Oil Change What looks normal? first after buying used bike


29 replies to this topic
  • RiderDeAzul

Posted November 09, 2015 - 06:29 AM

#21

Ahh, okay, that one looks more like my new Wiseco basket, my oem one had solid teeth. Hopefully the Wiseco one holds up a long time, apparently it has a lifetime warranty, which I thought was odd.



  • Brrrap Brrraaaap

Posted November 13, 2015 - 02:23 PM

#22

well been watching the filter and oil

 

the other day i did about 250kms got home dropped the oil straight away had nearly nothing in the filter but it had a slight haze over the oil that silver metallic sparkle of nasty death

 

i guess the guy/s before me just didnt clean the filter often only dropping the oil from the frame as it seems with about 4 changes ive flushed the bits of junk out?

 

i keep for getting to grab a proper papor filter as i think that might somewhat cleen up the metalic haze that im seeing i think its silly to have no way to catch the small particals and just have them go roun and round like valve grinding paste in the engine

 

all this said im sure the bikes not happy its a bit clunky/tapy and its not just gear box noise ether cos its almost as loud with the clutch squeased so must be a fair be it wear on everything so it will get a full brake down and inspection soon



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted November 13, 2015 - 04:20 PM

#23

These motors are NOISY after a few miles.

 

Look at the oil again after it is cold and has no micro bubbles.

 

Some glitter in the oil is expected. 



  • ThumpMe

Posted November 14, 2015 - 06:41 AM

#24

I do not think it looks that bad. Dirty filter but LOTS of people let them go, especially since some have to have the pipe loosened to get the filters off. Can you say lazy mechanic/previous owner?

 

Paper filters will catch more but frequently cleaning of the filter, like every oil change is best. ALWAYS (as Krannie mentions) drain the oil when hot as it gets more sediment out of it.

 

I have a newer one that has the noisiest clutch I have ever heard. I was almost skeerd to ride it when I first heard the amount of noise it puts out when the clutch is engaged! ESPECIALLY when standing on the pegs!

 

 The noise on these bikes will also be about doubled or more with the addition of bigger, more coverage skid plates as it reflects and amplifies the sound back up at you.

 

 I know from my manual the '99's only have five bolt/boss inner clutches, and that one to me looks stock.(See the 3YF number on the outside?) The outside basket could be aftermarket but the 99's were not known for having any clutch issues so I bet it is stock. Newer years have six bolt/boss patterns. Looking at your photos I wonder if somebody has drilled a few more holes in there as I see those lines of three holes by the oil deflector ribs in the center of the clutch boss. Course that could be normal as I have never even opened up the one on my '99. (If it ain't broke, why "fix" it?). That would also help explain why the 99's clutch's work so well compared to my newer models as they only come with six small holes in that inner boss. I know that was a "hot trick" they used on the 250's. Adding twelve more holes to get more oil flow out to the plates from the inner boss Maybe they got the idea from examining the old 400's? 

 

 Your clutch plates appear to have gotten hot, but then who's haven't? Check the thickness and flatness and if in spec use em over. If glazed you could break the glaze by laying some 280-400 grit wet or dry sandpaper  on a real flat surface (like a mill or drill press table) and lightly sanding them, but I bet they are fine. 

 

 If it continues to pop out of gear when accelerating hard that would be sign that it could have a bent shift fork. This usually happens from abusing the tranny and or shifting without using the clutch. If it is bad that may have to be replaced.

 

 Also all the parts for these bikes are still available as far as I know. May have to wait a little while to get some of the internal ones but I believe everything is still available. 



  • ThumpMe

Posted November 14, 2015 - 06:53 AM

#25

One more thing. I do not think I would want to be using diesel oil in a motorcycle. You need to check the API sticker on the oil container to be certain it does not have any modifiers in it.

 

 I just use plain 10W-40 Valvoline or Penzoil most of the time.

 

 I believe they (Yamaha) call for 20W-40 in the manual? BUT Yamaha quit making that oil and now recommends 20W-50 if my memory serves me right.



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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted November 14, 2015 - 06:21 PM

#26

One more thing. I do not think I would want to be using diesel oil in a motorcycle. You need to check the API sticker on the oil container to be certain it does not have any modifiers in it.

 

 I just use plain 10W-40 Valvoline or Penzoil most of the time.

 

 I believe they (Yamaha) call for 20W-40 in the manual? BUT Yamaha quit making that oil and now recommends 20W-50 if my memory serves me right.

 

Shell Rotella-T diesel oil is just fine. 

Millions of gallons used in offroad bikes for years.



  • ThumpMe

Posted November 15, 2015 - 08:28 AM

#27

 I have seen LOTS of posts over the years where people use Shell Rotella. I was not aware that it was made for diesels.

 

 Thanks for the heads up Krannie. 



  • Brrrap Brrraaaap

Posted November 17, 2015 - 12:57 AM

#28

kinda hung as to what i should to ive asked a few places about parts and they basically say its an old bike get a new one attitude

 

top end is like 350 bucks and bottom end parts seem difficult to get as they said there suplyer can get some of the bottom end but not all

 

for oil i think the main diffrence is the detergetns and anit sludge/ soot what ever stuff is difftent than petrol i mean at the end of the day oil is oil its the added stuff thats diffrent for apclations

 

ether way its had a bunch in it now and i think the clutch would play up by now so ill just keep useing it up (205L drum) whole lotta bike oil changes in that



  • bikedude987

Posted November 17, 2015 - 06:38 AM

#29

https://www.rockymou...oem-schematic/3

 

I would never set foot in those shops again... they are flat out lying to you.  Good thing the internet has all the parts you need.  For less $$ than the dealer.  And will deliver it to your door.  Why are you going to a shop again?



  • ThumpMe

Posted November 18, 2015 - 08:07 AM

#30

https://www.rockymou...oem-schematic/3

 

I would never set foot in those shops again... they are flat out lying to you.  Good thing the internet has all the parts you need.  For less $$ than the dealer.  And will deliver it to your door.  Why are you going to a shop again?

 I agree with this post 100 percent!

 

I buy ALL my parts from Rocky mountain anymore. Have not found anything they cannot get and they are MUCH faster than you can get them when ordering through a local shop. 






 
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