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Crf250r 2004 won't start


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Bigborethumpers uses a brand new OEM Honda head and they install stainless valves and the appropriate springs. I believe they use the 07 head which has an improved design over the 04 and will still bolt right on to your 04 bottom end. Message Jeff@bigborethumpers. He's a member here and he's very helpful.

I went this route and it was fast, easy, and the cheapest way to do it. And now I have a better than original head with zero hours on it.

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Much better off with a new, post 06 head. The main cause of the valve issues were the seats being too hard. from 06 they used a softer seat material and valve life increased substantially. Also you can only cut soo much material off the seats untill they too need replacing or the valves have to be tipped to maintain clearance without needing really thin shims.

Putting money into you 04 head is not sensible. If you do remember to replace everything on the valves, springs, spring seats, retainers, cotters. Also do not run stainless intake valves with oem springs.

Edited by nzgsr
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My plan is to replace the valves, springs, retainers, cotters, spring seats, valve guides and valve seats with all kibblewhite products. I plan to go the whole 9 yards with this. I have every other piece of the engine and the bike at its best performance and quality, only the head has the original pieces in it. I hope to get a better performance with a complete kibblewhite head. So with a weisco piston that I already have in the bike and kibblewhite valves to soon come, this should be a close to flawless motor and performance. The bike already runs great, its just the valves that I have been adjusting really often and I can only shim them one more time. I have to heads with this bike, the head on the bike is another 04 head with 04 valves and the other head is just a empty head but it is the original one for the bike. So I am going to build the original head with the kibblewhite and I am just going to run the head that is on my bike till I can't shim the valves any more and then I will just swap out the heads. This way I get the full life span of the ones that are in my bike now and when there done I don't half to have my bike apart for long because I don't have to rebuild a head, I just got to swap them. At the same time I will probably put another set of rings on my piston. (why not) Let me know what you guys think of my plan.

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I dont think its a good idea to keep running the head you have until they cant be shimmed anymore, those valves are already toast from what you said(shimmed more than once, twice if many hours after first, maybe...). If one breaks you will be in much deeper than you want to be for that motor.

Thats said, I think depending on the price you could think about redoing the head you have. I paid 400 for mine to be done by mxtime. They did everything for this price including shimming it, I didnt need guides. Depending on shipping from canada it may make it worth it to pay the 575 and get the newer one, in addition to the better seats allowing you to run the oem valves(they are good if you keep the air filter clean, the seats suck) I understand they are ported better giving you a "little" more power.

For the piston, if it only has a few hours, <10 or so, I would just leave it and change it when it gets to about 35 40ish. You will be able to see the cylinder when the head is off so youll know if theres an issue there.

How many hours are on the bottom end, the piston and the bike in general if you can muster a guess?

Edited by CRFRida1605
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The problem is I'm located in Quebec so it would probably cost a fortune to ship my head there and back. I am going to send my head to a local shop and have the seats and guides switched to Kibblewhite and I will put in the kibblewhite valves myself with the springs and holders and keepers. I have a Hotcams shim kit so I can shim the valves myself also. I have a huge shop to work on my stuff with a lot of special and regular tools. I am just not equipped to cut out seats and change guides on a head.

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I dont think its a good idea to keep running the head you have until they cant be shimmed anymore, those valves are already toast from what you said(shimmed more than once, twice if many hours after first, maybe...). If one breaks you will be in much deeper than you want to be for that motor.

Thats said, I think depending on the price you could think about redoing the head you have. I paid 400 for mine to be done by mxtime. They did everything for this price including shimming it, I didnt need guides. Depending on shipping from canada it may make it worth it to pay the 575 and get the newer one, in addition to the better seats allowing you to run the oem valves(they are good if you keep the air filter clean, the seats suck) I understand they are ported better giving you a "little" more power.

For the piston, if it only has a few hours, <10 or so, I would just leave it and change it when it gets to about 35 40ish. You will be able to see the cylinder when the head is off so youll know if theres an issue there.

How many hours are on the bottom end, the piston and the bike in general if you can muster a guess?

Thanks for the info on the valves. I never even thought of that but it makes complete sense. Yah shipping sucks here in Quebec Canada so I got a local place to get the seats and guides switched for kibblewhite and the valves, springs, holders and keepers all kibblewhite I can put those in myself I got a big shop to work on my bike and got lots of tools. I probably got 20 hours on the bottom and top end of the motor since I rebuilt it the last time. I am very hard on my bike though I am always competing so I will probably change the rings at the same time.

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