after reading https://en.wikipedia...osphate_battery
they seem to be a near perfect lead-acid replacement when using four cells:
Max Voltage would be 3.65 * 4 = 14.6V, but even more importantly"LiFePO4 batteries have a very constant discharge voltage. Voltage stays close to 3.2V during discharge until the cell is exhausted."
Sounds like starter rpms won't decline as much as they do with draining lead-acid batterys.
I wonder if they really feature true 12Ah, that would be twice the energy of a WRF's stock YTZ7S (claims a measly 6Ah).
the label http://earthxmotorsp...com/shop/ETX12Asays 12EqAh but the fine print the the bottom speaks of 4Ah
but it stills weighs less then half a YTZ7S.
if you knew anything about batteries you would know that a lead acid STARTER battery can only be discharged about 30% of it's total capacity. a deep cycle battery can be bought to about 50% of its total capacity. any more than this will cause the battery life to suffer greatly by about 80% fewer charge cycles.
the Li-Fe battery can be discharged to 100% of its capacity without any damage. they have lower internal resistance so they take a charge about 3 times faster to recover than a lead acid battery.
as you stated earlier if your woods riding which i do 90% of the time you have way more cranking amps, and a higher resting voltage not to mention it has an internal BMS that will disconnect the battery from the load if it gets discharged to far which is very damaging to a Li-Fe battery. in fact they can actually explode if discharged to far. the shori battery has none of these things and can self destruct if not managed properly.
so why would you want a lead acid battery that will only last about a year or 2 with normal use, weighs more than 2x as much, has less cranking amps, lower operating voltage, higher internal resistance, can leak acid, and is a over 100 year old technology when you can have all the benefits of a lithium battery which has more storage for the same size and half weight.
you really should research a little more before you spread your lack of knowledge across the web like you know what your talking about..
So far your 0-2 for knowledge on the subject matter of this thread. maybe you should quit while your ahead. people on these forums are seeking help and you talk like you know what your talking about and you may even believe yourself that your pretty smart.. but it is clear as you tinker with things that you do not know what the long term effects are of what your adjusting. there is a reason yamaha makes this adjustment tool expensive and hard to find for the general public, because in the hands of an inexperienced backyard mechanic you can do a lot more harm than good..
it seems your experience with fuel injection is pretty weak as is most i suppose it is fairly new to the motorcycle scene and i suspect few on the forums really understand how it works. you should study automotive applications, way more complex when you add MAF sensors, knock sensors, O2 sensors direct injection, forced induction I've been studying these and working on for the past 10 years or so. been studying electronics for the past 40 years give or take. so i think i have a pretty good handle on the subject matter here.
all of this nonsense could have been avoided if you just tried starting your bike by cracking the throttle a little. even without the decompressor pin modification (i personally think is un-necessary) the bike has always started fine in or out of gear and the Lithium battery definitely spins it over faster which also helps a lot.