2006 wr450 high idle


25 replies to this topic
  • exokiler

Posted July 18, 2015 - 09:58 AM

#1

Hey all just joined the forums after having some trouble with my 2006 wr450f.

 

The bike was jetted for around sea level or a little higher, then I moved to west TX / SE NM and the elevation is 3000ft to 3500ft. The bike has all the free mods done to it and has the Yamaha gtyr or something like that exhaust. Ordered the dyno jet kit and put the needle and main jet in as it said to put in also put in the adjustable fuel air mixture screw. Set fuel air mixture screw to 2 turns out. Only thing I haven't done so far was the throttle stop screw trimming to make it shorter.

Anyway I got it all back together and fired up and it idles SUPER high I let it warm up good and tried adjusting the idle but nothing worked. The only thing that happened is when I backed it all the way out the bike died.

 

Any tips on why the idle is so high and how to control it. Also has some popping going on to.

 

 

Thanks hope to get some insight on why its acting like this and get it out on the road and have some fun.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 18, 2015 - 12:39 PM

#2

You cannot randomly address carb issues as you please.

You must uncork the intake and exahust, THEN change ALL the required jetting.

You also should NOT use Dynojets, as they are not flow tested, and they can be very trouble some. 

Get a JD JETTING kit and follow the jetting to match the mods to the intake and exhaust.

 

Your idle is a byproduct of not doing the mods correctly and completely.



  • exokiler

Posted July 18, 2015 - 01:05 PM

#3

You cannot randomly address carb issues as you please.

You must uncork the intake and exahust, THEN change ALL the required jetting.

You also should NOT use Dynojets, as they are not flow tested, and they can be very trouble some. 

Get a JD JETTING kit and follow the jetting to match the mods to the intake and exhaust.

 

Your idle is a byproduct of not doing the mods correctly and completely.

So your suggesting to pull the jets and return them *hopefully* and buy the JD kit.

 

All the free mods was done by a guy that builds supermotos all the time so im sure that part is right. As far as the exhaust I did not uncork it.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 18, 2015 - 01:09 PM

#4

So your suggesting to pull the jets and return them *hopefully* and buy the JD kit.

 

All the free mods was done by a guy that builds supermotos all the time so im sure that part is right. As far as the exhaust I did not uncork it.

 

You won't be able to return the jets, sorry.

 

You can't every get it to run well with the stock exhaust. It does not flow. Even the headers inlets are welded up at the factory to restrict flow.

You can grind them out or change the header.



  • exokiler

Posted July 18, 2015 - 01:18 PM

#5

So the GYT-R Yamaha exhaust is the stock exhaust? I was under the impression from the guy that built it that it was aftermarket.

 

 

So to get it to run right I need to 1. get the JD kit and trash the dyno jet kit. 2. Either replace the gyt-r exhaust and headers or pull the headers off the bike and grind them out to open up flow?

 

Why im at it is the tusk fuel air mixture screw a bad pick also?

 

Thanks for the help KRANNIE



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 18, 2015 - 01:55 PM

#6

If the Tusk fuel screw is aluminum, yes, that's a real problem.

The tips break off and lodge inside the carb!

Plus, they don't have a tapered tip so they suck anyway.

 

Yes, the GYTR insert is the least amount of uncorking you can do for benifit. It is much better than nothing.

 

The issue is flow.

Intake, Exahust, vacuum level at the needle jet entrance all need to be in balance, then the jetting is matched to that.

 

If you read the FAQ and jetting threads in this forum, you can get all the info you need to create a bike that runs better than FI, if you do all the carb upgrades.



  • exokiler

Posted July 18, 2015 - 02:01 PM

#7

If the Tusk fuel screw is aluminum, yes, that's a real problem.

The tips break off and lodge inside the carb!

Plus, they don't have a tapered tip so they suck anyway.

 

Yes, the GYTR insert is the least amount of uncorking you can do for benifit. It is much better than nothing.

 

The issue is flow.

Intake, Exahust, vacuum level at the needle jet entrance all need to be in balance, then the jetting is matched to that.

 

If you read the FAQ and jetting threads in this forum, you can get all the info you need to create a bike that runs better than FI, if you do all the carb upgrades.

 

It is aluminum so I will toss that also. The bike has hot cams to if that makes a difference.

 

Looks like all this overtime at work im getting will pay off in buying more bike parts. I think I will just go ahead order the JD Jet kit, A new fuel screw, and new headers and exhaust once I read the FAQ on the forums here.

 

Thanks



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 18, 2015 - 02:34 PM

#8

Hot Cams makes three, I believe, different cam grinds for the WR.

 

I personally think the stock yamaha oem cam grind it by far the best, unless you are riding competitively, then the Stage 2 cam has some benefits.

 

You do not have to spend much money to the the bike running great.

You don't need a full exahust, keep what you have for now, and upgrade just the slipon or find a used YZ full exhaust (year 2005/6) if you want more power.

 

All the jetting and apump parts cost about $90 total........



  • exokiler

Posted July 18, 2015 - 02:45 PM

#9

Hot Cams makes three, I believe, different cam grinds for the WR.

 

I personally think the stock yamaha oem cam grind it by far the best, unless you are riding competitively, then the Stage 2 cam has some benefits.

 

You do not have to spend much money to the the bike running great.

You don't need a full exahust, keep what you have for now, and upgrade just the slipon or find a used YZ full exhaust (year 2005/6) if you want more power.

 

All the jetting and apump parts cost about $90 total........

 

 

I believe the cams are stage 2 which is fine it ran great with them back home.

 

I don't mind more power so I will look for a used YZ full exhaust and I'm going over all the free mods and make sure they are done.

 

Thanks



  • rah7777777

Posted July 19, 2015 - 02:21 AM

#10

On my 06 I did the JD jetting kit, full FMF exhaust (power bomb and Q4), free intake mod, GYTR mixture screw (as well as a carb rebuild with the JD carb rebuild kit)

Followed the JD kit instructions for jetting and the instructions in the stickies here for adjusting fuel mixture and idle. She runs great now :-)

This forum really helped me out with it all too! Great resources here!

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • exokiler

Posted July 19, 2015 - 04:59 AM

#11

On my 06 I did the JD jetting kit, full FMF exhaust (power bomb and Q4), free intake mod, GYTR mixture screw (as well as a carb rebuild with the JD carb rebuild kit)

Followed the JD kit instructions for jetting and the instructions in the stickies here for adjusting fuel mixture and idle. She runs great now :-)

This forum really helped me out with it all too! Great resources here!

How does the power bomb and Q4 sound? My exhaust now is super loud and love it but must be opened up more from the sounds of it.

 

And does the JD Jets come with instructions showing what jet for what mods done so almost any exhaust?



  • exokiler

Posted July 19, 2015 - 05:03 AM

#12

KRANNIE since the tusk fuel screw is aluminum which is bad. What is best the hardened brass fuel screw from JD or find a steel one?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 19, 2015 - 07:36 AM

#13

KRANNIE since the tusk fuel screw is aluminum which is bad. What is best the hardened brass fuel screw from JD or find a steel one?

 

 

R&D remote fuel screw is easiest to operate



  • rah7777777

Posted July 19, 2015 - 09:16 AM

#14

The power bomb with the Q4 is not very loud by any stretch. Has a nice tone but not over the top. A buddy has a power bomb with a power core and that is loud. Too loud for me

  • exokiler

Posted July 19, 2015 - 09:38 AM

#15

Ok I see. Well I just ordered the JD JET kit and the R&D remote fuel screw they will be here Tuesday and until then I am gonna see about finding a local yz exhaust or opening up the one I have now.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 19, 2015 - 01:42 PM

#16

Read this

 

http://www.dirtrider...r_carb_rebuild/

 

and this

 

http://www.thumperta...ew-and-jetting/

 

for more details 



  • exokiler

Posted July 22, 2015 - 03:50 PM

#17

So got the jd kit in and was going to put the washer ok the a pump arm like it says and this happens

  • exokiler

Posted July 22, 2015 - 03:52 PM

#18

The arm is over the lip of the cover and not even on the apump needle near the bottom

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20150722_174229.jpg
  • 20150722_174240.jpg

Edited by exokiler, July 22, 2015 - 03:53 PM.


  • WRistheWay

Posted July 23, 2015 - 04:37 AM

#19

Did you disassemble the a-pump linkage? Or is that how the carb was when you pulled the throttle cover off? Because in your second picture the throttle is open im guessing around an 1/8th to 1/4 throttle and the carb still appears to still be mounted in the bike?



  • exokiler

Posted July 23, 2015 - 05:17 AM

#20

Carb is still on the bike. I never messed with the linkage but now that I think of it when I had the dyno jet kit last week and I was pulling the needle and I guess it's the throttle slide came off the part that has the needle in it.

I need to figure out how to get the carb out I tried last night but my patience was gone and couldnt figure the cable out




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.