Easier clutch pull!!



39 replies to this topic
  • robswr426

Posted March 20, 2002 - 05:19 PM

#21

try your link agine this one don't work

  • raceman_spiff

Posted March 22, 2002 - 09:33 AM

#22

Ok guys I just a new clutch rod arm from my Yamaha dealer, it was for a 98-99 YZ400F. It is exactly 5mm longer than the 00-02 YZ426F arm. It is Yamaha part number 5BE-16381-00-00. I got it for under $30.00, you might check with an online Yamaha parts dealer to see if you can get it any cheaper. This new arm plus my Magura hydraulic clutch will hopefully give my bike YZ80 clutch lever effort, good bye arm pump!

  • 696

Posted March 23, 2002 - 01:25 PM

#23

98yz and Scott in KC have the right idea. I just performed the mod. with the new clutch cable hole and it worked great. I can really tell where the clutch engauges, before I had a pretty good idea, but now it's super easy to tell. Follow Scott in KC's pic's and in 20 min. you will be done. Thanks guys! :)

98zy: Are you still planning on adding the clutch arm? If so please let us know how it works out or why it doesn't work.
696

  • John_Lorenz

Posted March 23, 2002 - 01:35 PM

#24

:) The Guys in Canada are using a actuator arm from old 57 chevy's, leave it to the Kanucks to bring home the technology

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted March 23, 2002 - 01:44 PM

#25

I just bought a Raptor by MSR. :)
best 30bucks I have spent on the 400!! :D
no doubt in my mind!
It is 325% less than stock!
I rode it last nite and dang near pulled the lever THRU the bars!!!!LOL :D
not sure if I like it yet but it has 3 adjustments on it and if I don't like it i can maybe move it to the 2nd notch!
Almost feels like a wore out clutch spring set!
WEIRD!!!!!!!!
Yamaha w/little clutch pull!
I did ride my freinds 00' WR and it felt like it needed a block and tackle to pull it!
So in reallity my 99 was not that bad but I am curious to see how the RAPTOR works out!

  • tp3dxf

Posted March 23, 2002 - 03:18 PM

#26

Just get a MSR Raptor clutch lever and perch for around 35$. Much less work great results.

  • SMP

Posted March 23, 2002 - 07:40 PM

#27

Now that I extended the actuator arm I thought I would complete the package, I picked up a Works Connection clutch lever with bearing and built in decompression lever, this is a very trick lever designed after the CRF's clutch/hotstart lever. I like the bend of the lever over the stock one and the bearing makes a noticable difference.Works Connection

  • Robertski

Posted March 24, 2002 - 07:45 AM

#28

MSR Raptor all the way. EZ to do. Almost forgot it was there!

  • bbeakley

Posted March 26, 2002 - 06:25 PM

#29

I bought an MSR Raptor lever for my bike and I had to laugh at the 325% claim. Let's assume for a minute that it takes 10 pounds force to pull the lever to the bar. 325% of that would be (wait a minute, I need my calculator) er, about 32.5 pounds force. So, it requires 32.5 pounds less force than the stock 10 pounds. That equates to roughly negative 22.5 pounds. So they're telling you that the lever will basically pull itself in without any input from you??

Even if they really meant it the other way around (the stock lever being 325% more than the Raptor), that's still an awful big difference. I noticed a difference, but it darn sure was 3 times more.

Sorry for wasting your time with my babble, but I think marketing guys make funny claims. BTW, I'm an engineer, I instinctively hate marketing guys.

[ March 27, 2002: Message edited by: bbeakley ]

  • BigLou

Posted March 27, 2002 - 02:26 AM

#30

Beakley: If you run the Raptor lever, you have to hold it out until you are ready to use it, then just let'er go! When done, push it back out to the extended position! :D

I machined in the second, closer hole and extended the cable slot like Scott in KC did. Huge difference. I put Tri-Flow on both ends and adjusted. Seems like it's about 30-50% lighter on the pull. Prolly closer to 30%, but it is noticeable. You can hack it in without a mill, but if you have access to a mill, I would definitely give this a shot.

Worked for me! :)

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  • Mxer520

Posted March 27, 2002 - 06:45 PM

#31

i had a 426 and i bought the GYT-R needle bearing lever and the pull was so easy and then i bought a KTM 520 and i cant tell much of a difference in the pull between a hydrolic system and the cable one

  • Pazzo_P

Posted March 28, 2002 - 10:55 PM

#32

Hey BigLou, I also drilled a second hole in my lever and WOW what a difference on the pull,but the biggest difference I noticed was how easily it snapped when my bike fell over after being bumped. "Best have you a spare handy"

  • BigLou

Posted March 28, 2002 - 12:17 PM

#33

LMAO! I did the calculations and sure enough, the likelihood of breaking the lever is directly proportional to how much time you spend on it and how good you make it look!

  • MANIAC998

Posted March 28, 2002 - 04:26 PM

#34

Have any of you guys tried Yamaha part # 3FY-83912-01-00 for $12.52. Its a clutch lever from something like an 85 XT550. And it works remarkably well. I use them on all of my Yamaha's. You will even notice the different engagement location compared to stock. It is awesome!

  • Yak

Posted January 16, 2003 - 01:47 PM

#35

Also, another viable alternative

http://photos.yahoo.....view=t&.last=1

  • Quik426

Posted January 16, 2003 - 02:25 PM

#36

Just a little input....... I lengthened the clutch arm on my 426 myself(not that difficult if you have a welder) and installed a MSR Raptor shorty on the bike. WOW, what a difference!! Very easy to pull the clutch. I do have to say that replacement levers are very expensive but if you run barkbusters or install the teflon provided with the lever assy..... you shouldn't have many broken levers.
I do always carry a spare though!!

MSR Raptor is the best $35 bucks I've spent on the bike!!

Quik

  • DonW

Posted January 16, 2003 - 02:34 PM

#37

Ok I have read all these post and I have not seen any one measure the clutch pull from a stock setup to these after market setups. Someone need to a scale used to weigh fish, attach it to the lever and pull. Of course you will need to have something that will alow you the go around the handle bar. Come on someone wants braging rights for the lightest clutch pull.

  • gottaroost

Posted January 16, 2003 - 07:44 PM

#38

ScottKC, I just did your lever mod per the pix you kindly posted. I am amazed at the difference that made, it pulls in smoothly and easily. Thanks for the idea!!

The only thing I did differently was that I did not bother to ream out that one area with the 1/8" at all. Everything just sorta fit really fine without doing that. I will ride it tomorrow for a final test (nearly midnight here and some of the softies in the hood get riled up).

Keith

  • Yak

Posted January 17, 2003 - 05:44 AM

#39

I just did the mod last night too. It helped alot. Since the throw distance is less now, you have to run the cable a little tight, especially if you clutch with one or two fingers, cause full disengagment needs to come before the lever hits your other fingers. Its so much easier to pull now though, Excellent idea.

BTW. for those interested, 5/16 drill bit works perfectly too.

  • gottaroost

Posted January 21, 2003 - 04:37 PM

#40

Bumped up for LOU to review. See the post where Scott in KC links you to pix. I did this mod in about 5 minutes and for the price of a $3.00 lever I have the easiest pulling clutch I have ever experienced.





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