New WR450 owner in Colorado Springs


25 replies to this topic
  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 23, 2015 - 08:39 AM

#1

Hey dudes. I just picked up a 2007 WR450 here in CO Springs. Got a  screaming deal on a 'used' bike from an old timer, I use the word "used" lightly because the bike had 62 miles on it when I bought it from him. He bought it new and it sat in his garage until he decided to get rid of it. Needless to say it's brand new. That said, I did a few of the free mods i.e. grey wire snip and tuck, snorkel removal, and going to remove the AIS so I can tune the carb properly. I also want to disconnect or fix the TPS so its not twitchy on the road.

 

I already jetted the carb to the altitude here in CO Springs and got it pretty good but not optimal. Still have the dreaded "bog". Along with the temperature dropping from 65 to 40 in the past four days I am gonna re-attack the jets for winter time. I'm running a JD Jetting kit and GYTR fuel screw, I cant remember what jets I put in cause that was two weeks ago and I can barely remember what I ate for breakfast. I am waiting for new leak jets in the mail so when I get them I am gonna yank this carb back off and get her good for winter.

 

I also wired a brake switch and Baja Designs brake light fender license plate thing. Installed Avon Distanzia tires as I'll be using the bike for commuting this winter, about 70/30 road and trail respectively. Getting the state patrol inspection for an on-road title next week. 

 

Ive not met anyone around here that rides trails yet so I am hoping there's some Colorado locals who can offer some help with jetting...

 

I'm running an FMF power bomb and Q4 exhaust and a UNI filter so I know that effects jetting... Also I am not an extremely aggressive rider but would like a little more pop from my throttle in the low end for getting up and over stuff on the trails. Already bogged it a few times trying to get outta holes and over rocks on the trails.

 

1. Anyone have suggestions for jetting for this area? What is everyone running for jets in summer and winter Colorado Springs area?

 

To wrap this up, thanks in advance for the help and the forum has already provided a lot of info for me getting the WR running good thus far. If anyone wants to ride hit me up.

 

Thanks,

Luke



  • RMK800

Posted October 23, 2015 - 07:33 PM

#2

There are some performance mods you need to do on the carb. Replace the accelerator pump spring (Tokyo mods or merge racing) also get the accelerator pump kit

http://crfsonly.com/...ate-crf450r.php

I initially didn't do the pump upgrade, big regret.

Replace the needle with a YZ NCVS third notch. Also replace your leak jet with a 50.

My setting at 4800ft
160MJ
50 leak jet
Needle 3rd clip
45 pilot (tried 48, but when bike gets hot harder to start, I adjust fuel screw a little when it get cool)
Aftermarket exhaust open air box.

Your bike will have a bigger hit, pull harder and more consistent throttle. I have the same year.

Also get your self a brass fuel screw, don't mess with those aluminum cheap ones.

Edited by RMK800, October 23, 2015 - 07:45 PM.


  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 26, 2015 - 03:15 PM

#3

Thanks for the info RMK.

 

Whats the benefit of a brass fuel screw over an alloy/aluminum fuel screw?

 

I just got new leak jets today and I'm gonna pick up a stiffer AP spring hopefully fix the bog.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted October 26, 2015 - 04:21 PM

#4

Aluminum breaks......off inside the carb.....and it has the wrong type of taper...



  • RMK800

Posted October 26, 2015 - 04:30 PM

#5

Thanks for the info RMK.

Whats the benefit of a brass fuel screw over an alloy/aluminum fuel screw?

I just got new leak jets today and I'm gonna pick up a stiffer AP spring hopefully fix the bog.


I would seriously consider the pump upgrade also while you have the carb out. As mentioned, I regretted not doing it when I did the stiffer spring. It did make a difference and worth the $30.00 extra.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted October 26, 2015 - 05:58 PM

#6

http://www.thumperta...ew-and-jetting/



  • simica

Posted October 27, 2015 - 05:54 PM

#7

Power Now Valve! Had one in my 2005 and it made a big difference.

  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 28, 2015 - 01:15 PM

#8

Thanks @KRANNIE I know the 'bog' horse has been long dead and beaten many times so I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. I've got a stiffer spring and merge brass fuel screw on the way, with some new leak jets waiting in the parts bin. Gonna be ripping this apart this weekend. And hopefully shredding some trails as well.

Thanks everyone else for the info also.

  • SilvFx

Posted October 28, 2015 - 01:15 PM

#9

I run a '07 WR450F (with FMF muffler) and buddy has '09 WR450F (stock muffler with pea shooter removed).  The JD Jetting kit should work just fine if you set it up according to instructions.  You also need to ensure you go to a 45 or 50 leak jet, use the thicker o-ring mod that came with JD kit and adjust the pump timing exactly per the WR450F shop manual. 

 

Stiffer AP spring may be helpful and the CRFs only AP mod may work even better than what I have suggested above, but there is no reason you shouldn't be able to cure the bog even without those changes.  My guess is that the AP circuit and the squirter in the carb throat is a bit clogged and not flowing properly especially given this bike has been sitting around and not getting used.  I have no bog nor does my buddy and we used the JD kit per instructions and changed out the leak jet.  I would pull off the carb and spray carb cleaner up the accelerator pump channel and ensure the squirter in the carb throat is working.  In addition, after reinstalling the carb, I would make sure you can see the AP stream and timing and confirm it is working as it should.

 

One last thing on your '07.  Take a close look at the air filter plastic frame (aka backfire screen).  The '07's had a design problem where they could pull in unfiltered air down the hollow stem of the air filter cage (you will see what I mean if you have this problem).  Solutions are to epoxy over the hole in the stem or purchase a replacement OEM filter cage where they have fixed the design issue.  I had this problem and epoxied the original filter cage and then purchased a new OEM cage/filter so I could easily swap them out and have one ready to go at all times.



  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 28, 2015 - 01:28 PM

#10

All noted for this weekends carb adventures. Thanks for the tips SilvFx.

I haven't messed with the leak jet or any of the AP stuff yet so this all is good info to have for tearing this thing down. I'm used to working on a 55 year old Linkert carb on my Harley which is apples to oranges when dealing with this FCR. Haha

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  • RMK800

Posted October 28, 2015 - 03:40 PM

#11

All noted for this weekends carb adventures. Thanks for the tips SilvFx.

I haven't messed with the leak jet or any of the AP stuff yet so this all is good info to have for tearing this thing down. I'm used to working on a 55 year old Linkert carb on my Harley which is apples to oranges when dealing with this FCR. Haha

If you've never worked on these carbs, getting to them can be tricky. Take your time and lots of pictures with that mobile phone.

Loosen the carb boots, take off seat and tank.

Loosen top subframe bolt and take out lower subframe bolts. Take out muffler bolt.

Wiggle and raise subframe and bungee to handlebars.

You will see the shock. Piece of cake to take out. Take off both nuts and lift rear bike swing arm to allow the bolts to be removed. Remove shock.

Carb will be right there for easy removal after removing throttle cables and hot start (can be a pain to get back on) Take pictures, so you can see how lines go back etc.

That's it. First time took me about 45 minutes to take out. I can take a carb out in 20 minutes now.

When I first did this, I took off the entire subframe... I was an idiot back then. Live and learn.

Edited by RMK800, October 28, 2015 - 03:48 PM.


  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 28, 2015 - 05:05 PM

#12

Thanks RMK. I'm excited to learn some shit about this carb and get it running real good.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted October 28, 2015 - 05:07 PM

#13

Typically you don't need to actually take the carb all the way out...... you just need to pull it away from the front boot so you can rotate enough to get access to eveything.

 

When you rotate it BE CAREFUL of the plastic hot start cable nut. It breaks if you even look at it.

 

Be smart and order an aluminum replacement (ebay, zipty racing, etc).



  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 29, 2015 - 04:25 PM

#14

I have another question.

I read on here the AP timing adjustment tutorial and it says to use a .8mm drill blank for the throttle slide spacing when doing the AP timing adjustment. My book says to use a 3.1mm rod which is the height at which the throttle slide should be set according to the book for AP timing adjustment.

Which one is it? .8mm is awful damn small and I can't even find anything that small anywhere.

  • slotracer577

Posted October 29, 2015 - 04:58 PM

#15

.8mm is roughly 1/32" 3.1 is 1/8". You can buy piano wire at the local hobby shop for a few $$

  • stevethe

Posted October 29, 2015 - 05:30 PM

#16

If you really want to get rid of the weak spot your carb has you should send your carb to Zipty Racing and get the emulsion tube mod done. All my carbs go there and in addition they come back with adjustable leak jet and the Athena dual spray accelerator nozzle.

  • SilvFx

Posted October 29, 2015 - 05:43 PM

#17

I have another question.

I read on here the AP timing adjustment tutorial and it says to use a .8mm drill blank for the throttle slide spacing when doing the AP timing adjustment. My book says to use a 3.1mm rod which is the height at which the throttle slide should be set according to the book for AP timing adjustment.

Which one is it? .8mm is awful damn small and I can't even find anything that small anywhere.

 Use what is in the WR450F service manual which says 3.1 mm or roughly 1/8" diameter drill bit.  That is what i used for adjusting the AP pump on my 2007 WR.  Works just fine.



  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 29, 2015 - 05:50 PM

#18

If you really want to get rid of the weak spot your carb has you should send your carb to Zipty Racing and get the emulsion tube mod done. All my carbs go there and in addition they come back with adjustable leak jet and the Athena dual spray accelerator nozzle.

 While I do appreciate the info, that probably costs a bit more than what I'm willing to spend on a trail bike/commuter bike. I'm not racing, I just want to get this thing tuned up so I don't have dead spots in the throttle.



  • stevethe

Posted October 29, 2015 - 06:00 PM

#19

While I do appreciate the info, that probably costs a bit more than what I'm willing to spend on a trail bike/commuter bike. I'm not racing, I just want to get this thing tuned up so I don't have dead spots in the throttle.


It does cost some dough. However if your really doing serious technical riding and don't like flat dead spots with no power the emulsion tube mod is the only way to go.

  • KeystoneHate

Posted October 30, 2015 - 06:56 PM

#20

swapped the AP linkage spring (pain in the ass) and checked the AP timing, went from JD red needle on 4 to JD blue needle on 3 for the crazy temperature drop we just had, put in a 45 leak jet, cleaned the carb top to bottom and got it put back together. Ran the engine and it sounds better at idle after a few minutes of warming up. Throttle seems a bit more sensitive but I can't tell on the stand, I'll have to take it for a rip. Also put on a 48 chain ring so it's a little better on the road but won't lose too much bottom end in the woods.

I'll report back later after a test run around town to freeze my nuts off.




 
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