2012+ WR450 suspension starting point?


18 replies to this topic
  • nd4spdbh

Posted May 09, 2015 - 06:27 PM

#1

Hi All,

 

I have a newer 2014 WR450F and i have just begun to play with suspension settings. I weigh 160 without gear so im good as far as spring rate. But I was wondering what you guys recommend as a good starting point as far as comp / rebound settings, or are the stock settings pretty good?

 

My riding type varies all over the place from tight woods, to track to desert. 



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 09, 2015 - 07:50 PM

#2

http://www.dirtrider...nsion-clickers/



  • cubera

Posted May 09, 2015 - 08:04 PM

#3

Hi All,

 

I have a newer 2014 WR450F and i have just begun to play with suspension settings. I weigh 160 without gear so im good as far as spring rate. But I was wondering what you guys recommend as a good starting point as far as comp / rebound settings, or are the stock settings pretty good?

 

My riding type varies all over the place from tight woods, to track to desert. 

I would think at your weight the stock springs are perfect and as for the valving on the WR it is excellent in stock form at least this was the case with my 2013. I had the suspension re-done professionally mostly because I weight 100 pounds more than you do. It's is due again. I'm looking for a little better manners in rocks and more stability in sand but the WR is a heavy girl that'll never handle like a lightweight.



  • Nuklhed

Posted May 10, 2015 - 05:59 PM

#4

Up front: compression = 10 clicks out from all the way in (turning to the right to go all the way in).  Rebound = 8 clicks out

Same on the back, but the slow speed (big blue nut) turn that out 1.5 turns from all the way in.

 

That's what my local shop suspension dude said.



  • GuyGraham

Posted May 11, 2015 - 02:18 AM

#5

Same on the back, but the slow speed (big blue nut) turn that out 1.5 turns from all the way in.

 

 

That's the High Speed Compression adjuster isn't it?

Slow speed is the screwdriver slot

 

You may want to find another suspension shop


Edited by GuyGraham, May 11, 2015 - 02:21 AM.


  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted May 13, 2015 - 12:20 PM

#6

I've got a used WR 2012, right after a 2003 WR.  The suspension sucks in the rocks. I dumped a good 20ccm oil from each fork leg, and backed out all compression clickers fully. I've set the rebounds to workshop manual "standard" values. The fork is now usable, e.g. one can ram it into a rock an she nicely soaks it up but the rear still is harsh.   And I weigh in at 250 lbs!  Where is my trusty '03s rock climbing capability hidden?



  • 080

Posted May 13, 2015 - 01:34 PM

#7

I've got a used WR 2012, right after a 2003 WR. The suspension sucks in the rocks. I dumped a good 20ccm oil from each fork leg, and backed out all compression clickers fully. I've set the rebounds to workshop manual "standard" values. The fork is now usable, e.g. one can ram it into a rock an she nicely soaks it up but the rear still is harsh. And I weigh in at 250 lbs! Where is my trusty '03s rock climbing capability hidden?


Have you changed out the springs for your weight?

  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted May 13, 2015 - 10:35 PM

#8

Have you changed out the springs for your weight?

Nope;  according to yamaha workshop manual there is only one spring rate available.

The '03 manual listed a lot of rates, front and aft. But my problem is not that these springs are too soft for my weight but they are too hard!

Only after draining quite some oil from  the forks, a typical ride is using ~80% travel at the front.

The rear still feels hard.

I cannot imagine how a 160 lbs ride cn be happy with that suspension except for some AA racers.

 

I know that my '03 was very soft but the 2012 is bordering at ridiculously hard, for my 250 lbs.

 

Got mail from  pre owner yesterday: springs are stock front and rear, he only had the forks "adapted" to his riding style (ISDE guy!)


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, May 13, 2015 - 10:39 PM.


  • GuyGraham

Posted May 14, 2015 - 12:10 AM

#9

Nope;  according to yamaha workshop manual there is only one spring rate available.

The '03 manual listed a lot of rates, front and aft. But my problem is not that these springs are too soft for my weight but they are too hard!

Only after draining quite some oil from  the forks, a typical ride is using ~80% travel at the front.

The rear still feels hard.

I cannot imagine how a 160 lbs ride cn be happy with that suspension except for some AA racers.

 

I know that my '03 was very soft but the 2012 is bordering at ridiculously hard, for my 250 lbs.

 

Got mail from  pre owner yesterday: springs are stock front and rear, he only had the forks "adapted" to his riding style (ISDE guy!)

 

Who buys Springs from Yamaha anyway? - they are waaaay over priced

 

You can get all the spring rates you need from places like Race-Tech

 

It feels hard because you are in the wrong area of travel becuase the springs can't cope with your weight, as they are way too soft for a rider of 250lbs



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  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted May 14, 2015 - 01:13 AM

#10

So you suggest for a less tiring off road ride I should get stiffer springs? front and rear?



  • GuyGraham

Posted May 14, 2015 - 01:22 AM

#11

What are your sag figures

you can't set up your suspension until you get the correct springs for your weight



  • 080

Posted May 14, 2015 - 08:32 AM

#12

So you suggest for a less tiring off road ride I should get stiffer springs? front and rear?

 

Yes, what GuyGraham said. You have to start with the correct sag etc which you wont get with your weight and the stock springs. The set up is found in the owners manual or you can call Racetech and they will tell you what rate you need. You want to be riding higher in the stroke so your suspension has more room to travel when rolling over the trail junk. I personally find the stock suspension very soft and I'm at 175lbs which requires heavier springs.



  • GuyGraham

Posted May 14, 2015 - 09:08 AM

#13

I'm 205 lbs and needed to go up to a 6.0kg/mm (stock is 5.5kg/mm I think) rear, and 0.46kg/mm front springs (stock is quoted as 0.44 but in reality they measured 0.41kg/mm)

At 250 lbs you're gonna need more than this prob 6.5 & 0.5



  • Nuklhed

Posted May 18, 2015 - 03:29 PM

#14

That's the High Speed Compression adjuster isn't it?

Slow speed is the screwdriver slot

 

You may want to find another suspension shop

Whatever they're called doesn't matter.  I'm following my own.



  • GuyGraham

Posted May 19, 2015 - 01:31 AM

#15

Whatever they're called doesn't matter.  I'm following my own.

 

of course it matters, because you need to know what each adjuster is for, in order to be altering the correct one when you are adjusting the suspension

The only time it doesn't matter is if, like yourself, you set each adjuster to what someone else tells you and then never touch them again

Problem with that, is you don't know if it could be better to suit you, your style of riding, and the terrain your on

 

As the bloke who set up RaceTech says, "the best (suspension) you know is the best (suspension) you've ridden"

your bike could be twice as good as it is now, and you wouldn't know if you've never experimented


Edited by GuyGraham, May 19, 2015 - 01:32 AM.


  • mch

Posted May 19, 2015 - 07:12 AM

#16

I'm in the 250 range and have stock valving.  I went with:

 

.50 kg/mm Front

6.0 kg/mm Back

 

I ride desert and it works great.  If anything, I could go up a little on the rear.  It seems pretty balanced, and pretty close to perfect in that I use most of the stroke (Once in a while I bottom on big hits).  It does trails pretty good, and does whoops pretty good too.  If you go with RaceTech, there are some collar adapters that are needed (and not very clear what you need by looking at their site).  I don't really believe that messing with the oil levels in the forks do anything significant.  The inner chamber requires that it be full, the outside chamber looks like it's mostly for lubrication purposes.


Edited by mch, May 19, 2015 - 07:21 AM.


  • Nuklhed

Posted May 20, 2015 - 08:09 PM

#17

of course it matters, because you need to know what each adjuster is for, in order to be altering the correct one when you are adjusting the suspension

The only time it doesn't matter is if, like yourself, you set each adjuster to what someone else tells you and then never touch them again

Problem with that, is you don't know if it could be better to suit you, your style of riding, and the terrain your on

 

As the bloke who set up RaceTech says, "the best (suspension) you know is the best (suspension) you've ridden"

your bike could be twice as good as it is now, and you wouldn't know if you've never experimented

Yes, thank you, no problem.



  • cubera

Posted May 22, 2015 - 01:43 AM

#18

I'm in the 250 range and have stock valving.  I went with:

 

.50 kg/mm Front

6.0 kg/mm Back

 

I ride desert and it works great.  If anything, I could go up a little on the rear.  It seems pretty balanced, and pretty close to perfect in that I use most of the stroke (Once in a while I bottom on big hits).  It does trails pretty good, and does whoops pretty good too.  If you go with RaceTech, there are some collar adapters that are needed (and not very clear what you need by looking at their site).  I don't really believe that messing with the oil levels in the forks do anything significant.  The inner chamber requires that it be full, the outside chamber looks like it's mostly for lubrication purposes.

I'm 248# naked. Had my suspension on the FX done by Precision Concepts. .50/6.0 is what I'm running and with the professionally done valving this suspension is at a whole new level. Beyond expectations is understatement.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 22, 2015 - 06:11 AM

#19

Spring weight has nothing to do with 'harshness'.

 

That is ALL suspension dampening.






 
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