2004 WR450 no start: help


13 replies to this topic
  • radeenshemirani

Posted May 09, 2015 - 06:59 PM

#1

I have a 2004 Wr450 that I swapped everything onto a 2005 WR frame for the green sticker. I've got everything together and it won't start. Won't kick over, electric start does not work. The ignition box lights up when I hook up a battery to it (battery is dead) but the bike won't start. Can anyone help me find a diagnosis. I'm cleaning out every connector and still nothing

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 09, 2015 - 07:04 PM

#2

It won't start without a good battery



  • radeenshemirani

Posted May 09, 2015 - 07:24 PM

#3

It would start fine before I did the swap. It only needed a few kicks and it would go. And if I jumped the battery the electric start would engage. The electric start isn't doing anything now and it won't kick over

The only thing I can think of is, when I did the swap, the connector for the stator wiring fell off the wires and I put it back on. Maybe I put it on backwards?

It won't start without a good battery




It would start fine before I did the swap. It only needed a few kicks and it would go. And if I jumped the battery the electric start would engage. The electric start isn't doing anything now and it won't kick over

The only thing I can think of is, when I did the swap, the connector for the stator wiring fell off the wires and I put it back on. Maybe I put it on backwards?

It won't start without a good battery




It would start fine before I did the swap. It only needed a few kicks and it would go. And if I jumped the battery the electric start would engage. The electric start isn't doing anything now and it won't kick over

The only thing I can think of is, when I did the swap, the connector for the stator wiring fell off the wires and I put it back on. Maybe I put it on backwards?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 09, 2015 - 07:48 PM

#4

fuse



  • radeenshemirani

Posted May 09, 2015 - 09:22 PM

#5

fuse


Even though my ignition box light is on?

One thing I just looked at is there's a metal clip running from the + terminal on the battery to the first fuse, not no metal clip running from the - terminal to the second fuse

fuse


Even though my ignition box light is on?

One thing I just looked at is there's a metal clip running from the + terminal on the battery to the first fuse, not no metal clip running from the - terminal to the second fuse

  • DeepPurplishBlue

Posted May 09, 2015 - 11:27 PM

#6

Even though my ignition box light is on?

One thing I just looked at is there's a metal clip running from the + terminal on the battery to the first fuse, not no metal clip running from the - terminal to the second fuse

Even though my ignition box light is on?

One thing I just looked at is there's a metal clip running from the + terminal on the battery to the first fuse, not no metal clip running from the - terminal to the second fuse



That is because the other fuse is a spare and there is nothing connected to it

  • don_pacote

Posted May 10, 2015 - 02:19 AM

#7

I think that you could have a problem with the gear sensor. If it detects that a gear is engaged, the ecu does not allow the engine to start.
In my bike sometimes the gearbox is in a false neutral and when I push the start button the engine do nothing as you describe.
If you have the clutch switch installed you can try to start with the clutch engaged.

I hope this could help and excuse my English

Edited by don_pacote, May 10, 2015 - 02:22 AM.


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  • radeenshemirani

Posted May 10, 2015 - 07:58 AM

#8

I think that you could have a problem with the gear sensor. If it detects that a gear is engaged, the ecu does not allow the engine to start.
In my bike sometimes the gearbox is in a false neutral and when I push the start button the engine do nothing as you describe.
If you have the clutch switch installed you can try to start with the clutch engaged.

I hope this could help and excuse my English


  • don_pacote

Posted May 10, 2015 - 08:31 AM

#9

Hi radeenshemirani,.
There is no clutch sensor. There is a switch located at the clutch lever. If your engine is not in neutral and you pull the lever this switch allows the engine to start.
If you have a problem with the gear sensor and your clutch lever switch is disabled or switch is not being pushed correctly the engine can not start.
All of these is for the euro version. I don't know if the USA one works exactly in the same way.
Good luck

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 10, 2015 - 08:35 AM

#10

You need to download a service manual from yamaha's website



  • don_pacote

Posted May 11, 2015 - 05:16 AM

#11

Here you have the electric starting system diagram.

electric%20starting%20system_zpswaovl2eo

As you can see there are two conditions to close the circuit to ground when you push the start switch (5): The first one is the neutral switch ( 8 ) and the other one is the clutch switch (7).
Only for a try you can ground directly the positive wire that goes to the starting switch .
If the engine cranks, you have a problem with the starting button,or with both switches (7) ( 8 )
If the engine do not want to crank, probably you have a problem with the starting relay or with the starting cut-off relay.
The starting relay has 2 connection points. You can check if the problem is with the starter motor (10) with a direct connection this two screws with a BIG wire during a short time. Be carefull that here you have a lot of Amperes...

Good luck.

Edited by don_pacote, May 11, 2015 - 01:08 PM.


  • radeenshemirani

Posted May 17, 2015 - 05:19 PM

#12

Here you have the electric starting system diagram.

electric%20starting%20system_zpswaovl2eo

As you can see there are two conditions to close the circuit to ground when you push the start switch (5): The first one is the neutral switch ( 8 ) and the other one is the clutch switch (7).
Only for a try you can ground directly the positive wire that goes to the starting switch .
If the engine cranks, you have a problem with the starting button,or with both switches (7) ( 8 )
If the engine do not want to crank, probably you have a problem with the starting relay or with the starting cut-off relay.
The starting relay has 2 connection points. You can check if the problem is with the starter motor (10) with a direct connection this two screws with a BIG wire during a short time. Be carefull that here you have a lot of Amperes...

Good luck.

My problem right now is that the bike isnt getting spark, and the starter motor wont engage unless the clutch is pulled in, even though it is in neutral. The picture you posted would just be a no-start situation with the starter motor not engaging at all, wether as in my case it does engage, only with the clutch pulled in, even when in neutral. I dont see how that would inhibit me from getting spark to the motor. Any ideas?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 17, 2015 - 05:30 PM

#13

Bypass the clutch interlock by splicing the wires (7)

Bypass the neutral interlock by splicing the wires (8)

 

Now you have eliminated to two biggest weak spots in the starting system



  • don_pacote

Posted May 17, 2015 - 10:52 PM

#14

Bypass the clutch interlock by splicing the wires (7)

Bypass the neutral interlock by splicing the wires (8)

 

Now you have eliminated to two biggest weak spots in the starting system

+1

 

In our bike the coil is located inside the spark plug connector.
There is nothing (only a connector) between the coil and the ECU.
Check the coil. If the coil is OK you have to  look at the crank sensor (or the wiring) that tells when have to fire the spark to the ECU.





 
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