hot cams exhaust cam and crappy idle
Posted October 18, 2015 - 04:36 AM
Also anything in particular I should be looking out for when I look at it tomorrow, common problems etc
Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:16 AM
No idle is typically a clogged pilot or pilot passage, or a bad fuel screw.
Once above idle, under load, if it runs well, it's not a timing issue.
Deceleration popping is also a lean issue, usually the pilot, or a leaking hot start.
Posted October 18, 2015 - 05:38 AM
Posted October 18, 2015 - 11:18 AM
A carb rebuild kit only replaces gaskets, which usually don't go bad for decades
Uncork the bike, and rejet per the FAQ section
Posted October 20, 2015 - 01:06 AM
I went to my Yamaha dealer today to try to get new jets but they are just a bunch of WA*Ker's, last time I went in to try and buy a rear tyre for my xr I was told "sorry, we don't do tyres for Hondas....." Today I asked for jets for the wr, they have none in stock and were less than willing to order some.... Gave up on them.
I found a bottle of "carb cleaning dip" in the shop though, going to strip the carb and leave the carb and all bits soaking in this cleaner for 8 hours, hopefully that and a bit of toothbrush work should do the trick.
Does anybody have any tips for making the clutch pull lighter? I've got a new cable on order but I've read that they're a heavy clutch anyway. Hydraulic conversion is too pricy at the moment.
I pretty much already know the answer to this but might as well try my luck, does any aftermarket company make a longer actuator arm, or maybe a different holder on the handle bars that has a different type of leverage system to make it lighter....?
Posted October 20, 2015 - 04:51 PM
Don't soak a FCR carburetor in carby clean. The mid body seal can be destroyed, the seals can be bought for later model FCR's but not for the early ones like yours. People have been able to cobble together a gasket out of the two later model FCR mid body seals but this is by no means a guaranteed fix.
Edited by boston460, October 20, 2015 - 04:57 PM.
Posted October 20, 2015 - 05:13 PM
cleaner on those carbs ....ever !
Posted October 20, 2015 - 06:49 PM
You need a new pilot jet, unless you own a sonic parts cleaning machine.
The rest will clean up.
Do NOT NOT NOT soak the carb in regular carb solvent body or you will destroy the carb
If the motor has hours on it, go ahead and replace the needle jet (emulsion tube) and apump diaphram and slide plate seal.
Get an R&D fuel screw too.
Edited by KRANNIE, October 20, 2015 - 06:49 PM.
Posted October 20, 2015 - 07:02 PM
So what would you recommend using to clean the carby?
I'll look up some jets online and try to get them ordered now, thanks.
Posted October 20, 2015 - 07:31 PM
Unless the inside of the float area is all green or brown, you should not need to do anything but clean it with simple green, fishing line, and compressed air.
The tight spots are the apump system and brass nozzle, the pilot jet, and the passage above the pilot jet.
Everything else will be fine.
Posted October 21, 2015 - 02:20 AM
First time I've cleaned a carb out dry, normally I'd use a toothbrush and spray carb cleaner, that's why this is throwing me a bit.
I'll check out the website now mate thanks
Posted October 21, 2015 - 12:46 PM
If you need a tooth brush to clean the carb on the inside, you best soak it in simple green for a few days.
Use spray brake cleaner.
Spray carb cleaner can be used with caution, but it will melt the slide plate seal, and can damage orings if left on for a long time