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FI Diagnostic Tool vs. Power Tuner


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Need some help here in western Colorado. I too have been experiencing the hot starting woes and have read all of the other threads about changing the CO setting with the FI diagnostic tool. So I took my bike, 2014 WR450, into my local dealer where I bought it and ask them to change the CO setting to +13. I even brought in a picture of the FI diagnostic tool and the service manager said that they did not have the diagnostic tool, but that the power tuner can change the CO, but they needed a different wire connector that they don't currently have. Is this correct? Can the power tuner that is used for changing the mapping also be used for changing the CO setting just by using a different connector? Some day I will buy my own FI diagnostic tool and power turner to do these changes myself, but until then I have to rely on my dealership to do the right thing for me. I saw one thread that showed an additional connector for the d.t. Is this needed to change the CO setting in addition to the wire connector that the d.t. comes with?

Sorry if this has all been stated before, but I think that sometimes there is better advise here on TT then my local dealership. Thanks for any help.

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In reading other threads, I haven't heard of readers stating that they needed an "analyzer" in addition to the FI diagnostic tool in order to change their CO setting themselves on their bikes. What did I miss? Now I'm really frustrated.

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In reading other threads, I haven't heard of readers stating that they needed an "analyzer" in addition to the FI diagnostic tool in order to change their CO setting themselves on their bikes. What did I miss? Now I'm really frustrated.

If you just want to set the CO all you need is the FI diagnostic tool. The battery leads that power the tool are self-explanatory. The green wire [one of the tool leads] needs to have a blade connecter fabricated, this blade connecter is then inserted into the middle slot of the connecter plug located inside the airbox cover. Once it is hooked up and the correct startup steps are followed, the CO level can be easily set.

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Thanks Bozeman for the clear and reassuring explanation. I'm a little calmer now. The dealer is suppose to call me tomorrow with more info after he talks to his main mechanic who was not there today. Can't imagine a dealership that does not have a FI Diag. tool in their tool box. Just for arguments sake, does anyone know if he is right, can the Power Tuner change the CO setting with a different connector? Thanks.

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So the dealer called and said they are ordering the proper wiring connector that will allow use of the power tuner to change the CO setting. We'll see if it works so I'll report back later. They said I am the only new WR owner to come in asking to have the CO setting changed. Interesting.

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So the dealer called and said they are ordering the proper wiring connector that will allow use of the power tuner to change the CO setting. We'll see if it works so I'll report back later. They said I am the only new WR owner to come in asking to have the CO setting changed. Interesting.

I think your dealer doesn't have a clue of what's been going on.  ?

 

You are going to like having the ability to change the CO setting.  ?

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The only way to set the CO is with the FI diagnostic tool. That one field (setting) should of been put of the PowerTuner but was not. I was one of the first few that worked out the CO settings. As well as creating the popular vlxjim map. Unfortunately there is now a lot of confusion on the CO settings. After our discovery of the low CO settings Yamaha sent out a bulletin to the dealers stating that bumping the CO to seven would help. One of the first confusions had to do with which FI diagnostic tool you had Yamaha or China. All our testing was done on the China version. Where our CO had a base starting at zero, the Yamaha version had a base starting in the -20s. So the rule was to just add the positive number to the base number (starting point). Its a good idea to write down your starting number on the ECU. Now there's a new confusion. Where one of the members on here decided to monitor the air fuel with a multimeter and a header pipe off of a 250X.????? The new conclusion was to go with a negative numbers as the CO was too rich to begin with. I'm not really sure how that's possible when the gas analyzer says the complete opposite. Now there is one factor that has been going across my mind. And that is has Yamaha now been shipping the newer comp ECU's with the CO bumped up at the starting base? If so this would explain why some people feel that it's rich. I run a CO of 15 and my vlxjim map. It exhibits easy starts, smooth controllable bottom end power and runs cool (no red header or boil over).

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Thanks Atomic and Vixjim for your input. I told my dealer that there are some pretty knowledgeable people on TT and no one has said that the power tuner is capable of changing the CO setting. They seemed confident that it can even though they have never done it before. I didn't have the nerve to tell them it wouldn't work, you don't want to prove to your dealership that they are wrong, you still may need them someday.

I understand what you mean by counting up (positive) from the base number, what ever it may be, positive, negative, or "0". Weird that the Yamaha base number would be -20. Here in Colorado (6000 to 10000 feet elevation), I want to try plus 12 or 13 from baseline. I am not experiencing a red pipe, but I have the dreaded three button push when the bike is hot. If I remember to when I come to a stop, I rev up the rpm's and then push the kill button (got this tip on TT also). Next time I start the bike, within five to ten minutes, it starts immediately, in gear or not. But you can't always count on being able to do that, especially on the accidental stall, tip over, or a race condition. Any idea why this rpm rev works for restarts. Thanks again for your comments guys.

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Make  sure your idle is set to 2000 rpm. Fire up the bike and let it run for five minutes or so in the dark. You should see the header glowing. With the CO at 0 with no map or the FMF map they all glow from what I've seen. When I first got mine I thought mine did not glow. But one day I was working on mine and had a pack of coyotes come by so I closed the garage and saw the red glow. But It could be your elevation.

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I am currently using FMF mapping. Does the power tuner or FI Diagnostic Tool show the rpm's? I assume that the rpm adjustment is done manually (by turning cold start knob) and that the tool only shows the reading, correct? Where in California do you live that you have packs of coyotes passing by? I was in Ventura County before moving to Colorado last year.

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One of the first confusions had to do with which FI diagnostic tool you had Yamaha or China. All our testing was done on the China version. Where our CO had a base starting at zero, the Yamaha version had a base starting in the -20s.

 

I have the Yamaha branded FI diagnostic tool, and my initial CO reading prior to making any changes was 0 [zero]. Based on your experience I finally settled on +12 and it works quite well there. About 80% improvement starting cold or hot. I'm running the FMF map.

Edited by drdanbozeman
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What elevation do you primarily ride at Bozeman? Just wondering if elevation has anything to do with the effectiveness of the CO change. Your numbers are what I hope to end up with and I can live with 80% improvement.

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