stripped chain block bolt

11 replies to this topic
  • sirthumpalot

Posted February 11, 2002 - 06:08 PM


I lost the thread where I read how some of you fixed the stripped bolts that hold the chain block to the swing arm. Well tonight the back top bolt on mine stripped (while I was using the torque wrench to tighten it! What a pisser..). Anyway the best fix seemed to be some sort of threaded insert but I don't remember what it was called. Can someone help me with what it is and where to get it so I can ride this weekend? Also has anyone used that loctite thread maker and is it good enough to use for a weekend?


  • JT1

Posted February 11, 2002 - 07:06 PM


Thumpalot....we must be on the same time wave. I stripped out my upper chain block (one nearest the front sprocket)and was just checking the site for information on fixing it.

Does anyone know if you can get a self tapping screw to fix it? I heard aluminum can be difficult to tap. What's the best fix???????


  • Rusty

Posted February 11, 2002 - 07:53 PM


I believe what you guys are looking for is a helicoil kit. It comes with a tap and plastic insertion tool. Just follow the directions. Drill the hole out and tap it. screw in the helicoil with the tool, break off the insertion tang and you're back in business. If you have a NAPA in your area they carry a good assortment of different size kits. Full kits with all the goodies run about $20.00 or so and come with half a dozen coils.

I've tapped aluminum quite a few times and that works too, should you decide to go that route.

I've found over the years that my being a "torquemaster" has taught me how to fix my mistakes.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted February 12, 2002 - 03:11 AM


Thanks for the tip. I thought about a helicoil but when I looked at the swingarm it looked awefully thin. Is there really enough material there to hold a helicoil?

  • Hootna

Posted February 12, 2002 - 04:34 AM


Here is the little thing to fix stripped swing arm bolts $29. Check it out.


  • Scott_F

Posted February 12, 2002 - 08:21 AM


Sir, that aluminum is only about 3mm thick. I suggest a riv-nut. I have done this repair before, thanks to the TM Designworks slider.

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  • sirthumpalot

Posted February 12, 2002 - 08:40 AM


Hootna, pretty cool fix for the chain tensioner blocks! Unfortunately what died on me is the chain slider block bolts (near the front sprockt).

Scott F, where do you get the riv nuts? I've never heard of this before but if it works good then I'll give it a shot. I picked up some helicoils this morning and was thinking about using Loctite Red to help hold it in, but if I can get my hands on a riv nut before saturday then I'll definitely use that instead. Is this something that the local parts store has? Thanks!!

  • flyinguitars

Posted February 12, 2002 - 08:53 AM


A rivnut is a kind of hollow threaded pop rivet. You insert one and "walla" you have threads. There used a lot in the avaition industry. If you have a local small airport, you could give one of the repair shops a call and maybe find somebody with some to spare. Heres a link to a really cheap one, but it give you the idea: http://www.harborfre...itemnumber=1210

[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: flyinguitars ]

  • Ga426owner

Posted February 12, 2002 - 08:58 AM


I believe you are asking for what is called a time cert or tyme cert. These are much more durable than the helicoils.....I have used them on the stripped out oil filter allen head bolt. They work very well. :)

  • bbeakley

Posted February 12, 2002 - 02:02 PM


I had the one on the bottom of the swing arm break off and I had to drill it to get it out. Unfortunately that destroyed the stock threads so I drilled out to the next size larger diameter and re-tapped the hole. Worked just fine. Aluminum is a little harder to work with than steel just because it's so soft, but keep the tap perpendicular and you'll be fine.

  • JT1

Posted February 12, 2002 - 03:37 PM


Rusty...thanks, I just put in the 5MM helicoil and it worked like a charm. Sirthumpalot, if you use the helicoil you can cutoff the excess and only insert it the 3mm or so. I had to remove the seat, disconnect carb air intake, amd push the rear fender / support downward to get a straight shot for the tap. In CA the kit cost $30.00 (of course)...... and while you do this you might as well perform Motoman's chain slap fix......


  • sirthumpalot

Posted February 12, 2002 - 05:09 PM


I couldn't find the riv-nuts (checked 3 places) so I went the helicoil route too. The kit was $20 including 12 coils, but I did have to pay $2 extra for a drill bit. Installation went great, tomorrow I'll see how it works. I put a dab of red loctite "high strength" around the outer edges of the coil to make sure it stays put so I didn't screw the screw into it tonight. It looks like it just may be stronger than the original aluminum threads!

[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: sirthumpalot ]

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