FI Diagnostic Tool vs. Power Tuner
Posted October 19, 2015 - 12:35 PM
Sorry if this has all been stated before, but I think that sometimes there is better advise here on TT then my local dealership. Thanks for any help.
Posted October 19, 2015 - 03:20 PM
Posted October 19, 2015 - 03:40 PM
He didn't mention a "dealer tool". And are you saying that this "dealer tool" can change the CO setting just like the FI Diagnostic Tool?
Yes, but you can't buy one. Only for dealers.
That is why the FI analyzer tool is needed in conjunction with the FI settings tool.
Posted October 19, 2015 - 04:42 PM
Posted October 19, 2015 - 04:57 PM
In reading other threads, I haven't heard of readers stating that they needed an "analyzer" in addition to the FI diagnostic tool in order to change their CO setting themselves on their bikes. What did I miss? Now I'm really frustrated.
If you just want to set the CO all you need is the FI diagnostic tool. The battery leads that power the tool are self-explanatory. The green wire [one of the tool leads] needs to have a blade connecter fabricated, this blade connecter is then inserted into the middle slot of the connecter plug located inside the airbox cover. Once it is hooked up and the correct startup steps are followed, the CO level can be easily set.
Posted October 19, 2015 - 05:35 PM
Posted October 20, 2015 - 05:09 AM
None of the dealers near me had the tool. Depends on where you live, I guess.
Posted October 20, 2015 - 10:51 AM
Posted October 20, 2015 - 06:34 PM
So the dealer called and said they are ordering the proper wiring connector that will allow use of the power tuner to change the CO setting. We'll see if it works so I'll report back later. They said I am the only new WR owner to come in asking to have the CO setting changed. Interesting.
I think your dealer doesn't have a clue of what's been going on.
You are going to like having the ability to change the CO setting.
Posted October 21, 2015 - 09:59 AM
The only way to set the CO is with the FI diagnostic tool. That one field (setting) should of been put of the PowerTuner but was not. I was one of the first few that worked out the CO settings. As well as creating the popular vlxjim map. Unfortunately there is now a lot of confusion on the CO settings. After our discovery of the low CO settings Yamaha sent out a bulletin to the dealers stating that bumping the CO to seven would help. One of the first confusions had to do with which FI diagnostic tool you had Yamaha or China. All our testing was done on the China version. Where our CO had a base starting at zero, the Yamaha version had a base starting in the -20s. So the rule was to just add the positive number to the base number (starting point). Its a good idea to write down your starting number on the ECU. Now there's a new confusion. Where one of the members on here decided to monitor the air fuel with a multimeter and a header pipe off of a 250X.????? The new conclusion was to go with a negative numbers as the CO was too rich to begin with. I'm not really sure how that's possible when the gas analyzer says the complete opposite. Now there is one factor that has been going across my mind. And that is has Yamaha now been shipping the newer comp ECU's with the CO bumped up at the starting base? If so this would explain why some people feel that it's rich. I run a CO of 15 and my vlxjim map. It exhibits easy starts, smooth controllable bottom end power and runs cool (no red header or boil over).
Posted October 21, 2015 - 06:02 PM
I understand what you mean by counting up (positive) from the base number, what ever it may be, positive, negative, or "0". Weird that the Yamaha base number would be -20. Here in Colorado (6000 to 10000 feet elevation), I want to try plus 12 or 13 from baseline. I am not experiencing a red pipe, but I have the dreaded three button push when the bike is hot. If I remember to when I come to a stop, I rev up the rpm's and then push the kill button (got this tip on TT also). Next time I start the bike, within five to ten minutes, it starts immediately, in gear or not. But you can't always count on being able to do that, especially on the accidental stall, tip over, or a race condition. Any idea why this rpm rev works for restarts. Thanks again for your comments guys.
Posted October 21, 2015 - 06:27 PM
I am at +12 from baseline of 0. It's helped, but still not perfect. I think I may try going up to +15.
Posted October 22, 2015 - 01:14 AM
Make sure your idle is set to 2000 rpm. Fire up the bike and let it run for five minutes or so in the dark. You should see the header glowing. With the CO at 0 with no map or the FMF map they all glow from what I've seen. When I first got mine I thought mine did not glow. But one day I was working on mine and had a pack of coyotes come by so I closed the garage and saw the red glow. But It could be your elevation.
Posted October 22, 2015 - 08:00 AM
Posted October 22, 2015 - 05:00 PM
I have the Yamaha branded FI diagnostic tool, and my initial CO reading prior to making any changes was 0 [zero]. Based on your experience I finally settled on +12 and it works quite well there. About 80% improvement starting cold or hot. I'm running the FMF map.
Edited by drdanbozeman, October 22, 2015 - 05:01 PM.
Posted October 22, 2015 - 06:26 PM