Posted February 25, 2004 - 07:12 PM
Posted February 25, 2004 - 08:08 PM
Do you do any water crossings? Leaving it sit for awhile would allow some mostiure to get into the engine but as soon as your run it for a bit it should evaporate out of the engine.
Posted February 27, 2004 - 06:24 PM
Posted February 27, 2004 - 07:31 PM
Posted February 28, 2004 - 08:01 AM
It doesn't take much coolant to do that to your oil especially if you only have 1200cc of oil to begin with!
I would guess that couple oz of coolant would do that. Especially if gets circulated for a little while.
Also if the engine is hot the coolant /oil mixture will it will want to percolate out of her!( trying to boil)
My bike did the puke thing last time I changed my oil as I was too Drunk to remember to drain the frame.
All I drained was the cases , added another 1200cc and checked the oil level after warming the engine for 2min and it poured out of the dipstick hole.
Apparently bikes and booze don't mix for me , even when I'm not riding her.
Anyways sounds like a base gasket or inner seal of impeller is passing coolant into the oil.
If it was the head gasket you'd be burning coolant -and would know it from all the white exhuast and stench.
Fix it right away , and at least drain the oil right away if you can't fix it like "now" cause the coolant will bugger your clutch fibers if they bathe in coolant for long.
If it were my bike I would dissassemble the clutch, wash the plates in varsol, soak them in engine oil and reinstall.
Also flush the engine with a couple of oil changes after the problem is corrected.
Even a minute amount of coolant will glase, then swell the fibers, eventually needing replacement.
I know first hand as I learned it the hard way when My last cr500 blew the inner impeller seal and the coolant got into my tranny oil.
Posted February 28, 2004 - 08:18 AM
Just my thoughts, but I think the radiator shop would do the test for you at no charge, then if it was a leaker, you could take it in to the dealer and tell them what the problem is. That might reduce your bill a tad.
Posted February 28, 2004 - 07:18 PM
Posted February 29, 2004 - 07:31 AM
It runs like a top and does not smoke a bit. I checked the water level and it appears to be ok. I just picked the bike up used and I did check the oil before I went out for the first ride and it was fine.
I did do some water crossing where the water was above the bottom frame rail and the head vent tube. I figured this was the problem and draining the oil twice would cure it but it was just as bad the second time as the first.
I already have the 2000 water pump shaft, seals and bearing ordered. Since the bike is used I figured it was better to know this upgrade was done and when.
My question is, why is my oil red and not green like my coolant?
P.S. The bike is a 1998 WR400F and I can not find a screen in the down tube. Where should it be?
Posted February 29, 2004 - 12:26 PM
Obvously, I'm just kidding. I check the screen about every 10 oil changes. I used to do it every 3 oil changes but that was a big waste of time.
Your oil is red because red looks like light brown. If it gets aerated because it's overfilled (or if the screen is so clogged it fills up in the frame) it will look pink or red. If that is happening I have a feeling the engine will suffer oil starvation damage.
If you don't have coolant or oil coming out of the water pump weep hole then it's not leaking. Wait until it starts to leak before you change it because you're wasting good seals otherwise. And don't forget to get a new right side engine cover gasket when you do change the water pump seals and impeller.
I may very well be wrong, but I see no way that coolant can get into the oil at the water pump unless there is a catastrophic seal failure and then you'd have oil and coolant all over the place. There is an air gap open to the atmosphere between the two seals and therefore can't pressurize so there seems to be no motive force to drive the coolant into the oil or vice versa.
Posted February 29, 2004 - 01:21 PM
There was definitely moisture in the oil because there is a milky foam on the cover and I can see drops of water on the clutch. I don't think it is coolant because it is not the slightest bit green and there was no sign of water coming out of the weep hole. I think I must have sucked some water up the valve cover vent tube, I did stall a couple of times in a flooded section of trail where the vent tube was under water.
Since I have the cover off and all I think I am going to install the new seals, shaft and bearing anyway. The old shaft looks like it is starting to get grooves where the seal rides.
Thanks for the info!
Posted March 01, 2004 - 08:31 AM
I have gotten water into the engine a few times because I dumped it in a large puddle. If you change the oil a few times and clean the screen and filter between each oil change you should be fine. Run the engine for a few minutes between each oil change and check for signs of water in the oil after you drain it. When it comes out clean you should be good to go. I always use cheap oil for those clean-out oil changes.
Posted March 01, 2004 - 01:57 PM
I will change the oil a few more times and change the placement of that hose.
Posted March 01, 2004 - 02:16 PM
Posted March 01, 2004 - 03:28 PM
Posted March 02, 2004 - 05:02 PM