Rekluse Users... How do you fine tune?


21 replies to this topic
  • Drenmaster

Posted December 25, 2015 - 06:11 AM

#1

So i am curious how you guys tune your rekluse? do you just drop it in and ride or change the spring settings? add parts like heavy wedges? 

 

I have been using a rekluse for about 4 years in 2 different bikes, first was an 09 250F EXP 2.0 with the low springs and heavy weights. 

 

I had the 2.0 in my '14 450 with heavy weights. Upgraded to the Core EXP 3.0 and added heavy weights as well.. always used medium springs in the 450.. 

 

how far did you have to adjust your clutch cable? i have always been maxed out on both bikes. I just put a motion pro cable on and it helps a little bit.. have a lot more adjustability at the lever now.



  • grayracer513

Posted December 25, 2015 - 07:42 AM

#2

I use the Z-Start Pro, but the setup is a little different than yours.   

 

I use the medium weight spring set, which controls the point at which the clutch starts to engage and release.  It idles cleanly but engages almost immediately above that.  The difference is that I used the lighter of two weight set ups available.  The problem was that the clutch would lock up too quick at low speeds in second and kill the engine.  The lighter weights slow the engagement rate and corrected that.  



  • BGoyins

Posted December 25, 2015 - 07:47 AM

#3

Ran Rekluse most of this year in 15 YZ450. Went to the lightest springs and raised the idle closer to 2100 rpm. Had to adjust it once, the gain was increasing which is opposite of what I expect with pad wear. Cable adjustment not an issue at all. Had a couple friends think the Rekluse was lame at first, but both wanted 'em for Christmas.

  • Drenmaster

Posted December 25, 2015 - 03:37 PM

#4

This is an example of the clutch cable issue i always have both on the 250 and 450. Both the inline adjuster and the perch adjuster are always maxed out to get the correct free play gain. That was a stock cable. The motion pro cable seems to help. image.jpeg

  • BGoyins

Posted December 25, 2015 - 03:52 PM

#5

This is an example of the clutch cable issue i always have both on the 250 and 450. Both the inline adjuster and the perch adjuster are always maxed out to get the correct free play gain. That was a stock cable. The motion pro cable seems to help. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

 

That just doesn't look right... it's like something is missing in the clutch stack-up, or maybe the ball is missing, or something that is requiring way too much cable slack that you're having to take up.



  • BGoyins

Posted December 25, 2015 - 04:10 PM

#6

This is an example of the clutch cable issue i always have both on the 250 and 450. Both the inline adjuster and the perch adjuster are always maxed out to get the correct free play gain. That was a stock cable. The motion pro cable seems to help. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

 

I might also add, that the clutch cable adjustment you're showing has nothing to do with the free-play gain. Free-play gain is determined by the adjustment in the clutch itself. The cable adjustment just sets the amount of lever movement before you start to disengage the clutch... exactly like a bike without the Rekluse would have.



  • Drenmaster

Posted December 25, 2015 - 04:11 PM

#7

That just doesn't look right... it's like something is missing in the clutch stack-up, or maybe the ball is missing, or something that is requiring way too much cable slack that you're having to take up.


Yea its been like that since i first used it. I have followed the instructions one step at a time and even started over a few times. But this is always the result. If something is installed wrong it has to be very minor because i have run 100s of hours this way. Friends suzuki is the same way. Wonder if that asv perch could be the culprit.

  • Drenmaster

Posted December 25, 2015 - 04:13 PM

#8

I might also add, that the clutch cable adjustment you're showing has nothing to do with the free-play gain. Free-play gain is determined by the adjustment in the clutch itself. The cable adjustment just sets the amount of lever movement before you start to disengage the clutch... exactly like a bike without the Rekluse would have.


Haha thanks for the correction. Didn't think that sounded correct. With the cable adjusted like that it lets the bike sit in gear with out taking off.

  • BGoyins

Posted December 25, 2015 - 04:28 PM

#9

Haha thanks for the correction. Didn't think that sounded correct. With the cable adjusted like that it lets the bike sit in gear with out taking off.

 

There should be no condition of clutch cable adjustment (too loose or too tight) that would allow the bike to take off in gear at idle, or else the Rekluse is not doing its job. If you can adjust your clutch cable so that the clutch starts engaging at idle, then the clutch/engine RPM is not set up correctly. I'm starting to suspect that maybe you have adjusted the clutch to work with essentially the clutch partially disengaged by the lever? With the bike at idle start taking that clutch adjustment out at the perch. If the bike begins to move (clutch is engaging) then I think we've found the problem.



  • BGoyins

Posted December 25, 2015 - 04:56 PM

#10

There should be no condition of clutch cable adjustment (too loose or too tight) that would allow the bike to take off in gear at idle, or else the Rekluse is not doing its job. If you can adjust your clutch cable so that the clutch starts engaging at idle, then the clutch/engine RPM is not set up correctly. I'm starting to suspect that maybe you have adjusted the clutch to work with essentially the clutch partially disengaged by the lever? With the bike at idle start taking that clutch adjustment out at the perch. If the bike begins to move (clutch is engaging) then I think we've found the problem.

 

Yes, the ASV perch could cause that, but if it provided normal adjustment range to the stock clutch then it would do the same for the Rekluse. And to clarify, when I say to start taking the clutch adjustment "out" with the bike at idle, I mean start threading the barrels back into the perch, shortening what you have in the picture.



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  • Drenmaster

Posted December 26, 2015 - 12:27 AM

#11

Man i might have had my bike set up all wrong this whole time. What you described is exactly whats going on. In gear at idle if i move the perch ajustment toward the perch (shortening the barrel) the bike will start to move forwards. So that is why i move it out so far. The bike will idle in gear and not move.

So what can i do to correct this issue? I have the core exp 3.0 do i need to readjust the setting on the pressure plate? Like i said i followed the instructions. Basicly hand tight. Then one full turn and 2 clicks. Man im confused haha.

  • Drenmaster

Posted December 26, 2015 - 01:56 AM

#12

I just readjusted again followed the video on the rekluse site. Made sure i had plenty of slack in my cable, did the install gap still have slack in the cable.. when i check the free play gain, its pretty close to what the video shows, but once i put the bike in gear it stillwants to move forward. and if i pull the clutch in and rev it the bike will move. 



  • Monk

Posted December 26, 2015 - 03:48 AM

#13

I just readjusted again followed the video on the rekluse site. Made sure i had plenty of slack in my cable, did the install gap still have slack in the cable.. when i check the free play gain, its pretty close to what the video shows, but once i put the bike in gear it stillwants to move forward. and if i pull the clutch in and rev it the bike will move.


Can you hold it with your feet? Some forward pull is normal but it is very light...

  • grayracer513

Posted December 26, 2015 - 08:03 AM

#14

New clutch plates or old? What brand?



  • Drenmaster

Posted December 26, 2015 - 09:16 AM

#15

Can you hold it with your feet? Some forward pull is normal but it is very light...

 

yea i can hold it with my feet. but if i hold the clutch and rev the bike it will move forward. 

New clutch plates or old? What brand?

newish.. maybe 20 hours rekluse.



  • Monk

Posted December 26, 2015 - 09:22 AM

#16

yea i can hold it with my feet. but if i hold the clutch and rev the bike it will move forward.
newish.. maybe 20 hours rekluse..


More freeplay is needed...

  • BGoyins

Posted December 26, 2015 - 10:09 AM

#17

yea i can hold it with my feet. but if i hold the clutch and rev the bike it will move forward. 

newish.. maybe 20 hours rekluse.

 

You may just have the idle RPM set a little too high. Mine will slightly tug at idle, but only when the oil is cold, not hot. Drop the RPM just a bit and see if that helps, then I agree after that adjust the gain to reduce the tug with the clutch in and revving the engine. But... with the engine oil hot. Also, does the clutch cable adjustment look better now with some slack at the clutch lever? Sounds like you're getting there.



  • Drenmaster

Posted December 26, 2015 - 02:09 PM

#18

You may just have the idle RPM set a little too high. Mine will slightly tug at idle, but only when the oil is cold, not hot. Drop the RPM just a bit and see if that helps, then I agree after that adjust the gain to reduce the tug with the clutch in and revving the engine. But... with the engine oil hot. Also, does the clutch cable adjustment look better now with some slack at the clutch lever? Sounds like you're getting there.


Night and day differnce on the clutch cable. Ill keep adjusting as mentioned and i think ill be good to go.

  • Drenmaster

Posted December 27, 2015 - 12:14 AM

#19

So i took everyone's advice and adjusted everything again. It is alot better than it was but i still had to adjust the cable to keep the bike from moving while the clutch is pulled in and revving it. Thanks for the help from everyone!!



  • philfell

Posted December 29, 2015 - 09:37 PM

#20

Are you sure you have the correct number of Oem steels and friction plates in. I installed my rekluse today and didn't have to take out any where near that amount cable to get it adjusted properly.

I'd recheck the number if plates and make sure you don't have one too many.





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