A few thing here.
1st, when your adjusting the throttle rpm with the grey knob, is this also re adjusting the tps sensor?
2nd when your pulling the grey knob out (cold start) are you now coming off the idle / co setting and are now in the low portion of the fi map?
My understanding is the tps needs needs to be set so the ecm knows where idle is. I'm not wondering if by you playing around with rpms your ecm is no longer mapped.
Next is that in your videos you are puling the grey knob to start. I know for myself that my bike as well as others starts right up doing that. However where my issue comes in is I will be riding, the bikes all warmed up. I can either stall the bike or just stop for a minute and sometimes the bike starts right back up (with out using the grey knob) and sometimes it will take 3 attempts.
So hopefully when your looking at all these numbers your actually looking at idle settings without the grey knob pulled.
Does anyone know if indeed that they grey knob is not putting the ecm in some different mode?
1st, 2nd : NO It's just an air passage whose configuration the ECU knows about via the MAP sensor.
TPS is irrelevant for idle, the factory TPS adjustment instructions are far to coarse for precise idle adjustment
1st video (cold engine) I pulled the cold-start knob (=opened the additional AIR passage)
2nd video (hot engine) I made sure, the cold-start knob is NOT pulled.
All other measurements from other postings, the CO vs. O² readings, all hot-starts in gear
and all first day cold starts (in gear!) during summer(!) are done with cold-start NOT pulled.
Basically a correctly jetted idle doen't need "hot-start" knobs or "throttles cracked a tiny bit":
"The bike was idling nicely at closed throttle before you stalled it,
why should you need to create a different mixture to start it up again?"
What the second video should demonstrate is, that as I adjusted my CO correctly
I never ever need to mess neither throttle NOR knob to fire up the hot engine!
re: hot-start/cold-start button
That device can be pulled (= opening the additional air passage wholly) or tweaked, turned in not-pulled position (= adjusting the additional air passage).
Dialling in "max idle rpm" you will find that you practically cannot pull the button out anymore as it's in its max airpassage position already.
The throttle position at closed throttle doesn't allow for engine idling, it'll die when the knob is set to "min. air passage".
E.g. the TPS value has nothing to do with idle speed regulation, it is always the same value, "closed butterfly".
Idle speed is adjusted only by tweaking the additional air passage throughput by turning the knob.
In-gear e-starting is adjusted only by weaking the CO setting.
In all engine startup cases (hot/cold, e-start/kick) the ECU senses
1) the MAP during cranking! (mainfold pressure, directly and precisely proportional to real time air throughput)
2) adds in coolant-temp (cold/hot engine => enrichment mapping for cold starts),
3) intake air temp (density factor 1),
4) "static MAP before cranking" (density factor 2, altitude dependend)
5) fuel pressure
6) the famous CO setting (this unit-less number shifts the whole calculation towards rich or lean)
and calculates the injection duration (= amount of fuel)
So basically the knob is totally unnecessary, after dialling in decend idle speed when hot,
IF AND ONLY IF the CO value was trimmed so that above resulting mixture is perfect.
However, with engine and oil really cold, the internal friction can become too big,
so that the power generated by the combustible charge at closed throttle is NOT sufficient to overcome said friction.
THAT is the only reason why we need to be able to "pull the knob":
more air (sensed by ECU via MAP resulting in more fuel) helps to generate enough power to overcome the cold engine's internal friction.
The amount of fuel lost due to condensing on the cold intake surfaces (= leaning of idle mixture)
can easily be compensated by the ECU itself, being aware of the engine temp.
That is the reason why my bike in summer (20°C) starts cold (engine at 20°C), IN GEAR, via e-start, WITHOUT throttle instantly
That is the reason why it won't do so at 3°C (oil too thick for the idle power for low rpm summer idle).
As you can see the throttle cracking is totally unnecessary. It is a very rude, coarse method of
transitioning from above CO driven idle mixture processing towards Power Tuner Mapping processing.
1st, when your adjusting the throttle rpm with the grey knob, is this also re adjusting the tps sensor?...........NO
2nd when your pulling the grey knob out (cold start) are you now coming off the idle / co setting and are now in the low portion of the fi map?.......NO
I have tried several TPS settings and nothing helped the bike to start better.
Edited by WRF-Rowdy, December 19, 2015 - 01:22 AM.