the variations in tire pressures do to and let's not forget that the rear tire grows larger with speed, so there's no way for me to accurately predict something that applies to everyone without getting into the nitty gritty of an individual bike, but it's close enough so that a valid comparison can be made to see how these sprocket combos compare against each another. Your results in all likelyhood are probably as good as mine or possibly even better if you've tailored your tire size to your bike.

  • xrbrp

Posted March 09, 2004 - 11:25 AM

#25

13/50 it is. I am already experiencing the bike sliding out from under me on tight turns in the mud with the stock sprockets. What a huge difference uncorking it made. My primary concern was with the first and second gears, I have to fan the clutch alot to prevent from stalling in turns. I'm going to try the 13t front first, then add the 50t rear if it won't slow down enough. Thanks for the excellent information.

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  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2004 - 11:42 AM

#26

I have to fan the clutch alot to prevent from stalling in turns.


One quick thing you might want to try with your current gearing is to turn up your idle a little bit more to see if it minimizes your stalling in the turns. Make sure your bike is fully warmed up and then just adjust the idle based on your listening skills. If you've got an inductive clamp on type tach you can more accurately verify that your idle is within spec, but make sure your engine is fully warmed up when checking the idle. If your idle is few hundred RPM below spec, then the bike will more easily stall in the turns. I use a simple tach/hour meter for setting my idle and the hour meter comes in handy for maintenance.

I bought mine from Jack Small engines for $25 shipped each when they were selling them on eBay about a year or so ago, but I haven't seen them run any specials for a while and now they want $39...ouch!
http://www.jackssmal.../hour_meter.cfm

Here's what looks like the same meter from Heritage MX for $30 shipped :)
http://www.heritagem...08_discount.htm

  • irondude

Posted March 09, 2004 - 03:44 PM

#27

Sr. Qadson-
do you have that for 15-47 and 15-45?
thats what the Baja racers use....just curious

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2004 - 04:44 PM

#28

Naw...I'm just rid'n for fun and not racing. I've been running 13/48 up until mid last year or so and then switched back to 14/48. I'm content with the stock gearing for my simple riding needs.

  • irondude

Posted March 09, 2004 - 05:08 PM

#29

i meant the mph chart for 15/45-47... :)

  • qadsan

Posted March 09, 2004 - 07:59 PM

#30

i meant the mph chart for 15/45-47... :)




Oh :D

Here it is... (approximate for a typical 120/80/18 tire)
All data assumes a max speed of 8,000 RPM

Gearing 15/45 15/46 15/47
MPH 1st....40.....39.....38
MPH 2nd....58.....57.....56
MPH 3rd....74.....73.....71
MPH 4th....93.....91.....89
MPH 5th...111....108....106

(approximate for a typical 140/80/18 tire)

Gearing 15/45 15/46 15/47
MPH 1st....42.....41.....40
MPH 2nd....61.....60.....58
MPH 3rd....78.....76.....74
MPH 4th....97.....95.....93
MPH 5th...116....114....111





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