clutch push rod


18 replies to this topic
  • Clutchup

Posted June 01, 2015 - 03:43 PM

#1

so i got a question i installed a new tusk clutch and its ok drags alot and acts funny when hot but regardless i have a new cable and clutch and my adjustments are maxed out and i thought by replacing my clutch i would fix this. but im thinking something else is warn that i didnt notice when i did the clutch. what could cause the cable adjustment to be maxed out like i have a streatched cable? i was thinking mayby i need a new pushrod.? im using a rsc easy pull lever and perch.

 

thanks for any help or ideas :thumbsup:  :ride:



  • grayracer513

Posted June 02, 2015 - 06:39 AM

#2

Your problem is the "bargain" clutch kit.  The plates are not made to the correct specs for your bike. They're too thick, and not firm enough.  However, at least some of these problems may abate slightly as the clutch wears.



  • Slow and Jerky

Posted June 02, 2015 - 07:31 AM

#3

Gray is right, I did the same thing on my 06. I ran the Tusk for about a month, the clutch was always a little draggy and when they got hot I could not get it to disengage at all, which was pretty terrible on one trail in particular. Assuming you bought them from Rocky Mtn. they will most likely take them back. Either way I suggest you get rid of them and put an OEM set in.



  • Clutchup

Posted June 02, 2015 - 01:49 PM

#4

Ok makes sense as for the clutch adjustment being all the way out like i have a streteched cable could the be a worn pushrod? Any way to tell or mesure?

  • grayracer513

Posted June 02, 2015 - 02:08 PM

#5

You don't have a worn push rod, you have an excessively thick clutch pack.

 

That much wear on the push rod would be obvious as mushrooming, etc. 



  • Clutchup

Posted June 02, 2015 - 02:18 PM

#6

I had a stock clutch in it before and that clutch was the same way and spot on the adjustment just the tusk drag

  • Clutchup

Posted June 02, 2015 - 02:20 PM

#7

Im gona be spliting the case soon when i take the clutch apart ill double check the pushrod if something dosent look right ill take a picture and post

Edited by Clutchup, June 02, 2015 - 02:22 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted June 02, 2015 - 02:36 PM

#8

No need to split the cases for that, you know.  Remove the clutch pressure plate and draw it out with a magnet or a pair of needle nose.

 

Note that there should be a 10mm ball (item # 21 below) in between the push rod (22) and the short push rod (17).  The inboard end of the short rod rod will have a socket for it.  Be sure it's there.

Attached Thumbnails

  • parts2.png


  • Clutchup

Posted June 02, 2015 - 03:00 PM

#9

Yeah i know i dont have to split the case but i am replacing my crank it had seized do while i split my case to change my crank i was gona try to sort out my clutch problem. I know those parts you are talking about are in thete becase when i split the case the first time to change my tranny gears i took the clutch all apart and didnt see anything worn.

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  • Clutchup

Posted June 03, 2015 - 09:59 AM

#10

Here is what my pushrod looks like im pretty sure its mushroomed it also has a sharp lip i think this is whats causing the worn clutch symptoms being that the rod is too short by a hair and makes it look like a stretched cable or worn

  • Clutchup

Posted June 03, 2015 - 10:03 AM

#11

Here is what my pushrod looks like im pretty sure its mushroomed it also has a sharp lip i think this is whats causing the worn clutch symptoms being that the rod is too short by a hair and makes it look like a stretched cable or worn



https://www.dropbox.... 16 pm.jpg?dl=0

  • grayracer513

Posted June 03, 2015 - 11:10 AM

#12

That's been used without the ball between it and the short push rod. 



  • Clutchup

Posted June 03, 2015 - 03:20 PM

#13

That's been used without the ball between it and the short push rod. 

yeah idk how i just installed my crank and i was looking at the push rod when i was reinstalling it and the liitle ball goes in between the long and short pushrod by the clutch basket right? i checked and it does have the ball in there for sure i check and rechecked haha and the mushroomed side is my the clutch arm so how does the ball effect the end trying to understand how it works with that ball.  thanks gray for the help



  • grayracer513

Posted June 04, 2015 - 06:29 AM

#14

If it's the end that runs on the arm, the ball has no effect.  You should inspect the face of the arm for an excess of matching wear.



  • Clutchup

Posted June 04, 2015 - 07:59 AM

#15

If it's the end that runs on the arm, the ball has no effect.  You should inspect the face of the arm for an excess of matching wear.

yeah you can see a little bit of wear on the pivit arm so  im gona replace both and see how it goes. 

 

got another question for you i recently found a deal on ebay for a new piston and 2 used cylinders one needs to be sleeved and one was to be in good condition i reveived it today and this is what the cylinder looks like is this even usable? this is the cylinder marked usable. also as for sleeves are they good to do? instead of buying a new cylinder. i want something that will last? but not trying to spend a crap ton on oem price.

 

Photo Jun 04, 11 33 38 AM.jpg Photo Jun 04, 11 37 19 AM.jpg Photo Jun 04, 11 37 37 AM.jpg Photo Jun 04, 11 38 01 AM.jpg Photo Jun 04, 11 39 10 AM.jpg



  • grayracer513

Posted June 05, 2015 - 06:30 AM

#16

Can't use it like that, no.  But neither of them needs to be sleeved.  Because the cylinders are 100% aluminum with a hard plating applied to the bore, they can simply be replated in most cases, and even in the event that there is deeper damage, that can be welded and bored back to size.  Should cost about $200.

 

Not exactly what you wanted if you were told it was "in good condition", but not junk, either.



  • Clutchup

Posted June 05, 2015 - 02:33 PM

#17

Can't use it like that, no.  But neither of them needs to be sleeved.  Because the cylinders are 100% aluminum with a hard plating applied to the bore, they can simply be replated in most cases, and even in the event that there is deeper damage, that can be welded and bored back to size.  Should cost about $200.

 

Not exactly what you wanted if you were told it was "in good condition", but not junk, either.

got ya i wasnt sure so i went and bought a oem cylinder and gona keep all 3 cylinders i ended up with haha. 

 

one last question i was reading you old post about oil filters im looking for a good reusable oil filter. what do you think is good and best way to clean them?



  • grayracer513

Posted June 05, 2015 - 02:41 PM

#18

Scotts is by far the best available reusable filter.  They're basically permanent.  They will outlast two bikes.

 

The best way to clean them is to put your fingers over the ends so as to keep any of the cleaning solvent (which might not be that clean) out of the inside of the filter, and swish it around for a bit, then spray it off with carb cleaner or compressed air from inside to out.  The solvent does enter the filter, of course, but only through the mesh itself.

 

You can also wash them with soap and water and then dry them with air or carb cleaner. 



  • Clutchup

Posted June 06, 2015 - 06:09 AM

#19

ok thanks

 

Scotts is by far the best available reusable filter.  They're basically permanent.  They will outlast two bikes.

 

The best way to clean them is to put your fingers over the ends so as to keep any of the cleaning solvent (which might not be that clean) out of the inside of the filter, and swish it around for a bit, then spray it off with carb cleaner or compressed air from inside to out.  The solvent does enter the filter, of course, but only through the mesh itself.

 

You can also wash them with soap and water and then dry them with air or carb cleaner. 

ok thanks for the help







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