Welding Kick Start Lever
Posted March 01, 2002 - 10:28 PM
I would like to know if it's possible to shorten the stock kick start lever and weld it back together and maintain durability and strength? It's fairly beefy near the pivot end. If a guy cut out 1"-1.5" in a thick spot and welded it back together you would have a lever the same length as a Pro-Tec or BBR without the $120 cost.
While I was at it I'd have them add somemore material to the pad that hits the foot peg. Any suggestions on doing this? Where to cut, angles, welding rod type, ECT?
I'd love to have a new Pro-Tec lever but $120 is $120. I believe if it's done properly you can make the weld just as strong as new. Welders, what do you think?
Posted March 02, 2002 - 12:39 PM
Posted March 03, 2002 - 05:58 AM
I'd cut it in the thick part, them drill out a hole 1" on each side to put a rod (steel, or whatever) thru. then heli-arc weld it.
I knocked the top pipe off the left rad. with my knee, and had it reattached by a skilled welder. and that is some THIN aluminum !
There is a little weld puddle, but it was better than buying a new one.
I think the starter should be strong enough if its reinforced.
And, yes I could do this in my shop, but so can lots of other people, at any machine shop.
Posted March 04, 2002 - 02:24 AM
Posted March 04, 2002 - 08:21 AM
Originally posted by lawdog:
Why cut and weld, a YZ 250 kick starter will bolt right on, and is much shorter. Good luck Dave
Tell me more. What year YZ 250 lever? Have you done this? I'd suspect that a OEM lever isn't much cheaper than a Pro-Tec or BBR lever. I have a '99 YZ 250, do you know if the '99 and whatever year you are talking about interchange?
Posted March 04, 2002 - 11:54 AM
I tried swapping my 99 YZ 250 with the 250F. No dice. The 250F has a smaller shaft coming out of the engine case. Are you saying it's a direct swap? I called the dealer and they say the '99 shaft is now updated to the '02 piece. I see no way that this could be a bolt on affair. Maybe if you took the kick lever of the knuckle and swapped them around it may work. Maybe. Any and all info is welcome.
Posted March 05, 2002 - 04:06 AM
Posted March 05, 2002 - 04:10 PM
My email address is in the signature line. email@example.com Email me and we can work something out. I'm a former quad guy, Honda 250R, so I don't throw stones. Was the Pro-Tec for a 250F or 426F?
[ March 05, 2002: Message edited by: YZ Abuser ]
Posted March 08, 2002 - 12:05 PM
This is a no-no-no-NOOOOOOOO
I have been welding for years. In any case of weld the strongest point is the weld itself, all other areas around it are the weakest point, Ask a DR about a broken Bone were the strenght and weakness is after the break is heald. I woul do this instead, start by going to Yamaha and comparing the differant Kick starters on other machines, i.e. yz490, 250 tt500 and so on, Manufactures are tight wads and will not retool for things like Kick starter shafts and so on. You will most liklyt find a K.S. that fits and is what you want form another bike.
Never never wled a part on a bike, I can see it now your out in the desseart and your bike needs to be started you reach for the K.S. and give on good boot, it snaps driving the blunt edge right into you boot and ankle, your bleeding profusly and can not get it to stop, ya pack sand, your shirt a dead rabbit into the gapping hole
Ya get the pic
Making friends everwhere I go !
Posted March 12, 2002 - 07:40 PM
There is a guy in the 250F section that has done his with no problems so far.
I am about to do it to mine as well.
Will keep you posted.
Posted March 17, 2002 - 08:45 AM
Posted March 17, 2002 - 09:11 PM
Posted March 18, 2002 - 09:27 AM
From One Welder to another I endorse this whole hartedly
Posted March 18, 2002 - 02:37 PM
I have a similar type project in mind, and you have given me inspiration. THANKS
Posted March 18, 2002 - 02:42 PM
Posted March 19, 2002 - 02:21 PM
My friend had his kickstarter shortened on his KX250 as Mike_909 is recommending. The idea is to drill and tap the cut ends of the kick lever, then screw them together using a threaded stainless rod. Then with them screwed almost together, but leaving a little room to get good penetration from the welder - then heliarc/TIG weld it.
The stainless rod acts sort of like a splint.
The kickstart lever held up better than the KX did
[ March 19, 2002: Message edited by: z4me ]
Posted March 19, 2002 - 03:05 PM
Your comment " in any case of weld the strongest point of the weld is the weld itself,all other areas around it are the weakest point "
doesn't hold up in aluminum welding. The weld
itself is the weakest in aluminum welding the filler
rod dictates the ultimate strength. If you have any experience in testing Al. welds you would see this proved over and over again.Yes, that
statement holds true in most steel applications.
Also the recommendation of 5356 for the filler rod is not a good choice due to the melting point required to melt this particular alloy and its magnesium content, 4145 or 4008
and 4010 are specifically made for welding cast Al. due to the low melting point and the Silicone
and Ti content to counter in impurities in the casting itself and improve the wetting action. Most of the time the reasoning behind a cast weld repair breaks is due to the welder using to much heat in during the welding process which affects the heat affected zone and brings up most of the impurities out of the casting into the weld puddle thus creating a weaker / contaminated weld. This is the primary
reason to use the alloys above they will melt at 980 degrees where most aluminum castings will melt at 1080 degrees so you get a good fusion without excessive heat and impurities. A good place to find information is www.Alcotec.com on any aluminum welding alloys. Also as a side note 5356 alloy when applied to heat over 150 degrees promotes cracking in the weld itself.
Yes, I have welded the pads up on a few YZ-F
kickstarters, I haven't had anyone want one shortened though. I do like the idea with drilling and tapping the pieces but I wouldn't be afraid
of cutting and welding back without it. But ultimately its your decision, just adding a few
Posted March 19, 2002 - 04:53 PM
Would you chose stainless rod over mild steel because of the interaction mild steel might have while welding aluminum over it, or are you choosing stainless simply because it is tougher than mild steel?
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