Help first bike WR 450 problems


21 replies to this topic
  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:43 AM

#1

Hi guys,
Need some advice, I've just bought my first bike a 2004 wr 450.
Anyway I was told it had no issues and just wasn't needed. The owner delivered and at the time I was looking after my baby so didn't really have time to look at it before I handed over the cash. Big mistake!

Anyway the clutch won't disengage, the chain and sprocket is shot. The kick start is hanging off and the entire thing is held together with cable ties.

I was so looking forward to owning my first wr but looks like I've bought another project.

So my question is can any of you guys help me out with some advice?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 25, 2015 - 07:46 AM

#2

So you are saying you bought it without inspecting it at all?

Not sure what to say....

What specifically do you want help with?

Edited by KRANNIE, June 25, 2015 - 07:47 AM.


  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 08:16 AM

#3

In his defence I paid near $1000 dollars under market value so I should expect some issues.

Main one is the clutch, it's dragging bad in gear to the extent it stall. I pulled the plates earlier and visually inspected them..saying that I don't really know what to look for.

Is it worth changing the oil before changing out the clutch?

From memory the basket didn't lock notched

  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted June 25, 2015 - 08:55 AM

#4

From memory the basket didn't lock notched

Assuming you did check/adjust the clutch cable already,

get a fresh set of both steel and friction plate, and do soak the friction plates over night in engine oil before installing, each plate separately.

Make sure you know hot to install them or at least read the service manual on that topic

http://www.ymenvom.n...uals/M5TJ41.PDF



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 09:02 AM

#5

I've tried adjusted the clutch on the lever, you can slip the clutch in the move the bike along but as soon as you completely release the clutch it will then not disengage, you can hardly push the bike in gear.

  • flyandride

Posted June 25, 2015 - 09:07 AM

#6

Hi guys,

Anyway the clutch won't disengage, the chain and sprocket is shot. The kick start is hanging off and the entire thing is held together with cable ties.

 

Chain and sprocket sets are not too expensive.  At least the previous owner used cable ties and not rubber bands, string or duct tape.  When you buy your second bike, look it over carefully.  



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 09:10 AM

#7

Yeah I should know better, I think I got what I paid for, once I've replaced all the parts I need it will still be cheap and at least everything is new. I was Hoping it would at least be rideable.

  • zderekv

Posted June 25, 2015 - 09:41 AM

#8

Not unusual for a used bike to need a chain and sprockets ... and a clutch ... and tires. Would have been nice if the guy was up front with you instead of taking the cash and running.

I wouldn't worry so much about the clutch dragging or the bike not rolling while in gear just yet. Yes, do an oil change but more for inspection than anything. Check the oil for grit. Get the bike running before you worry about replacing the clutch. If it does need a clutch I'd recommend pulling the old clutch out and check the steels. If they're grooved or you see any bluing or heat marks replace all disks. Otherwise mic them to see if they are within spec. If so scuff the steels lightly with a Schotchbrite and replace only the frictions and springs. Replace the cable while you're at it - cheap insurance. As mentioned above soak your new frictions in motor oil overnight before installing. Good luck.

  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 09:45 AM

#9

Cheers derek, I noticed the steels had black marks, im assuming by the heat..
Honestly it's just been badly uncared for. I've spent hours just cleaning. I'll get a clutch on order and try and upload some pictures..
Another issue I have is fork seals, they were replaced a few months back but one has already failed. Also forks don't seem to have any recoil

  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 11:39 AM

#10

IMAG0001_zpsxahkuudc.jpg
Here's the bike in question.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 25, 2015 - 01:17 PM

#11

I've tried adjusted the clutch on the lever, you can slip the clutch in the move the bike along but as soon as you completely release the clutch it will then not disengage, you can hardly push the bike in gear.

 

That is normal. When the motor gets real hot, it will get better, but unless you replace everything, and adjust the lever to be too far off the bar, it will always drag.



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 01:31 PM

#12

Thanks for the advice krannie, how do I get on riding? It stalls when In gear, how do I up the idle? It struggles to tick over.

  • jmd426

Posted June 25, 2015 - 02:18 PM

#13

Thanks for the advice krannie, how do I get on riding? It stalls when In gear, how do I up the idle? It struggles to tick over.

Did you look closely at the clutch basket and clutch hub?  Its not that uncommon to see them grooved bad and this will cause the clutch to drag because the plates are caught in the grooves, can also make the clutch slip. Here are some examples of what im talking about

 

https://www.google.c...z125%2F;568;426


Edited by jmd426, June 25, 2015 - 02:25 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 25, 2015 - 05:03 PM

#14

Thanks for the advice krannie, how do I get on riding? It stalls when In gear, how do I up the idle? It struggles to tick over.

 

You need to adjust the lever for 1/8" of play when HOT.

You warm up the motor, blip the throttle, and put it in gear at the same time. 

You should feel it drag a bit, but not much.

If you will not go into gear without stalling, you have another problem, like stuck plates or badly warped plates, or a worn out push rod and cam.

 

Virtually all of my bikes will stall if you put it in gear when running with a cold motor, as I have the clutch lever adjusted for my preffered reach, not maxium pull.



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 25, 2015 - 10:12 PM

#15

Cheers the bike is fine in gear with the clutch in, it's when you release the clutch fully. Then it will not disengage, just bought plates and chain and sprocket kit.

  • bobpara

Posted June 26, 2015 - 11:07 AM

#16

sounds like something is boogeredin the release mechanism, not so much the cable or the plates



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 26, 2015 - 12:37 PM

#17

I'll change the plates out and see what happens, fixed the kick start tonight. The lever was worn out. I welded in some extra material and it's loads better.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 26, 2015 - 04:20 PM

#18

Cheers the bike is fine in gear with the clutch in, it's when you release the clutch fully. Then it will not disengage, just bought plates and chain and sprocket kit.

 

I don't understand this explanation.

 

Releasing the clutch lever causes engagment, not disengagement....



  • doubledoyle

Posted June 26, 2015 - 09:56 PM

#19

Sorry once you have fully engaged first it will then not separate when you pull the clutch in.

  • PacoPaez

Posted June 27, 2015 - 11:05 AM

#20

I had problems with my clutch replaced the clutch and ended up being the cable hangin on by a few strands of cable my 2 cents paco




 
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