Yamaha FI Diagnostic tool - WR450 specific



150 replies to this topic
  • drdanbozeman

Posted July 06, 2015 - 11:20 AM

#1

The initial writeup for this is in the YZ450 thread. I have translated the directions to be specific to the WR450

 

Thanks to Navaho6 for the initial write-up of how to use the Yamaha FI diagnostic tool to reset CO levels. I just received my tool and reset the CO level, very easy once you fabricate a blade terminal for the green wire. My write-up is specific to 2012+ WR450F. Thanks to WRF-Rowdy for his clarifications on tool use.

 

Yamaha FI Diagnostic Tool -

WR450F Directions for resetting CO level

 

  1. Have the ignition key and power button turned OFF!
  2. Page 9-26 Yamaha [2012] Owners' Service Manual WR450FB: Remove the seat, open the air filter cover. Disconnect the coupler for the connecting optional part [poor translation from Japanese]
  3. Hook the alligator clamps from the diagnostic tool to the bike's battery.  Display on tool will read "connecting" but it is not really connecting.  You must complete step 4 below before the tool will do anything.  Do not press any buttons until you get to step 4. 
  4. Insert the blade terminal [that you have fabricated and that is attached to the green wire of the diagnostic tool] into the middle terminal of the coupler for the connecting optional part. Here is a link to a picture of the "coupler for the connecting optional part" on ThumperTalk taken by WRF-Rowdy [yellow ellipse] http://www.thumperta...ttach_id=239242
  5. While holding the "Mode" button down on the tool, turn on the bike's key and press the ignition button to power up, then release the "Mode" button. The word "Diag" now shows on tool's display. 
  6. Press the up button.  "CO" shows up on tool's display
  7. Press the "Mode" button . "C1" shows on display.
  8. Press "Mode" button again.  "C1"  shows up with a "0" next to it.  Now you are ready to set the CO Level.
  9. Pressed the up button and display of "0" increases to "1", to set a negative CO reading press the down button.
  10. Continued pressing the up or down button until you get the desired CO setting. The new CO level is now set.  Apparently a negative CO setting results in better starting [stock setting of zero and positive settings are too rich, especially at altitude], for example, go with -8 initially.
  11. Disconnect alligator clamps from battery.
  12. Disconnect tool from the "coupler for the connecting optional part"
  13. Reinsert the coupler for the connecting optional part back into its receptacle.  
  14. Close the air filter cover and reinstall the seat.
  15. You can now start your bike. Ride the bike and test it. Reset CO level if required to improve starting.

If this description need corrections let me know.



  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted July 06, 2015 - 09:32 PM

#2

Yepp:

- you can start the bike while in CO adjustment mode

- you can adjust the CO values while the bike is idling, that's the reason it shows rpm while adjusting CO

- the tool needs the mode button held down + power (12V), BEFORE you power the ECU, otherwise it won't go into CO adj. mode.

- that means powering it up synchronously with the ECU, even with the mode button held down, won't get you to adjustment mode


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, July 06, 2015 - 09:34 PM.


  • chittyrox

Posted August 04, 2015 - 04:14 PM

#3

Question about this. The f.i. tool includes two different extensions. One extension has the battery terminals + green terminal hook up on it, then goes straight to the f.i. tool 4-pin connection (labelled "battery terminals and diagnosis connector).

The other extension has a 3-pin triangular plug (labelled "diagnosis coupler"), then goes straight to the f.i. tool 4-pin connection.

Is there any reason why folks can't use the simpler extension and not need to use the battery terminal hook up ?
I've been asked this question, and not sure of the answer because I never tried it that way. Don't want to risk frying anything. Or I'm also wondering if the simpler extension is for adjustment of the TPS as well?

Edited by chittyrox, August 04, 2015 - 04:17 PM.


  • chu

Posted August 04, 2015 - 05:49 PM

#4

http://www.thumperta...3#entry12511449


Edited by chu, August 04, 2015 - 05:54 PM.


  • chu

Posted August 04, 2015 - 05:53 PM

#5

That thread ^ kind of explains how to do it.  You have to change the 12V switched to a 12V constant to be able to get into CO mode.  Diagnostic tool has to power up before the ignition to do that.  I'd do it but mine came with a triangle shaped connector.  I think I have one of those connectors on the stock speedometer that I'm not using.  Maybe I'll give it a try.  It would be nice to not have to take off the seat.


Edited by chu, August 04, 2015 - 06:09 PM.


  • chittyrox

Posted August 04, 2015 - 06:51 PM

#6

Thanks for that chu, makes sense. I figured there would be some changes made to this since I first recieved my f.i. WR450F. Thanks for pointing out that thread. It looks like I was choosing the wrong keywords for the search.

Much thanks and happy riding !!

Edited by chittyrox, August 04, 2015 - 06:52 PM.


  • msawyer420

Posted August 05, 2015 - 09:22 AM

#7

Changed mine to +8. Runs great

  • BajaFool

Posted August 05, 2015 - 10:25 AM

#8

msawyer420,
Drdanbozman's instructions stated that the factory CO2 setting of 0 was too rich for easy starting and richer settings compounded the problem. He suggested a setting of -8 and working toward richer as needed.

You say that your bike "runs great" at a CO2 setting of +8. Does "runs great" include "starts easy" also? There seems to be a conflict here, assuming + is richer and - is leaner. Did someone mis-type a + for a - in this discussion thread ?

  • drdanbozeman

Posted August 06, 2015 - 11:16 AM

#9

msawyer420,
Drdanbozman's instructions stated that the factory CO2 setting of 0 was too rich for easy starting and richer settings compounded the problem. He suggested a setting of -8 and working toward richer as needed.

You say that your bike "runs great" at a CO2 setting of +8. Does "runs great" include "starts easy" also? There seems to be a conflict here, assuming + is richer and - is leaner. Did someone mis-type a + for a - in this discussion thread ?

 

 

No, it was meant to be a -8 [minus 8]. I was going by WRF-Rowdy's comment in another thread that at a stock CO setting of 0 [zero] that the bike is in fact too rich [this contradicts just about everyone else's thought on the subject, since the bike is set lean to meet CARB requirements in its stock form].

 

All from thread: 2012 WR450 Starting woes

Posted January 07, 2014 - 05:21 PM greyracer

I did not read all 321 replies to this thread, but something I noticed in an early post was this:

 

Corkster, on 17 Aug 2012 - 4:32 PM, said:

Clearly not the problem for this post. If the bike starts with the cold start button when hot, the idle is too lean, not too rich....

 

Here, the OP makes the errant assumption that the cold start knob richens the mixture, when in fact, it is a simple bypass air bleed (also controls idle speed).  The fuel mix is enriched for cold starting by the ECU using information from the coolant sensor.  Either cracking the throttle or using the cold start knob when warm has been something that has worked for problematic starting issues on the 2010+ YZ450 pretty much since it came out. 

 

From March 7, 2014 gamester

Yamaha recommends a setting of +7 FYI – Note: not sure where this information was obtained from

 

July 17, 2014 mebgardner

15 is too high, and I believe that much should be considered a "race" setting, intended for racing conditions. That is, if you're heading to a race, then set it higher. if not, then lower is better. 7-9 should be a good setting for a bike, for non-race conditions.

 

July 17, 2-14 vlxiim

No way, a CO of 15 is not to high. The sniffer at 20 is right there but its a little to fat to me. I don't race and run 15 as do many that have PM'ed me about my vlxjim map and CO 15 setting. Everyone that has used this setting that I know of is likes at the results.

 

July 21, 2014 vlxiim

Trust me if you could get a hold of an FI tool or have the dealer bump you to 15 your song would be different on this board. It does make a big difference.

 

October 22, 2014 wizbangdoodle

From the 2012 WR450F Technical Orientation Guide: The starter plunger is actually an air bypass port (not a choke), which allows air to enter into the intake tract resulting in a lower intake pressure reading. The ECU receives this signal from the intake pressure sensor and increases the fuel/air mixture so it is richer by adjusting the injector duration.

So, while it is not technically a choke, it essentially does the same thing. It's just fooling the ECU.

November 4, 2014 wizbangdoodle

I am happy to report that my bike is starting much better when hot now. Went on a good ride this last weekend and it only failed to fire on the first try once.  Much better than before. My CO is set at 13 from a base of 0.

 

I re-read the whole StartingWoes thread and do not think every 2012+ WR450 acts the same. Last year I rented the FI tool and set my CO to +8; the bike did not start easier, would require pulling the cold start knob for hot start [which from the above quote enriches the fuel/air mix], and I was experiencing flame outs when closing the throttle - even with a Z-start Pro clutch. So needing to pull the cold start knob would say the bike was set too lean even at +8.

 

Purchased the Yamaha branded FI tool and set the CO to -8, did not significantly change starting ease. Set CO at -4 where I'm riding now, seems to start easier cold or hot, don't have flame outs as often, less backfire when closing throttle and coasting. I have not noticed any overheating or red hot headers. I'll try this for a while. If it turns out not to work I'll go way up to +12-13 as some have done and see if that makes a difference


Edited by drdanbozeman, August 06, 2015 - 11:18 AM.


  • drdanbozeman

Posted August 22, 2015 - 01:47 PM

#10

I have done quite a bit of testing on rides since writing post #1 above and have agreed with what has been thought all along about the hard starting issues with the 2012+ FI WR450 - it is set too lean from the factory in order to meet EPA/CARB certification for air quality. My initial instructions for setting the CO with the FI diagnostic tool included:

 

10. Continued pressing the up or down button until you get the desired CO setting. The new CO level is now set.  Apparently a negative CO setting results in better starting [stock setting of zero and positive settings are too rich, especially at altitude], for example, go with -8 initially.

 

I now correct this - because - I have constantly needed to pull the cold start knob or turn the throttle to the "reference lines" molded into the grip in order to start the bike cold. I almost always need to pull the cold start knob in order to start after the bike is hot. Both of these actions result in a richer fuel/air mixture. Hence the suggestion by WRF-Rowdy that the bike was too rich does not correlate with my experience. He measured the CO with a sensor, and found it to be high, but I went from a CO of +8 to -4 and had no improvement in starting, SOS of needing to richen the fuel/air to start. I changed the CO to a setting of +12, and NOW, for the first time in 3 riding seasons, my bike starts hot or cold by simply hitting the e-start button once, maybe twice with no cold start knob or throttle changes.

 

This is how the bike should start...


Edited by drdanbozeman, August 22, 2015 - 01:49 PM.


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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 22, 2015 - 02:02 PM

#11

I'm not sure I understand:

 

Does not the GYTR set Air Fuel ratios at idle already?

 

Why is the FI Diagnostic tool needed ?



  • AtomicGeo

Posted August 22, 2015 - 05:31 PM

#12

I have done quite a bit of testing on rides since writing post #1 above and have agreed with what has been thought all along about the hard starting issues with the 2012+ FI WR450 - it is set too lean from the factory in order to meet EPA/CARB certification for air quality. My initial instructions for setting the CO with the FI diagnostic tool included:

 

10. Continued pressing the up or down button until you get the desired CO setting. The new CO level is now set.  Apparently a negative CO setting results in better starting [stock setting of zero and positive settings are too rich, especially at altitude], for example, go with -8 initially.

 

I now correct this - because - I have constantly needed to pull the cold start knob or turn the throttle to the "reference lines" molded into the grip in order to start the bike cold. I almost always need to pull the cold start knob in order to start after the bike is hot. Both of these actions result in a richer fuel/air mixture. Hence the suggestion by WRF-Rowdy that the bike was too rich does not correlate with my experience. He measured the CO with a sensor, and found it to be high, but I went from a CO of +8 to -4 and had no improvement in starting, SOS of needing to richen the fuel/air to start. I changed the CO to a setting of +12, and NOW, for the first time in 3 riding seasons, my bike starts hot or cold by simply hitting the e-start button once, maybe twice with no cold start knob or throttle changes.

 

This is how the bike should start...

 

 

I don't know what everbody else has done...

 

I live at altitude (7400 ft), a +12 on the CO setting gives me the best e-start performance.


Edited by AtomicGeo, August 22, 2015 - 05:31 PM.


  • chu

Posted August 23, 2015 - 04:12 AM

#13

I'm not sure I understand:

 

Does not the GYTR set Air Fuel ratios at idle already?

 

Why is the FI Diagnostic tool needed ?

I don't know.  There's an 1/8 throttle 3000 rpm cell on the tuner, but it seems like 0/8 throttle is controlled by the CO number.  When the TPS is set to the low end of spec it's hard to ride smooth when you're crawling around in first.  It like you can feel a different map kick in when the TPS goes outside of idle spec.



  • drdanbozeman

Posted August 23, 2015 - 05:29 AM

#14

I don't know what everbody else has done...

 

I live at altitude (7400 ft), a +12 on the CO setting gives me the best e-start performance.

 

I was thinking about that after I posted. Perhaps riders living at different altitudes will need different CO setting to get good starting, but it seems those of us that live at altitude find that a richer setting works better, e.g. +12. I ride at 4800-9000 ft ASL



  • puffoxr

Posted September 24, 2015 - 10:26 AM

#15

Hy,
I bought the FI tool. Connected as per your instructions and everything has gone OK. I set the CO to 10 and as soon as the rain will stop I'll try it abd I'll let you know how does it work.
I saw that it is possible also to see with the diag menu the situation of the sensors but, due to the really poor info on the "manual", I don't know if it is possible to reset errors or change others sensors' settings.
Do someone has a small guide or suggestions to use the FI tool also for other settings?
Thanks to everyone!
Paolo

  • puffoxr

Posted October 26, 2015 - 11:01 PM

#16

Up to know my wr 2012 seems to start better with a CO set at minus values. Now it's set at -10 and it seems to start better. Trials are going on....but I have few time to test it in this period.... :-(
Ciao
Paolo

  • jams33

Posted November 29, 2015 - 05:36 PM

#17

Hi all, I'm desperately trying to get hold of an FI tool. Would someone post a link to where I can get one? I've been searching everywhere just can't find one. Prob being dumb but please help!

Thanks

Edited by jams33, November 29, 2015 - 05:37 PM.


  • puffoxr

Posted December 02, 2015 - 04:54 AM

#18

Hi all, I'm desperately trying to get hold of an FI tool. Would someone post a link to where I can get one? I've been searching everywhere just can't find one. Prob being dumb but please help!
Thanks


http://www.off-the-r...statt-Werkzeug/

I bought there one month ago
Ciao

  • Bass Mechanic

Posted December 02, 2015 - 05:35 AM

#19

Every time I read one of these threads I just have to LOL if only the guys who have starting issues would just learn to crack the throttle when pressing the start button as is indicated in the owners manual your bike will start every time!
I have a 2013 and my buddy has a 2015 and they both had starting issues like everyone here describes.
After I showed my buddy how to start it, he has never had to press the button more than 1 time on any of the rides we have been on hot or cold, in gear or not it always starts!

So let me clarify what will not work
It won't start if you use NO throttle, it won't start if you attempt to add throttle while cranking. It will not start if the throttle is open too much. It won't start if you have to much and adjust while cranking.

Ok with that said, you can use the alignment marks on the throttle if you like, I prefer to just feel it. The only way I can describe it is to twist the throttle so you can tell that you've taken the slack out of the cable and just barely cracked the throttle blade open.
In the nearly 3 years and 110 hours on my wr i have never even touched the enrichment plunger even when it was 32 degrees out, in fact I've started it close to 0 F without ever doing anything but crack the gas and hit the button. I have a voyager computer and for reference if I start and hold the throttle in the same place the bike idles at about 2400 rpm ( factory spec is 2100 and I set mine to 1700)
Now just to further prove my point, my bike has the exhaust cam re-degreed to the YZ spec and I have the comp ecu
My friends bike is totally stock and they both start exactly the same way.
Rather than waste your time and money trying to adjust the c0 level which was already stated here had little affect, I recommend you buy an earth x battery which will save you 5 lbs but more importantly will give you a much more aggressive starter which also helps especially when in gear.

I am gong to prove my point 1 step further!
The group I ride with also has a husquvarna, KTM and suzuki and a newer YZ 450 which are all fuel injected!
THEY ALL HAVE PROBLEMS STARTING UNLESS YOU CRACK THE THROTTLE!!

I've watched those guys kick and kick and press the button with the same result until I suggested they try cracking the throttle!
Now each bike fires up on the first press or kick every time!

So for those of you who are having this issue for the love of God!!! Please try following this advice! It is simple, free and stated in your owners manual!

I recently almost bought a 2016 KTM 450 xc and experienced the EXACT SAME ISSUE cracked the throttle with no choke/enrichment while cold and again while hot at the dealer and had same results as I expressed above.

The only way this bike will start every time without touching the gas is if you turn up the idle to 2400 rpm which I do not recommend. But if your too lazy or simply cannot follow instructions that may be your best bet.

 

Another point to further support my observation.. another poster above reported the dealer had left the enrichment on and that is why the bike was starting so well..

the plunger does nothing more then allow more air into the intake. it is the exact same thing as cracking the throttle open with the exception that the TPS is being rotated slightly.

the TPS tells the ecu where the throttle position is. this information tells the ecu that a little more fuel is also needed.

the plunger is just an easier way to hold the idle at a higher setting as the bike warms up.

 

if you try to use enrichment when the bike is hot it will make it lean because the ecu only adds fuel when the water temp is cold.

Now go out to the garage and follow this exactly, no enrichment, in neutral, crack, hold, press bingo!

If you would like I can make you a you tube video trying to start it in ANY other configuration and it will crank, crank away with no luck, crack the gas and bingo! Every time!

i also find that the bike needs slightly less throttle when hot and sometimes it will start with no throttle when hot, but to make sure it fires i find just a slight amount just like when cold gets it to fire every single time.

If any of you don't believe me, you can pay 200.00 of my plane ticket fully refundable if I am wrong and I'll show you how to start your bike!

Happy trails!


Edited by Bass Mechanic, December 02, 2015 - 06:24 AM.


  • jams33

Posted December 05, 2015 - 12:14 AM

#20

http://www.off-the-r...statt-Werkzeug/
I bought there one month ago
Ciao


Thanks




 
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