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BIG BRAKE KITS!

By yzUSMCf,
in YZ400F/426F/450F/450FX

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yzUSMCf

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How's it goin?! I'm looking into getting a 270mm front brake kit for my 2014 yz450f. This bike hauls ass now i need it to stop all that ass. It just doesn't stop like I need it too. I'm looking at the galfer and tusk kit both same price just different look but the tusk is floating and the galfer is solid I've only rode with stock floating on the bikes I've owned. Does anyone have experience with the 2 types and brands of rotors?? Trying to decide.. I'm leaning twards galfer.

Also..pads? My stock pads are in good shape with lots of life left do I need to purchase new ones with the kit? If so why type do you recommend?

Thanks!!

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GHILL28
GHILL28

I just got rid of the entire front brake, put on a CRF full system, oversize rotor, and steel line.  If you're serious about braking, that's really the only way to go.  I don't know why there's such a

GHILL28
GHILL28

Looks the same as a YZF system except the banjo is on the other side of the MC body.   Any '08 and later will have the link-driven master cylinder/lever.  I think they changed caliper piston sizes

Hans Schmid
Hans Schmid

Heat cycle. Bring the bike up to speed in first, hit the brake. Ride around for a bit to let the rotor cool, then do the same thing. Being bike up to speed, etc etc. You need to set the pads into the

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grayracer513

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I can't speak to the difference in the rotor kits, except to say that I'm not overall a fan of Tusk products in general.  All of them are re-branded stuff, and the quality varies quite a bit from one item to the next because Tusk has no control over the manufacturing processes.  Galfer, on the other hand is a well respected brake parts outfit.

 

Having said that, I would prefer a floater to a solid rotor in front, especially if you're going to use it that hard.  They handle heat better, all things being equal. 

 

As to pads, wait.  Try your OEM pads first.  If you like your pads, you can keep your pads.  One thing that bears on the matter is what the rotor is made of.  OEM rotors are usually stainless, whereas many of the aftermarket rotors are carbon steel.  Carbon steel will rust, off course, but it also produces more friction with most common brake pads than SS does.  If you still need a more aggressive brake, you can step up to brake pads from a later CRF450; they have a little more bite.

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Hans Schmid

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I've been running a Galfer 270mm unit for a couple years on different bikes. The stock Yamaha pads are poor performing so I have switched to a sintered pad. The brakes are incredibly strong but progressive. I am running the stock brake line but will be switching to the Galfer unit shortly for added performance...

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GHILL28

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I just got rid of the entire front brake, put on a CRF full system, oversize rotor, and steel line.  If you're serious about braking, that's really the only way to go.  I don't know why there's such a thing as sub-par brakes on performance dirt bikes in this day and age.

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grayracer513

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Preferences.  Some people like a one finger brake, some want one that won't dump them on their face when the grab a whole handful of it.  Personally, I like a good strong front brake, but one that requires a focused, deliberate effort to lock up entirely, and is progressive, with a lot of feedback.

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jcm3

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Good thread.

 

Does it make any sense to do it in stages?  Has anyone done any of the individual things to see what seems to work and what doesn't work well?

 

There are several options, and not sure if it would make sense to do them in any order, or completely skip some and do others based on cost and return on investment (like going straight to an oversized rotor kit and skipping the ss line).

 

- flushing the brake fluid with new

- new pads

- ss brake line

- oversized rotor kit

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Hans Schmid

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Good thread.

Does it make any sense to do it in stages? Has anyone done any of the individual things to see what seems to work and what doesn't work well?

There are several options, and not sure if it would make sense to do them in any order, or completely skip some and do others based on cost and return on investment (like going straight to an oversized rotor kit and skipping the ss line).

- flushing the brake fluid with new

- new pads

- ss brake line

- oversized rotor kit

Did just that last year...

https://www.thumpertalk.com/reviews/product/8421-galfer-brakes-oversize-wave-rotor-kit/

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yzUSMCf

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Well I ordered the floating tusk rotor hear good things about it . I noticed all the high end kits are floating so I figured it was for a good reason. I like a 1 finger brake like I used to have on my downhill mountain bike. I also got a set of nutron sintered pads that were on sale for 10$ I'll let you guys know what I think. and later I will get a ss line.

What do you guys mean when you say "progressive " feel?

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yzUSMCf

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I just got rid of the entire front brake, put on a CRF full system, oversize rotor, and steel line. If you're serious about braking, that's really the only way to go. I don't know why there's such a thing as sub-par brakes on performance dirt bikes in this day and age.

what year crf did you steal the caliper and m cylnder from? Pics?
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GHILL28

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What DH bike/what brakes were you used to?

 

I can only hope that one day someone will make a full brake system for a moto as nice as my Hope Tech V4's that I have on my DH bike.  The braking feel and modulation and sheer power on those is glorious.  The stiffness of the caliper and line is evident when you use them and really need to lay on the power.

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GHILL28

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what year crf did you steal the caliper and m cylnder from? Pics?

 

Looks the same as a YZF system except the banjo is on the other side of the MC body.

 

Any '08 and later will have the link-driven master cylinder/lever.  I think they changed caliper piston sizes somewhere around '12/'13/'14.  I have a '13 on one of my bikes and a '14 on the other.

 

Can find a full system on EBay for $100 readily.  Steel line, new pads, cheapo oversize rotor and full Honda front system can be all had for ~$300.

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Hans Schmid

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Well I ordered the floating tusk rotor hear good things about it . I noticed all the high end kits are floating so I figured it was for a good reason. I like a 1 finger brake like I used to have on my downhill mountain bike. I also got a set of nutron sintered pads that were on sale for 10$ I'll let you guys know what I think. and later I will get a ss line.

What do you guys mean when you say "progressive " feel?

Gradual increase in performance. The harder you pull, the better they work. Some bikes (KTM) can be very light switch like, very on/off which can be hard to modulate...

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yzUSMCf

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What DH bike/what brakes were you used to?

I can only hope that one day someone will make a full brake system for a moto as nice as my Hope Tech V4's that I have on my DH bike. The braking feel and modulation and sheer power on those is glorious. The stiffness of the caliper and line is evident when you use them and really need to lay on the power.

it's been been awhile since I rode but I beleve it was Hayes system. I think they are so much more effective than mx because you have about 240lbs less to stop lol
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yzUSMCf

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Gradual increase in performance. The harder you pull, the better they work. Some bikes (KTM) can be very light switch like, very on/off which can be hard to modulate...

figured. With the current brakes this bike has I have to squeeze the hell out of them to stop fast and that burns my forearm out quickly. DH has tough me good brake controll with one finger.
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1snotrocket

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The best front brake set up that I have ran to date on a yz.The one I got done by Larry brooks at chaperral motor sports.I had the GYTR set up and my son still got brake fade.I had Larry brooks build me his front brake set up with me supplying the Yamaha master and caliper.The braking pressure is very progressive and predictable. I did keep the over size braking rotor.But I honestly believe with his set up you could get away with out using it.

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