Anyone pick up a 450FX yet?



951 replies to this topic
  • TN Dirt Rider

Posted January 29, 2016 - 10:45 AM


My mistake, I thought down hill engine breaking was affected by the Rekluse . Good to know. Thanks.


It is on z-start pro's in my experience. You can still get some downhill engine braking but not as much as without the Rekluse. I'll give up some engine braking any day for all the other benefits of the Rekluse.

  • philfell

Posted January 29, 2016 - 11:26 AM


If you pull the clutch lever in and let the engine speed drop to idle then let the clutch out, you'll loose the engine breaking, but if the engine is spinning fast enough to engage the clutch all the engine braking is there.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 29, 2016 - 12:00 PM


It is on z-start pro's in my experience. You can still get some downhill engine braking but not as much as without the Rekluse. I'll give up some engine braking any day for all the other benefits of the Rekluse.

 

Something really wrong with your setup if that's true.

 

The clutch is operated by centrifugal force, and will engage and/or disengage at the same engine RPM regardless of the throttle position.  As was said above, if you roll down a hill at idle, or pull the clutch and let the engine drop to below the engagement speed, it will disengage, and you will not have engine breaking until the engine is raised to a speed above idle to re-engage it. Under those conditions, all you need do is blip the throttle and it will hook right back up.  It's NOT a "slipper" (back-torque limiting) clutch, it's an auto-engaging clutch.  Any time the engine is running fast enough, the clutch is engaged.  Period.  No loss of engine braking.



  • KennyMc

Posted January 29, 2016 - 02:08 PM


A Rekluse does not reduce or eliminate engine braking. At all.

If the anvil puts a Rekluse Z-Start Pro in it, he'll cure his gearing problem, and have his one finger clutch, even though he won't have to touch the lever 98% of the time, ever again.

Nothing will cure Roadblocks issues other than learning how to use a clutch properly. He's had a cheater clutch before, relied heavily on it, yet still developed the name Roadblock. Anvil, pfffft.....you ride with him, you'll see :D

  • grayracer513

Posted January 29, 2016 - 02:49 PM


Oh great, 2 old slow guys having a crash contest. Bring the Advil and tampons‍❤‍

 

Stop making mistakes like that and maybe you can live to be as old as he is.  ;)



  • TN Dirt Rider

Posted January 29, 2016 - 04:28 PM


Something really wrong with your setup if that's true.

The clutch is operated by centrifugal force, and will engage and/or disengage at the same engine RPM regardless of the throttle position. As was said above, if you roll down a hill at idle, or pull the clutch and let the engine drop to below the engagement speed, it will disengage, and you will not have engine breaking until the engine is raised to a speed above idle to re-engage it. Under those conditions, all you need do is blip the throttle and it will hook right back up. It's NOT a "slipper" (back-torque limiting) clutch, it's an auto-engaging clutch. Any time the engine is running fast enough, the clutch is engaged. Period. No loss of engine braking.

Don't know, I've had 3 and they all worked the exact same way. Setup per mfg specs, if I go down a steep hill, in gear, off the gas, clutch in....and then let the clutch lever out I will get some engine braking. Only happens on steep enough hills where you have good speed. If it's broke, I don't want to fix it. Like I said, all 3 I've owned did it and all 3 worked beautifully in my opinion so I wouldn't change a thing. 2 of those were installed by me, one installed by our local Rekluse guru who has probably installed 20-30 of them.

And the engine braking I experience in that situation is substantially less than before Rekluse install...like 80% less.

Edited by TN Dirt Rider, January 29, 2016 - 04:29 PM.


  • Bass Mechanic

Posted January 29, 2016 - 04:38 PM


i just blip the throttle or grab my left handed rear brake until i am down the hill. no big deal!



  • philfell

Posted January 29, 2016 - 05:54 PM


Don't know, I've had 3 and they all worked the exact same way. Setup per mfg specs, if I go down a steep hill, in gear, off the gas, clutch in....and then let the clutch lever out I will get some engine braking. Only happens on steep enough hills where you have good speed. If it's broke, I don't want to fix it. Like I said, all 3 I've owned did it and all 3 worked beautifully in my opinion so I wouldn't change a thing. 2 of those were installed by me, one installed by our local Rekluse guru who has probably installed 20-30 of them.

And the engine braking I experience in that situation is substantially less than before Rekluse install...like 80% less.


You answered your own question.

You let the engine speed drop to idle when you pulled in the clutch, so the clutch disengaged. If you left the clutch out so the engine rpm didn't drop the clutch would stay engaged, and you'd have the same engine braking as if it weren't installed.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 29, 2016 - 06:13 PM


Don't know, I've had 3 and they all worked the exact same way. Setup per mfg specs, if I go down a steep hill, in gear, off the gas, clutch in....and then let the clutch lever out I will get some engine braking. Only happens on steep enough hills where you have good speed. If it's broke, I don't want to fix it. Like I said, all 3 I've owned did it and all 3 worked beautifully in my opinion so I wouldn't change a thing. 2 of those were installed by me, one installed by our local Rekluse guru who has probably installed 20-30 of them.

And the engine braking I experience in that situation is substantially less than before Rekluse install...like 80% less.

 

Or more.  Yes, if you do that, then it's just as my previous post said, you let the engine slow to below the engagement RPM and let the clutch out.  You're getting only the normal drag of a disengaged clutch, which apparently isn't enough in your case to drag the engine up to lockup speed.  If you're underway in gear, you'll get normal engine braking when you let off, just like a manual. 



  • RMK800

Posted January 29, 2016 - 07:21 PM


Cut 3 pounds putting In a lithium battery and changing the sprocket to 51 tag medals hardened aluminum. That saves 1 pound un sprung. 4 pounds. My goal was 5 to 7. Could go smaller tires like the KTM has or replace pipe. Any other ideas besides rider weight to cut a few? This isn't something I'm obsessed about, just making easy changes that I know and cheap.ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124021.787495.jpg
ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124043.773838.jpg

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • The Anvil

Posted January 29, 2016 - 07:33 PM


Cut 3 pounds putting In a lithium battery and changing the sprocket to 51 tag medals hardened aluminum. That saves 1 pound un sprung. 4 pounds. My goal was 5 to 7. Could go smaller tires like the KTM has or replace pipe. Any other ideas besides rider weight to cut a few? This isn't something I'm obsessed about, just making easy changes that I know and cheap.attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124021.787495.jpg
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124043.773838.jpg

good info, the stock fart can looks heavy. Could be a couple more lbs lurking there

Edited by The Anvil, January 29, 2016 - 07:34 PM.


  • TN Dirt Rider

Posted January 29, 2016 - 07:52 PM


Or more. Yes, if you do that, then it's just as my previous post said, you let the engine slow to below the engagement RPM and let the clutch out. You're getting only the normal drag of a disengaged clutch, which apparently isn't enough in your case to drag the engine up to lockup speed. If you're underway in gear, you'll get normal engine braking when you let off, just like a manual.

I don't know, you guys are way smarter than me about this stuff, all I know is that if the clutch lever is out and you are going downhill off the gas I definitely (like 100% definitely) feel some "engine braking" that is there, but is significantly less than pre-Rekluse. Pull the clutch in, you pick up speed, let clutch out you get braking/drag....but not a ton.

As I said, with all 3 of mine I wouldn't change a thing in how they were working, it is awesome. I'd take more engine braking, but not at the sacrifice of anything else it offers.

Edited by TN Dirt Rider, January 29, 2016 - 07:53 PM.


  • Bass Mechanic

Posted January 30, 2016 - 03:05 AM


Cut 3 pounds putting In a lithium battery and changing the sprocket to 51 tag medals hardened aluminum. That saves 1 pound un sprung. 4 pounds. My goal was 5 to 7. Could go smaller tires like the KTM has or replace pipe. Any other ideas besides rider weight to cut a few? This isn't something I'm obsessed about, just making easy changes that I know and cheap.attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124021.787495.jpg
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454124043.773838.jpg


ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151724.761561.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151749.687724.jpg
ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151776.420122.jpg
There is the stock header pipe, muffler and the FMF titanium. I think the FMF titanium header saves another pound

Too bad you got the shori battery earth x is way better

  • stevenfallover

Posted January 30, 2016 - 04:16 AM


Looks like the 2.9 gallon tank is good for 75 miles at 5000 feet.  I rode 44 miles using 1.7 gallons. Terrain was sand washes, single track and goofing around. It is a heavy bike, the power is very linear to me. I think I will buy a programmer and see if I can upload a more fuel efficient map. Has anyone see something like that?

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_5639.JPG

Edited by stevenfallover, January 30, 2016 - 11:16 AM.


  • philfell

Posted January 30, 2016 - 06:20 AM


How were you able to get the 2.9 gal tank to fit? I ordered one and the hole pattern for fuel pump was rotated in a different position compared to stock. This made it so the connection for the fuel line was at a 90 degree angle pointing directly to the left of the bike. And the fuel line wouldn't reach.

First pic is how the stock tank is, second pic is the fuel pump in the position on the Ims tank, third pic is the pump on the Ims tank when it is positioned like stock.

Ims has been cool, after looking at the pics they said the tank was a defect, so the sent me a new tank. Second tank came with the same hole layout. So Ims is refunding my money, but they now claim the tank will work........



ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454163320.749335.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454163348.447536.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454163366.140087.jpg

  • RMK800

Posted January 30, 2016 - 09:07 AM


attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151724.761561.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151749.687724.jpg
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1454151776.420122.jpg
There is the stock header pipe, muffler and the FMF titanium. I think the FMF titanium header saves another pound

Too bad you got the shori battery earth x is way better

Next time. That was from my WR, so I'm not out anything. Thanks for the heads up and taking time to weight the stock pipe and header! Looks like 2 pounds on pipe and 1 pound header. That will get me to my goal, down the road when I can afford it.

Edited by RMK800, January 30, 2016 - 10:07 AM.


  • TheW0LF

Posted January 30, 2016 - 10:29 AM


Anvil, pfffft.....you ride with him, you'll see :D

 

the Anvil is The Anvil because he can take a whoopin and not even wince. 

 

not many riders have that uncanny ability. some riders turn into Ketchup.

 

heinz-ketchup-logo.original.jpg



  • stevenfallover

Posted January 30, 2016 - 11:12 AM


It fit as you described, I did cut off one of the zip ties to give the fuel line more play. As soon as Acerbis come out with a tank I will buy it though, they seen to make a better product from my past experience. Below is a picture from the left side showing the fuel pump etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How were you able to get the 2.9 gal tank to fit? I ordered one and the hole pattern for fuel pump was rotated in a different position compared to stock. This made it so the connection for the fuel line was at a 90 degree angle pointing directly to the left of the bike. And the fuel line wouldn't reach.

First pic is how the stock tank is, second pic is the fuel pump in the position on the Ims tank, third pic is the pump on the Ims tank when it is positioned like stock.

Ims has been cool, after looking at the pics they said the tank was a defect, so the sent me a new tank. Second tank came with the same hole layout. So Ims is refunding my money, but they now claim the tank will work........


 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20160130_120713280_HDR.jpg


  • philfell

Posted January 30, 2016 - 11:48 AM


I don't understand the thinking on why they would have done that. I don't feel comfortable stretching my fuel line to get it to connect to that plastic connector. Crazy that IMS doesn't know that the mounting is different than stock.

  • stevenfallover

Posted January 30, 2016 - 12:00 PM


I would not say it stretched, plenty of play. I do not like the way the connector is kind of exposed beside the shock. The fit is not the best but it fits. I am not impressed with the range of the bike so far but maybe a fuel map change would help. 

 

Hope you find this helpful. 

 

 

I don't understand the thinking on why they would have done that. I don't feel comfortable stretching my fuel line to get it to connect to that plastic connector. Crazy that IMS doesn't know that the mounting is different than stock.







Related Content

 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.