I was running vlxjim's map.
3 4 4 0 0 0
3 5 3 -2 -1 0
3 4 3 -2 -2 0
But modified it to this.
2 3 3 0 0 1
2 4 2 -1 0 1
2 3 2 -1 -1 1
I liked vlxjim's map but find the new one has a bit better fuel economy and snap. I have my CO set to 7, I think I'll try some different settings. See if I can improve my hot starting. Although the modfied map above did improve the hot starting some. My fix for hot starting, is to crank the bike over at WOT for about 2 seconds and then start it normally.
At one point I thought about getting an air/fuel meter that I could properly map the bike with. But I'm sure I'll just stick with trial and error.
But IIRC the fuel map is the left one, so +4 equals 8% more fuel
So both mappings are way richer than stock, no wonder your milage is lacking, you are cooling you engine with excessive fuel
and -2 for ignition means "later" e.g. ignite the charge later, another way of getting LESS power from a certain amount of fuel:
I remember the CDI of a buddy of mine die only partly: It was only igniting at TDC, w/o rpm dependend advancement.
Good for starting, absolutely horrible lack of power when riding. Someone told me that there is a "stupid" fall back mechanism
that fires the plug at the trailing edge of the ignition timing strip on the flywheel, sufficient for starting.
Only when the engine has picked up speed and the CDI has a stable input voltage the processor kicks in and
calculates ignition advancing after being triggered by the andvancing edge of the ignition timing strip.
That way a dead processor circuity will not have you stranded completely.
We Long Range Travellers want to be at the lean side of lambda=1, w/o frying the engine, that is.
For range I'd pick something like "Woods/Tight Trail" except for the excessivly late ignition timing.
But then again maybe I got the PowerTuner's signs mixed up, gotta check the book...
Edited by WRF-Rowdy, June 15, 2015 - 09:31 AM.