resurrecting a TT 600 Yamaha

[rrefugee]

I bought a Craig's List non-runner today for $200, hopefully I got a good deal. It has some problems but I think they are all solvable. It has good compression and spark but the intakes are rotted out so it fires but it wont start. Besides new intakes it needs a d-comp cable and some work on the clutch, plus some odd pieces and a few nuts & bolts here and there. If anyone knows about fixing the auto d-comp system or the clutch, Id love to hear from you. 

[big ed wr400]

Hi, Good price! Replace the intakes, get a new cable for the clutch, install.. Get a repair manual too. Lots stuff on how to adjust your d-com cable.

Heres some tips for you. 1. Replace the kick-lever with the one from the XT 600. The TT one will ruin into the frame.2. Get a new air filter for the bike. Uni-filter makes one for the TT600. The seat will will need  to be replace too. Theres a lot  covers to pick too. Let us know how its gooing, with the new parts. BIG ED XT&TT 600 FAN!!

[rrefugee]

 Hi,

I'm pretty exited about getting this bike running & functional. The carbs are dirty but they work freely, and according to a YouTube video on these particular carbs, they are in good shape and adjusted correctly. New intakes and a d-comp cable are on their way. Someone took the time to remove the d-comp cable but left the housing on the bike, I'm guessing something broke inside. Hopefully the didn't remove any parts from inside the case, the head seems to have all the pieces to put on another cable. I haven't had time to investigate things much yet. The clutch don't work, though when I pull the clutch lever there is tension on the cable and the exterior pivot arm moves, maybe its just rough from sitting.

 

Where do you get parts from? I have found all the parts I have looked for, but this bike is missing weird stuff like the rear brake return spring (and various other pieces) that I haven't been able to find so far. I'm willing to bet that it will need some other off the wall part as I go through the bike.

 

How did you know the seat need repaired?  

[jjktmrider]

I get new parts from http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/parts.html, for the decomp system I have a couple spare motors here and do have a complete decomp system in a kit for someone that wants to add a kicker to the e-start motors. Most of the parts can be fit from the XT motors so you don't need to look only at the TT for ebay parts.

 

The clutch may be stuck or gummed together. You may need to take the cover off and the clutch out and soak the plates in fresh oil and work them to dissolve some of the old dried up oil. Otherwise a fresh oil change and get her running. Let it sit and warm up good work the clutch lever in and out, let it snap out. see if it'll come loose before putting it in gear while running. It may just choke off the motor if the clutch is stuck and it gets interesting to get moving. Sometimes it'll break free before you go over backwards. ?

Edited August 30, 2015 by jjktmrider

[rrefugee]

I have looked the bike over In a bit more detail and its missing quite a few parts. The entire airbox assembly is missing, no biggie, pod type air cleaners will do the job. The real problem is how to stop mud & crap from the back tire from getting slung all over the air cleaners and engine. There is no used mc shop around here to get an old fender from to cut up. I don't want to spend the money on a new Preston Petty just to butcher it. 

 

The forks have held air for more than a day, that's encouraging. I'll have to take them apart anyway because one side is leaking oil.

 

The new intakes and d-comp cable are supposed to be here in a week then repairs can begin.

[ironass]

rrefugee, I know what your going through.

I just got a 83 TT600, needs lots of care, maybe you can help me? My problem is the carburator where the fuel line attaches, has two other lines for hoses(total 3 lines). Where do the other two go? I cannot find the info on any shop diagrams.

Thanks

[rrefugee]

Hm...my carb assembly only has one inlet for fuel from the gas tank, but there are two overflow hoses also. Can you post a pic of your carb assembly from the intake side? Then I will be able to compare your carbs with mine and I can give you a better answer.

[ironass]

 

The bottom line goes to the tank, the other two are above that one.

 

[Octometh]

📎Carb1.jpg

📎Carb2.jpg

 

The bottom line goes to the tank, the other two are above that one.

You sir I bhelive have the California model. Those extra inlets are for emission control.

[ironass]

Octometh you have confirmed my(very recent) suspicions. I am in Calif. Should be ok to just shunt them off, ya? Or are they really necessary? I guess I need a Calif version of the shop manual.

[rrefugee]

Your carbs are a little different from mine, I have overflow hoses where your extra inlets are. I wonder if it would work to just run a hose from one inlet to the other to shut them off.

[jjktmrider]

The front one cap off, the rear one run a hose down below the swingarm pivot. If you ever have the needle valve stick and the petcock is on you'll need that overflow to keep from filling the motor with gas.

[Octometh]

Octometh you have confirmed my(very recent) suspicions. I am in Calif. Should be ok to just shunt them off, ya? Or are they really necessary? I guess I need a Calif version of the shop manual.

Get the Clymer manual, it has the regular and california versions inside to help you out. You should be alright just leaving them open to the air or cap em off if you want.

[ironass]

The front one cap off, the rear one run a hose down below the swingarm pivot. If you ever have the needle valve stick and the petcock is on you'll need that overflow to keep from filling the motor with gas.

 

 

Get the Clymer manual, it has the regular and california versions inside to help you out. You should be alright just leaving them open to the air or cap em off if you want.

Thanks jjktmrider and Octometh you both are a great help, I have a Clymer on order already. I'll go in this direction with it.

[Octometh]

Thanks jjktmrider and Octometh you both are a great help, I have a Clymer on order already. I'll go in this direction with it.

The Clymer is infinite help on all things XT. Should explain any problems you have. Good luck!

[jjktmrider]

I wish all Clymer manuals would self destruct and take the factory they're made in with them. I will never , ever, ever buy a Clymer . Once a person uses the factory service manuals you see how pathetic and incorrect the Clymers are.

Edited September 3, 2015 by jjktmrider

[rrefugee]

I been waiting a week to get repairs going and so far only two parts have come in. The new intakes are here, but not the clamps... Id use the old ones if I had em. The other part that came in was the rear brake rod. This bike is missing the strangest stuff, like springs, clamps, nuts & bolts... as if it were a parts bike, though it is relatively complete. The Clymer book hasn't arrived yet but I get the impression that it is of limited use anyway. Regardless, I think this will be a fun bike once its repaired.

[jjktmrider]

They are a fun bike, lots of lowend torque. You better know the starting procedure , if not done right they can break ankles. I had one of my XT's backfire and it took 6 months for my ankle to feel right, couldn't walk for 2 weeks without sharp pain.

[Octometh]

I wish all Clymer manuals would self destruct and take the factory they're made in with them. I will never , ever, ever buy a Clymer . Once a person uses the factory service manuals you see how pathetic and incorrect the Clymers are.

I haven't had any misinformation in mine yet. 

[jjktmrider]

There are several wrong torque specs or mistakes in almost every model and make that I've worked on(follow enough forums you learn where and which ones), plus most things when working on(usually needed the first time) your looking for the exact procedure for dissembling something or what is holding it together without breaking it or wasting a bunch of time , Clymers usually just say "disassemble the (whatever)" . Zero help.  Whereas the factory manuals will have good descriptions , pictures and actually tell you what needs to come out and in what order. After working on a shitload of bikes/quads motors and such , more often than not any Clymer I might have been given or came with the toy has to be replaced with the factory one. For just basic maintenance like changing oil ect.. They're fine , not when a person does it for a living.

Edited September 5, 2015 by jjktmrider