# Swingarm torque spec.

6 replies to this topic
• # BrianVT

Posted February 23, 2004 - 12:35 PM

On the right side:
The manual says 5.1 lbf.-ft. for the adj. nut and 47 lbf.-ft. for the lock nut.
I have a straight socket. The special Honda tool has a lever on it. The torque will be different, no ? Can anyone give me ballpark #s ? (I won't hold you responsible.)
Seems to me the adjuster nut is hand tight and the lock nut is good-and-tight ?
T.i.a.,
Brian

• # Big_D

Posted February 23, 2004 - 01:05 PM

I believe the torque specs given in the manual are what you would use. When using the Honda tools you need to calculate what torque to set your wrench at because of the added lever. With the offset the torque is applied through the total length of the wrench + extension, and being Honda does not know how long your torque wrench is they give the torque that should be applied to the nut.

Remember that the torque for the Adjuster nut is what preloads the inner race of the swingarm bearing and the outer nut is a lock nut. Without the hollow Honda tools there is no way to hold the inner nut while you torque the outer lock-nut.

Using the formula from my Armstrong torque wrench the formula goes like this.

T(W) = Torque setting on Wrench
T(E) = Torque applied by the extension to the fastener
L = Lever length of the wrench center of grip to the center of drive
E = Effective length of extension - (2" for both of the special Honda wrenches)

T(W) = T(E) * (L / (L + E))

So given that my torque wrench is 12" long and the extension length of the Honda wrenches is 2".

T(W) = 5.1 Lbf * (12" / 14")
or
T(W) = 5.1 Lbf * .857 = 4.37 Lbf is what I set my wrench to.

I hope I did not geek you out too bad but I have the Honda wrenches and I just re-greased my swingarm on Saturday and went through this exersize.

Hope this helps!

• # BrianVT

Posted February 23, 2004 - 01:13 PM

"I hope I did not geek you out too bad but..."

Nope, you're 100% right. Brain fart on my end.
I heard somewhere that the adjuster nut doesn't tend to move when you bring the lock nut down but now you've got me concerned enough that I may have to go spend the cash on the right tool.
Thanks,
Brian

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• # Big_D

Posted February 23, 2004 - 01:46 PM

I just thought of an easy experament for you. Torque the inner nut. Then mark its position with a pencil line to the frame or something similar. Then when you torwque the outer nut you should be able to tell if it caused the inner nut to move.

It is worth a try before your friends at Honda bend you over the barrel for the special tools like they did me.

When I did my swingarm this past weekend it did not take much force if any to hold the inner nut in place while torquing the outer one.

Cheers!

• # BrianVT

Posted February 23, 2004 - 03:05 PM

I used a marker to draw a line across the torqued preload nut and the end if the pivot bolt, like you suggested. Then I torqued the locknut. It (the preload nut) didn't move a smidge ! You saved me \$90 !
Thanks Big D.
Now, on to the steering head. (Next day above 32 degrees).
F.y.i., the socket I used is described here:
http://www.thumperta...true#Post851155

• # qadsan

Posted February 23, 2004 - 03:39 PM

Check out this article for more info on building your own tool, but the Honda tools are nice.

http://www.xr650r.us/preload/

• # Big_D

Posted February 24, 2004 - 10:58 AM

Cool Brian!

Glad things worked out, and I assume the check is in the mail.

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