Yamaha FI Diagnostic tool - WR450 specific



150 replies to this topic
  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted January 02, 2016 - 07:55 AM


this is the only post you've made that is starting to make any sense yes lets set the mixture to 14.7:1 whatever that setting needs to be i will agree with.

but according to the guy who actually tested his it was already stoic to begin with before he made any adjustments.

so if your going to give that advice i will support it.

Wait! you've read me wrong! Or I've worded my goals badly.

 

We all hard e-starting efi bike owners do NOT want stoic idle mixture. :banghead: :banghead:    an AFR 14.7:1 IS BAD for e-start (too lean)

 

We want the maximum bang we can get out of that measly amount of charge the decomp has allowed to stay in the combustion chamber when cranking.

We abhorr stoic mixtures, as they're neither max. power nor max range, they are only relevant if we'd be running catalytic converters gods forbid.

 

And considering the fact that my (just my) 2012 WRF runs at stoic mixture with CO set to -26

even you should be able to infer that the "presumed" stock setting of CO= 0 is very very rich for my bike

If you took the time to watch my vids, you'd KNOW that richening CO stepwise towards 0 made my engine stall.

Which means that CO= 0 for my bike is a mixture "rich way past the max. power setting",  that's why the bike stalled!

 

Hence for my bike any CO setting of 0 (factory default?)  or any positive value is extremely bad for getting the maximum bang from the charge.

 

 

What I want do make people try is to forget about the absolute numbers that tool is showing. They are irrelevant!

Nothing in such a large scale mass production item like the WR/YZ/Quad engine has the budget to actually calibrate every engine+ECU combo befor shipment.

 

People simply should play with the mixture screw on FCR bikes and the CO setting on EFI bikes until the found the seewt spot of easiest e-start.

It is totally irrelevant if this results in the screw being 1 turn further out then the '03 owner's manual stated or if they end up at -20 CO.

If the engine needs that setting  for easiest starting it is the correct value! :naughty:

 

Hey, if this happens to be CO= 0 for someone's bike, weird, but fine with me. 

I'm pretty shure, once someone has actually set the CO right (e.g. slightly richer than stoic mixture)

and dialled in 1900 rpms idle, the bike will fire up hot, in gear, first button press.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, January 02, 2016 - 08:16 AM.


  • Bass Mechanic

Posted January 02, 2016 - 08:14 AM


Oh, you want stoic? What for? Are you a treehugger? 

 

I don't want stoic, I want idle mixture to sit as close to max. power AFR as possible:

http://www.mummbroth...ages/Stoich.gif

 

 

meep!   That's a lie for everyone riding at moderate elevation, check this out and learn

https://www.youtube....h?v=PLn1dj__sCQ

btw.

dumping a buttload of icons in a post is a rather lame way of arguing against video taped facts

isn't that nice? is this not the bike with the modified YZ exhaust cam and ground down the pin to match the profile of the WR? i rest my case! lol thanks for proving my point!

the fact that it starts at lower elevations even further proves my point.

also that is not a hit start button it is an enrichment button and is only used when the engine is cold! god your making this so easy! LOL

nice post!

glad you went outside and made a video of you starting your bike, that was a lot of effort.. you just want to be "right" so badly don't you? ha ha

whatever, you do what you want to your bike. i would really be curious to see if you do get around to checking the O2 how close to stoic you are.



  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted January 02, 2016 - 08:28 AM


isn't that nice? is this not the bike with the modified YZ exhaust cam and ground down the pin to match the profile of the WR? i rest my case! lol thanks for proving my point!

the fact that it starts at lower elevations even further proves my point.

I'm genuinely lost with regards of what your getting at. :rolleyes: You are correct I trimmed the YZ's decomp pin to exactly mimic the WR decomp pin.

I learned that from thumpertalk, I think KRANNIE pointed into that direction. :thumbsup:

 

If you simply drop in a YZ cam the starter will happily churn along w/o starting the engine, way too long a decomp duration.

This is how I did it: http://www.thumperta...e-startability/

 

 

If found that post http://www.thumperta...#entry12470236 of my YZ cam grind down thread,

where I mentioned the -6 CO setting I singlehandedly had dialled in before.  After the YZ grind down session  ...

Now after todays YZ cam grinding I habitually torture the e-start:
Every start is in gear, cold and hot, and up to now each of them was first push.
I'm really happy as a camper, the '12 now starts in gear as fine as the '03 did!

... I apparently was very relieved, that the in-gear e-startability I had achieved EARLIER (e.g. with the stock WR cam) has not been ruined by the crudely ground YZ decomp pin.  

In hindstight not very surprising, as the ground down YZ pin does close the valve at exactly at the same cam angle the WR pin did.

 

 

So you were saying?

 

 

i would really be curious to see if you do get around to checking the O2 how close to stoic you are.

BTDT, be my guest: http://www.thumperta...ic-vs-af-ratio/

It was only after that measurement session that I went from my presumed daredevillish CO of -6 down to -16 to -20, knowing that this still would be rich for my bike.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, January 02, 2016 - 11:44 AM.


  • Euro_Tech

Posted January 19, 2016 - 12:35 PM


Anyone selling, lending, or have a link to this tool?



  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted January 27, 2016 - 05:27 AM


Anyone selling, lending, or have a link to this tool?

http://www.cmsnl.com...ool_9089003182/ Good news, when I bought it it was 90$ a pop.

 

Absolutely necessary, like them stubby idle mixtrue screwdrivers/bits from the good ol' Keihin FCR carb era.

Can't setup your bike correctly w/o that FI diag. tool.


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, January 27, 2016 - 05:29 AM.


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  • Euro_Tech

Posted January 28, 2016 - 09:32 AM


Thanks! Shipping to the US is pretty steep but I can't seem to find it anywhere here so I'll pay it. I talked to my local dealer about just having them do it and they had no clue what I was even talking about.

  • matt85

Posted February 08, 2016 - 02:06 PM


I bought the tool from http://www.cmsnl.com...ol_9089003182/.

 

It came with the triangular connector and the alligator clips/green wire connector.  Since I have no need for the triangular connector, I removed the green blade terminal from the triangle connector and cut the green wire about 10" back.  I cut the green end off of the other connector and spliced the blade terminal to it.

 

I started with a CO value of -8 and the bike wouldn't start.  I pulled the cold start knob out and it started after a few cranks.  It's never started cold using the electric start so I was pleased.  I tried -12 and +4 to see how it differed.  With the cold start knob in, it started right up at both -12 and +4.  The bike was still relatively cold so I'm not sure which CO value would be better but I'm going to keep playing around with it.


Edited by matt85, February 08, 2016 - 02:07 PM.


  • Kx250FRiDeR651

Posted February 10, 2016 - 01:20 AM


I'm in Orange Ca. I just bought this tool on eBay (says feb 14th estimated shipping). I would be willing to let locals use this once I recieve it no charge. I'm electrical challenged when it comes to reading electrical instructions. So let me get this straight, all it needs is a correct size blade terminal crimped to the green wire so it can be plugged into the center slot in the Ecu piggyback plug?

Side note. I've only uploaded better ECU maps, but my bike kicks and starts amazing with no throttle (just really hard to start in gear). Purchased this tool anyways to make sure I have everything dialed in incase I'm ever in different altitudes, temps etc where I may run into issues or just let people in need around me use it.

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651, February 10, 2016 - 02:02 AM.


  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted February 10, 2016 - 09:09 AM


I'm in Orange Ca. I just bought this tool on eBay (says feb 14th estimated shipping). I would be willing to let locals use this once I recieve it no charge. I'm electrical challenged when it comes to reading electrical instructions. So let me get this straight, all it needs is a correct size blade terminal crimped to the green wire so it can be plugged into the center slot in the Ecu piggyback plug?
 

Correct. Or you could go the long way, and get yourself the 3-way connector, crimp/solder it onto to wire AND provide permanent +12V (by taking out the diode and adding a cable to the battery).

 

Then you simply open the airbox lid, connect to tool (will power up), hold down the center button and switch on ignition.

No removing the seat and teasing the battery terminals with clamps, etc.

 

 

 

ide note. I've only uploaded better ECU maps, but my bike kicks and starts amazing with no throttle (just really hard to start in gear). Purchased this tool anyways to make sure I have everything dialed in incase I'm ever in different altitudes, temps etc where I may run into issues or just let people in need around me use it.

I'm riding with CO set to -30 and really like it: super smooth transition from idle to slow speed, A#1 in gear e-starts.



  • Kx250FRiDeR651

Posted February 16, 2016 - 11:18 AM


Got the tool.

Only thing is, half the people are saying they are setting it at a really negative number and some are saying positive or just the standard "8" answer. Wich is the way to set it, - or +?

CO is shown to be set to the obvious "0" on the tool and when I checked on our smog machine in manual mode last week The sniffer was reading 3% at idle.

Edited by Kx250FRiDeR651, February 16, 2016 - 03:59 PM.


  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted February 17, 2016 - 12:05 PM


Got the tool.

Only thing is, half the people are saying they are setting it at a really negative number and some are saying positive or just the standard "8" answer. Wich is the way to set it, - or +?

CO is shown to be set to the obvious "0" on the tool and when I checked on our smog machine in manual mode last week The sniffer was reading 3% at idle.

Try it yourself and spread your findings.  start with -20, -10, 0, +10, and +20.

You won't ruin anything, and you should be able to kickstart in neutral with any of these values. :thumbsup:

 

But only with one of them you'll be able to e-start in gear :devil:

(maybe it +10 for your bike, we don't know, yet.

 I'm running -30 and am loving it)






 
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