WR 426 stored won't start



11 replies to this topic
  • nateb1583

Posted December 29, 2015 - 11:13 PM

#1

I got a good deal on an 01 WR426 from a friend of a family member. From what I understand, it was getting tough to start so the guy bought a newer bike with an electric start and this one sat in the garage for a few years. When I picked it up, we were able to get it started (after a whole lot of kicking) with some starter fluid but it would not stay running. Over the next few weeks I took it apart and found the valves out of spec so I shimmed them (first time for me). Still wouldn't start so I pulled the carb, tore it apart and soaked everything in mineral spirits for about 24hrs. It was caked in green crust so I also did some scrubbing before i reassembled. I had to break free the shock on the float needle and scrubbed free anything I found that needed it. Replaced the plug and I still cannot get it to start. When I kick it over I get backfire from the carb but I kick till my leg is sore and can't get anything more than that. Any ideas where I should go from here?

Edited by nateb1583, December 29, 2015 - 11:33 PM.


  • Rboast

Posted December 30, 2015 - 04:23 AM

#2

When you took the carb apart did you pull the Jets out of it and clean them as well as just soak them? My instant guess is that you have plugged jets. They have to be pulled out soaked in carb cleaner then make sure they are not plugged. If you are impatient you can go purchase new jets for the bike. If it ran with starter fluid... she just isn't getting gas.

  • nateb1583

Posted December 30, 2015 - 12:32 PM

#3

We had it started before I did the valves. I will tear down the carb again and do some more digging. I'm pretty sure I did the valves correctly but just to be sure, do you know if the chain position in relation to cam position is important? I'm sure my cams are in the right position at tdc but don't know if I rotate the chain a link while I had it apart? Also, when checking with the feeler gauge you do not force it right? Thanks for your help.

Edited by nateb1583, December 30, 2015 - 12:37 PM.


  • Rboast

Posted December 30, 2015 - 01:18 PM

#4

Not sure about the valves being adjusted right...sorry about that but you are correct....do not force the feeler gauge.

My thought was if the bike ran with starter fluid....it should run if it's getting gas. Even if valves are adjusted slightly off. But believe me when I say I know about to make me dangerous.

  • GuyGraham

Posted January 01, 2016 - 03:00 AM

#5

Chain position on the cams isn't relevant, its the timing marks on the cams in relation to the timing mark on the rotor, visible through the little inspection plug hole on the left cover

 

It sounds like you have a plugged up pilot jet which is very common on bikes that have sat for while and not been prep'ed properly

cleaning the pilot jet effectively is very difficult.

Just buy a new pilot jet and fit it and see if it runs


Edited by GuyGraham, January 01, 2016 - 03:00 AM.


  • nateb1583

Posted January 01, 2016 - 03:08 AM

#6

Thanks Guy. I did pull the carb again and the pilot jet did indeed appear to be plugged. I read somewhere that if you boil parts in lemon juice the acidity of the juice will strip the gunk. I tried this and it seemed to work to the point where I was able to spray carb cleaner through the jets. I put it back together and tried again only to get the same results. I placed an order tonight for replacement jets. Btw, I also tried starting with starter fluid tonight but still nothing.

Edited by nateb1583, January 01, 2016 - 03:09 AM.


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  • GuyGraham

Posted January 01, 2016 - 03:36 AM

#7

As you will see, the pilot jet is very small, and unless it has been cleaned completely, any reside left in it will affect its size with the possibility the bike will still not run

Its caused by a yellow/green varnish left behind when unleaded fuel evaporates

 

Some people report the symptoms as bike that will only run on choke,and as soon as the choke is turned off the bike dies

 

Wait til you have the new pilot jet fitted so as to eliminate this cause of non-starting before moving on, as its the number 1 reason why bikes that have been stood or used infrequently have starting/running issues

 

Just re-reading you original post, it sounds like the carb is in a bad way and may have lots of other issues

You may have to get it ultrasonically cleaned, as this I have heard is effective at getting rid of the green varnish in places you can't reach with any kind of scrubbing tool


Edited by GuyGraham, January 01, 2016 - 03:39 AM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 01, 2016 - 06:53 AM

#8

If your jets are corroded, so is the carb body.

You will need to ream the passage above the pilot and inside the apump to get things to work

Use #15 fishing line and orange-oil based spray cleaner



  • masdomonkey

Posted January 03, 2016 - 01:11 AM

#9

Thanks Guy. I did pull the carb again and the pilot jet did indeed appear to be plugged. I read somewhere that if you boil parts in lemon juice the acidity of the juice will strip the gunk. I tried this and it seemed to work to the point where I was able to spray carb cleaner through the jets. I put it back together and tried again only to get the same results. I placed an order tonight for replacement jets. Btw, I also tried starting with starter fluid tonight but still nothing.

I use denatured alcohol on my carbs it gets the tarnish out of the brass fittings and does magic for a good clean carb, use fishing line yes and compressed air after, check the needle and see where its clipped as of height, check the kill switch if its stuck to "contact", get a volt meter and check if the wiring is bad anywhere between the spark plug... Another problem i had was my compression release on my wr, check if its stuck to "active", a trick to see if its sparking is plug the spark plug in and ground it to the case and kick it over with your hand to see a spark. After all of that try to kick it over, when kicking it pull comp release and kick it 7 to 8 times, then get it at tdc or alittle past then pull the throttle wid open 2 or 3 times to squirt gas into the cylinder and kick it 4-5 times, if it wants to start without the choke but not run thats good, then pull comp release again with 7 or 8 kicks AGAIN lol, and pull the choke on and try to start it at tdc or a little past with the same amount of squirts of gas, if this dont work check compression because the rings may be bad, dont use starter fluid unless for a last resort, hope this helps

-mason

  • nateb1583

Posted January 03, 2016 - 01:26 AM

#10

I do have a voltage meter but did not think to check the kill switch. I will do that in the morning. I did pull the carb though and grounded it to the motor and got spark when I cycled it by hand. I am weathering a Michigan winter so temperature may play some factor in my troubles but shouldn't be much since I had my son's xr out and running no problem today. As for the fishing line, I will keep that in mind for the future since I have new jets on the way. Ill order a carb rebuild kit pretty soon here as well. That plus a mid body seal (stretched it when I pulled it apart so it didn't seat right when putting back together).

Edited by nateb1583, January 03, 2016 - 01:27 AM.


  • nateb1583

Posted January 03, 2016 - 01:34 AM

#11

Will definitely pick up some denatured alcohol tomorrow too thank you

  • nateb1583

Posted May 23, 2016 - 05:42 PM

#12

It has been a while and I wanted to follow up with the good news that I finally did get the WR running. Now I am totally new to four strokes so I really don't know what is normal and what is not so I was hoping for a little help working the bugs out. The good part is I installed a Hot Cam's exhaust cam with the auto decomp mechanism and eliminated the decompression lever. The bike fires right up first kick now. The right side radiator had a hole in it so I also replaced that. One of the issues that I am having is when letting off from the throttle the bike still pushes hard which gave me some trouble when slowing down for corners on my first trail ride. I am not sure if this is just characteristic of four strokes, if the idle being set too high will cause this, or if it is a carb issue like being too rich or maybe the accelerator pump sticking open (if that is even possible). As I already stated, I am a total noob when it comes to four strokes so have no idea what to expect with this thing. The other main issue is with the radiator dumping coolant and the reservoir remaining full. I am hoping this just needs to be flushed and bled which I will be doing within the next few days. Any advise would be appreciated though.

 

Thanks in advance. 






 
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