Easier clutch pull!!



39 replies to this topic
  • SMP

Posted February 18, 2002 - 03:22 PM

#1

In the March 2002 Motocross Action Mag. on page 118, it shows how to lengthen a 426's clutch arm to give an easier pull. They extended it using some scrap steel and a wirefeed welder. The extension was exactly 5mm.

I am going to take my actuator arm to a welder I know and have hime extend it for me, I will let you guys know how much it cost and how much of a difference it made.

They said in the article that Team Yamaha also does this trick.

  • Ga426owner

Posted February 18, 2002 - 03:39 PM

#2

Wouldn't it be nice if someone manufactured this piece as a replacement part vs. taking the chance of messing up the original????

  • 426guy

Posted February 18, 2002 - 04:21 PM

#3

check out a 98-99-00 stock clutch arm...
they are 5-6 mm longer then the 01-02

  • skthom2320

Posted February 18, 2002 - 04:36 PM

#4

Another TTer did this recently. It worked out great and his clutch pull is definitely lighter than mine. Here is the link to the thread: actuator arm thread

Regards,

Steve

  • Const

Posted February 20, 2002 - 05:50 PM

#5

a simpler method to ease clutch pull is to buy a clutch lever with a bearing in it. that way you don't have to cut or weld anything. I found one available from this new company called ride engineering. take a look at there web site: www.ride-engineering.com

  • 98yz

Posted February 20, 2002 - 06:47 PM

#6

The Bike shop that I own is going to start Manufacturing these arms. I am in the process of putting this mod on my 01 426. I will have the updates posted here and on my website www.jmrpowersports.com The arm only costs about 35.00 from the factory, so the modified version should not be very much more expensive.

  • yzf_virgin

Posted February 21, 2002 - 01:06 PM

#7

Have ya'll tried changing your cable? I just changed mine and lubed the piss out of it. PERFECTION! Just like night and day.

  • Tim

Posted February 22, 2002 - 08:40 AM

#8

Have you thought of an "Easy Clutch"? I got one a few years back and have since transfered it to my 426 with great results. I think I got mine from white bros. but there is several places selling them. I think the cost is around $35, it just works in-line with the clutch cable. No messing around with welding, etc.

  • J_Bone

Posted February 25, 2002 - 02:42 PM

#9

I was going to go with the " Easy Clutch" my self, but haven't heard of anyone using it. I bought a "MSR Raptor" clutch lever and it works good too!! :)

  • SMP

Posted February 25, 2002 - 03:44 PM

#10

I just picked up my new clutch cover gasket and some oil, I am going to give the arm extension a try. Let you know how it goes.

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  • 98yz

Posted February 26, 2002 - 06:25 AM

#11

I have my clutch arm on order, but in the mean time I drilled an alternate hole in the clutch lever to aid in leverage. It was a great and easy modification. Anyone can do it. If you have any question email or pm me.

  • MX_Tuner

Posted February 26, 2002 - 02:41 PM

#12

One widely overlooked point is the hole in the lever that the barrel end of the cable goes into. I rarely see bikes with any evidence of any type of lubrication here. You'd be amazed at how much this can help. Most people think the cable gets pulled straight out but it doesn't. The end of the cable is intended to twist in that hole. A bit of grease will do amazing things for the pull effort.

The only problem with an easy clutch or Raptor lever is they may not disengage the clutch fully If you can deal with that, they are a viable alternative. I'll stick with my hydraulic clutch.

  • Scott_in_KC

Posted February 27, 2002 - 01:02 PM

#13

98yz has it. I just drilled my lever out today and relocated the cable barrel closer to the pivot point. Made a big difference! Then lubed it all, including the barrels with TriFlow...very nice feel. Here are some pics. http://photos.yahoo.....view=t&.last=1

I used a 21/64 bit for the main barrel hole, then an 1/8 bit to drill out and smooth the area where the cable pulls through. Careful not to drill the main hole too deep. It's free and worth a try!

I'm wondering if this combined with longer clutch arm is going to be too much...in other words will there be a long enough pull to fully disengage the clutch?? If it does work, let us know!!

  • boxsterboy

Posted February 27, 2002 - 04:46 PM

#14

I use the MSR Raptor clutch and perch. It works very well. I highly recommend it.

  • d_criss

Posted February 28, 2002 - 02:18 PM

#15

I also bought the MSR Raptor perch and lever. I thought about having the actuator lengthened, but opted for the easy way out. My local dealer had it in stock. I bought the normal length lever, not the shorty. I'm old-school, and still use three or four fingers on the clutch. The Raptor makes a BIG difference. Highly recommended.

Pros and Cons:

Lengthened actuator uses stock levers...easily accesssible

Raptor costs $39, replacement levers $24...definite con

Actuator requires much more work; removal, modification, re-installation.

Cool "works"-like parts with actuator...priceless in the bench racing sessions!!

Dennis

  • Weezer_#_1

Posted March 02, 2002 - 07:46 PM

#16

I have a copy of that article.
My friend and I are going to do it to ours.
I also just ordered the GYT-R clutch perch and lever. Had one before and I liked it.
I'll keep you informed.

  • SMP

Posted March 19, 2002 - 11:07 AM

#17

Just picked up my extended clutch arm from the machine shop, they charged me $20 (and did it in an hour), my gasket came off clean and I needed to change the oil anyways.

It took 15 minutes to get the part off and should take the same to put it back. I will post again to let you know how it feels.

  • kc_husky

Posted March 19, 2002 - 02:12 PM

#18

Doing the actuator arm is quite easy if you have a welder. I did the actuator arm mod with the 5mm of extra lenght. I also lubed my cable. And the last mod I did to it was, to put three RC truck wheel bearings in my clutch lever. By knocking out the brass sleeve they will fit right in. But you do have to file down the lever arm bolt a little. All the mods for the clutch cost me $10.00. And it has a light pull. Has anyone tried playing a round with YZ 250 clutch springs. They are supposed to be a little lighter than the YZF springs.

  • SMP

Posted March 19, 2002 - 06:01 PM

#19

Well, I got it all back together, took a little longer to reassemble, due to torque specs and I had to paint the part of the actuator arm I had welded.

Drove around the block a few time and it does seem to have helped a little bit, if I had to give a percentage, I would say about 20%, not a big deal, but will help. 20% for $20, not too bad.

  • louie_dog_4

Posted March 20, 2002 - 02:35 PM

#20

hey guys I have a pic of mine done by Osheen
http://207.71.8.150/...i?ubb=get_topic





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