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FI Diagnostic Tool vs. Power Tuner


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I am currently using FMF mapping. Does the power tuner or FI Diagnostic Tool show the rpm's? I assume that the rpm adjustment is done manually (by turning cold start knob) and that the tool only shows the reading, correct? Where in California do you live that you have packs of coyotes passing by? I was in Ventura County before moving to Colorado last year.

Both show the RPM. I use the power tuner as its quick to hook up.

 

I live in Santa Clarita in Sand Canyon. We also have lots of bob cats and the once a month or so mountain lion. The coyotes here get a group together and go on all night raids, sit in your front yard cackling and fight each other or tear apart a dog or cat that they got a hold of. Its worse in Burbank. If you live up in the foothills area of Burbank the coyote packs, 10 to 16 strong chase down people that are walking at night. 

 

 I ride from 0 to 7000 foot and the fuel injection compensates very well for the changes. The ECU compensates for temperature and intake air pressure. If I were you I would try a CO of 12 or 13 and adjust my maps down -1 in all fuel cells. See how that works and bump up from there.

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My dealer just called me and said that the wire connection they needed to use the power tuner just came in so I'm taking the bike in Monday. I still don't think it will work without the FI DT. I'm actually going to be doing a race at Gorman MX on Oct. 31, do you think those changes will be ok for Gorman as well as here in Colorado? I really don't want to change the mapping numbers.

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Once I buy my own power tuner I will try different mapping, I currently have the FMF map and like it, but willing to try others. Do you have a FI DT? Cuz if the dealer isn't able to change my CO setting, maybe I can meet you at Gorman and you can change it for me. I will be staying overnight to Sunday 11/1 and camping at the MX track. Is this possible?

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Had hot start problem bad, Had the dealer I bought the bike from in Bozeman,mt change mine to +12 and it ran waaay to rich.Dead spot and blubbery. Had them back it down to +7 and it ran normal. Pipe glows at night after idling for a few minutes, now starts 80% better hot. Found that if I hit the starter button and slightly roll the throttle to the grip marks or somewhat less it starts almost every time.if you don't roll the throttle or start cranking first it won't start.by that I mean don't open the throttle then attempt to start.

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Sooooo, wait til you hear this. Took the bike into the dealer after they called me and said they received the wire connection for the power tuner to change the CO. After four hours of not hearing anything I called the service manager. He said that the power tuner did not work...I told him it wouldn't. Then he said they found their FI diagnostic tool, which at first he said they didn't have. I guess they couldn't get it to work (probably cuz they didn't know about the green wire connection) so they called the factory Yamaha Tech. They were told by Yamaha that if the bike has the Comp ECU, you CANNOT change the CO setting. So what they were told to do was to adjust the TPS up to the higher range of spec, so this is what they did. Service manager said it was starting good. His top mechanic also said that my WR is the best running WR they have ever had in their shop. That's great, but I want it to start quicker when hot for racing conditions!

I arrive to pick it up and to me it didn't seem any better. When I got home, I ran it up and down the street to warm it up and stopped and started it several times and it was starting first button push. So did this TPS adjustment make a difference, not convinced until I put more time on it. Thursday morning I leave for California to race the Gorman Big 6 GP. I would still like to have Vixjim change my CO setting if possible. One question, would changing the CO to +12 along with the TPS adjustment that the dealer did, cause any damage to my bike?

As I said before, I'm not going to bad mouth my dealership, they're good people, but I think all mechanics should be willing to consider all resources to help diagnose issues and not just rely on the manufacturer's advice.

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Dealer are messed up they should not touch the TPS adjustment unless its out of range. As long as its within the factory spec it would make little difference on the CO setting. First the PowerTuner needs no special cable. The IF tool needs a cable or like some of us a connector that mates with the bikes plug. For me I got the mating plug. Not sure why the Yamaha factory tech would say such a thing when it's the Yamaha factory that suggest bumping the CO up +7 on the comp ECU

 

 

"His top mechanic also said that my WR is the best running WR they have ever had in their shop."

Whats that say about the other WR's they work on. :goofy: 

Edited by vlxjim
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If they set the TPS just slightly higher than the allowable range, would that make the CO setting irrelevant?  The ECU might think the throttle is open even though it's not and you could control idle mixture with the lower left cell on the power tuner.  I don't know if it would work, just hypothesizing.

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So the reason my bike was starting first push when I got it home from the dealer was because the cold start button was pulled, duh! Rode it up and down the street to warm it up and tried some hot starting. No better, if fact its worse! Not even my trick of revving up the rpm's before hitting the kill button and restarting worked. Hopefully I will see Vlxjim in Gorman on Sunday and he can get me set up.

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If they set the TPS just slightly higher than the allowable range, would that make the CO setting irrelevant?  The ECU might think the throttle is open even though it's not and you could control idle mixture with the lower left cell on the power tuner.  I don't know if it would work, just hypothesizing.

 

 

Not sure but if it did You would probably run to rich of idle. 2000 RPM if you call that idle. One thing that most don't know it that the left bottom cell in the map does crossover in to the idle. This as well as the idle crossover in to the start of the hit of the gas. I have found that bumping up the CO not only makes the starting better but the hit off the bottom smoother and more controllable.

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I met up with Simica an bumped the bike to CO 13. Started good, but have not heard back on how the day went. Set the RPM to 1950 - 2000 it was at 2350. The TPS was high at 16.6. If we had more time I would of put it at 11. The range is 9 - 16 so its just outside. Probably not a big deal. If its runs good don't touch it. He is also running the FMF map.

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Got home late Monday night after spending Sunday night in Vegas, then driving over 12 hours straight Monday, very windy the whole way to Colorado. Big thanks to Jim for adjusting my CO for me and thanks to ride-n-hard for the backup offer. The adjustment came after my race, but it ran good from Edison campground to the MX track. I did stall the bike once during the race and I got lucky and it fired first push of the button. I will be posting a youtube video of the race in a few days so check it out by searching simi05wr. Its already turning cold here on the western slope of Colorado, but I hope to get in some riding soon to test out the CO changes. I think I will have the dealership return the TPS to 11.

For all those reading, vlxjim really seems to know what he's talking about, very knowledgeable I was impressed. His bike, 2012 WR450 was so clean you can probably eat off of it, lol.

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