New to me 450


27 replies to this topic
  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 23, 2015 - 11:00 PM

#1

Hello,

I used to own a 2001 wr250f, sold a few years back and now got a wicked deal on a 03 WR 450F. have not had a chance to ride it other than down my alley.

Came with tons of parts and a knowledgeable seller. went to do tmy first oil change and found lots of metal in the filter and the bike has a terrible metallic sound from the cylinder area. used a stethoscope to pin point location. im thinking i may have to replace cylinder and piston? any ideas would be great, have nor checked valve clearances yet but with this much noise i'm sure something will need to be replaced.

 

Hoperfuly these pictures and video work

 

here is a link to the video (updated)

http://i523.photobuc...zpsc6qdqpd6.mp4

IMG_4132.JPG

IMG_4138.JPG


Edited by ScubaruSteve, December 24, 2015 - 08:05 AM.


  • Markin

Posted December 24, 2015 - 02:23 AM

#2

Your link to video does not work. If I were you, I would buy new gaskets for engine and take it apart to see it's condition and defect parts, beginning from clutch and then top. 



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted December 24, 2015 - 06:47 AM

#3

Those look like gear flakes.

Some of the gears in the trans are not fully hardened, and eventually start to flake apart.

Just watch the oil filter for size and ferrous-ness.

 

The only way to know if you need new parts (assuming no signs of failure) is to remove the cylinder and head, and start measuing using the service manuals service limits to guide you.



  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 24, 2015 - 08:16 AM

#4

Video works now. Clutch housing wasn't giving off any noise but i will check that anyways, the amount of small metal shavings is normal? I'm planning on tearing it down to find the noise in a few weeks to see whats going on.



  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 27, 2015 - 05:20 PM

#5

Pulled the clutch apart today, found i need a new lock washer, clutch was loose and the lock washer was missing a few tabs. maybe the black shavings in the oil?

Valves seem to be shimmed fine but there is a shiny part on the piston at the exhaust side and on the head near the exhaust side as well. thoughts? concerns?

At this point I'm leaning towards Cylinder Works top end rebuild kit (piston & cylinder).

 

Head_zps5g9fxnik.jpg

Piston_zpsha7xf4gw.jpg



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted December 27, 2015 - 07:50 PM

#6

Everything looks normal, visually



  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 27, 2015 - 08:49 PM

#7

Well i pulled the cylinder off, The lower crank bearing has lots of play not sure how much side to side it should have, the wrist pin has minor play but i can move the piston from side to side. now im not sure what i should do here. i really didn't want to split the cases as i was nervous going this far. whole crank assembly/piston? seems the cylinder has some grooving from the rings over time but may be fine.



  • Newfoundkawirider

Posted December 27, 2015 - 09:28 PM

#8

Your supposed to have some side to side play in the connecting rod and the piston should move side to side also. Just no up and down play

  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 27, 2015 - 10:19 PM

#9

Ok, I do have some up and down play in the lower connecting rod. Not tons but I can feel it and makes me a bit uneasy. Wonder if I should just ride it or tear into it. Just the noise this thing makes just sounds so bad, warm or cold.

  • knuckleduster271

Posted December 27, 2015 - 10:59 PM

#10

Mine was making the same noises, was a combination of a counter balancer bearing and the big end bearing.
If you did the work yourself you could source alot of used parts on ebay and probably get away somewhere around $500 for a basic bottom end rebuild depending on what it needs( crank pin-new-$35, bearing-new-$55, rod-new-$100, machine work-$60-80,gaskets-new-$60, cylinder-reuse-$0, piston-reuse-$0, and rings-new-$35) add an extra $1-200 for a transmission if needed.

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  • Newfoundkawirider

Posted December 28, 2015 - 09:35 AM

#11

Yeah if it's got up and down play gonna need to split bottom end open and replace crank assembly of you don't have access to machine shop that could press old pin out and true and balance everything correctly

  • bikedude987

Posted December 28, 2015 - 02:24 PM

#12

That piston is getting dangerously close to the valves and head.  All three intakes are kissing and the piston is kissing the head, hence the spots sans carbon.  Good call tearing down, looks like a new piston at least, I'd bet it's rocking in the bore enough to cause the marks.  That, or the crank has some vertical play.  Or the timing chain is stretched.  Spend lots of time with proper measuring tools and replace what needs.  I'd bet your valves are fine, but if you're doing the rest of the motor, might as well....



  • bikedude987

Posted December 28, 2015 - 02:25 PM

#13

Well i pulled the cylinder off, The lower crank bearing has lots of play not sure how much side to side it should have, the wrist pin has minor play but i can move the piston from side to side. now im not sure what i should do here. i really didn't want to split the cases as i was nervous going this far. whole crank assembly/piston? seems the cylinder has some grooving from the rings over time but may be fine.

NO vertical play is acceptable, but side to side is fine.  See spec in manual.  

 

Cylinder grooving means the plating is shot and NEEDS a replate.



  • ScubaruSteve

Posted December 31, 2015 - 02:55 PM

#14

inspected everything more carefully, I am going to order a new OEM crank assembly and maybe aftermarket piston? anyone know if the oem comes assembled or in pieces? and any recommendations on piston choice? im not interested in a BB kit.



  • stevethe

Posted December 31, 2015 - 03:28 PM

#15

inspected everything more carefully, I am going to order a new OEM crank assembly and maybe aftermarket piston? anyone know if the oem comes assembled or in pieces? and any recommendations on piston choice? im not interested in a BB kit.


Crank comes assembled if a hole crank is ordered. Piston rings are not assembled on the piston. Stock pistons are good J. E. pistons are good.

  • Newfoundkawirider

Posted December 31, 2015 - 07:57 PM

#16

I'd go wiseco just cause they've always seemed to be great for me

  • stevethe

Posted January 01, 2016 - 08:43 AM

#17

I'd go wiseco just cause they've always seemed to be great for me

 

Some larger clearance's on those pistons. The Chinese cranks have a very poor reputation I would never use those.



  • Newfoundkawirider

Posted January 01, 2016 - 07:16 PM

#18

Some larger clearance's on those pistons. The Chinese cranks have a very poor reputation I would never use those.

I've put wiseco pistons in both my 125's, my 250f and 2 in my banshee along with a hot rods/wiseco crank. Wiseco makes great stuff that's why they're highly regarded in the import world. Know tons of people running wisecos in their k20 civics, boosted and not

  • stevethe

Posted January 01, 2016 - 10:19 PM

#19

Comon sense says he who puts a Taiwanese crank in his Yamaha gets pit bike results. Good luck!

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 02, 2016 - 07:23 AM

#20

Wiesco = not wise / no go






 
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