Planning fixes....

[webbie1]

Ok....so I want to plan out my "fixes" so that I get the best bang for the buck time and money wise.  I bought the stuff to do an oil change, coolant change, and swap the stock fuel valve out for the Raptor one.  I also want to do the loctite fixes, probably install a 41 tooth rear sprocket, and install the MCCT that I bought.  What order should I do these in, and is it feasible to get everything done in 1 day?

 

Open to planning suggestions......and thanks!

 

                        Warner

 

[cowpie]

i wouldnt push myself unless it was my only transportation .. i'd probably do the mcct first and get all that adjusted right and running smooth, then do the oil coolant and raptor maybe on another day, i'd probably replace coolant hoses while i had it drained .. i'd do the loctite fixes on another day .. i'd do the gearing on another day to and clean the chain, check the swingarm bearings and lube the pivot bolt while i had the wheel off .. .. im sure it could be done all in one day if you get up early and have a gallon of mountain dew on hand lol ..

[150ron]

id do it all at one time,  fun working on the bike,  sounds like 1 full day or work. 

[barker14]

shouldn't be too hard to do in a day. go for a nice ride and burn up most of the fuel in the tank, ride home and drain all fluids while the bike is warm and install petcock. then proceed with the loctite fixes. make sure you have a clutch side cover gasket and remember that the primary nut is a left hand thread... also make sure you have all of the sockets you need (I think a 26 and 27mm are the only larger ones but double check that)and a long skinny Allen key and way to attach it to your torque wrench for the stator side bolts. my 6 mm (I believe) that was in my socket set would not fit inside the flywheel so I had to be creative with some extensions/adapters. I also replaced the fasteners with grade 12.9s. something to consider.

once that's all done pop open the valve cover, check your clearances and install the MCCT. you can get a pretty good feel for how much tension you are putting on the chain with the valve cover off. I did end up adjusting it a bit more once I got the bike running but it was close. then throw on that rear sprocket. that should have killed a few hours if you take your time.

good luck!

[webbie1]

id do it all at one time,  fun working on the bike,  sounds like 1 full day or work. 

 

Too bad you don't live closer....I'd pay you to give me the tutorial here.....

 

          Warner

[webbie1]

Making notes of more stuff I need to buy or verify that I have.....

 

1 - Clutch side cover gasket (Which one and where to buy?)

 

2 - Hoses (which ones and where to buy?)

 

3 - Appropriate socket sizes

 

4 - Torque wrench (I'll probably try to borrow this) - Is it really necessary?

 

5 - Replacement 12.9 grade bolts (for what again?  Anyone have specifics on where to get them?)

 

6 - Feeler gauge set to check valves (with less than 3k miles on it, these better be in spec!)

 

 

Anything else I'm missing?   I'd like to make a list....and then organize it all in order so I can check stuff off as I go.  And no, this is NOT my only transportation so if it's down for a day or two no biggie....

 

 

   Thanks to everyone for suggestions,

 

                Warner

Edited March 23, 2015 by webbie1

[pumptrack]

Good advice here!

 

Yes, you will need a torque wrench...a good one! No Harbor freight tools here.

 

Consider getting a service manual. So much better than having to go back and search out the particulars mid-repair.

 

Are you the original owner? If not, some of the Loctite fixes may have been done. If that is the case you will want a propane torch or similar to heat up fasteners in order to soften the High-strength Loctite that may have been used. Otherwise it may be a bear to remove the fasteners. If I remember correctly, one of the nuts has left hand threads. Get a manual.

 

As it's not your only transportation, take your time, keep it organized and use a camera to remind you of where things go.

Edited March 24, 2015 by pumptrack

[webbie1]

Good advice here!

 

Yes, you will need a torque wrench...a good one! No Harbor freight tools here.

 

Consider getting a service manual. So much better than having to go back and search out the particulars mid-repair.

 

Are you the original owner? If not, some of the Loctite fixes may have been done. If that is the case you will want a propane torch or similar to heat up fasteners in order to soften the High-strength Loctite that may have been used. Otherwise it may be a bear to remove the fasteners. If I remember correctly, one of the nuts has left hand threads. Get a manual.

 

As it's not your only transportation, take your time, keep it organized and use a camera to remind you of where things go.

 

I have lots of tools....multiple torches.  I doubt the original owner did much...the bike is BONE stock.  But again, super low miles....2,678 when I got it, and I've put about 200 on it since I got it.  I have downloaded several different manuals for it, so I should be good on that.  But really, the how to's on this website are excellent, too.    Good call on the taking photos as I go.....I've done that with firearms at times and it's very helpful initially.

 

          Thanks for the reply,

 

                Warner

[707LAKE]

torque wrench is a must!!! 

 

read here, some info you want to know is already documented in the DRZ FAQ.. so here is link to check out 

 

"basic,special & home-made tools for drz" socket sizes, list of all tools drz use

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/584302-basic-special-and-home-made-tools-just-for-the-drz/

 

i wouldnt worry about those 12.9 bolts..

 

if you can use thumpertalk..you can search on google..lol...next time search google (not trying to be an ass, itll just save you, and others time, otherwise you just write something on here and sitting on needles until somebody replies).. and 85% of the time youll find the product!! (drz clutch,feeler gauge, drz hoses) seriously make a ebay acct if you dont got 1..endless deals on there 

 

you can find anything you want/need/or hate on any of these sites (in order of what i use most)

ebay

google

wheeling cycle supply  (probably the best drz part store)

revzilla

motorcycle superstore

procycle

[707LAKE]

break loose your sprocket nuts with tire still on bike..

if you loosen nuts with rim off,, its a million times harder and likely to strip

 

 

remember that you have to do an oil change when bike is WARM.. and you have to check valves clearance when they are COLD..

and your supposed to let loctite dry a few hrs, so after you put on the front sprocket, dont plan on riding a few hrs

 

if i had to do all that in 1 day i do it probly do this first

install petcock

install mcct (cold motor)

 

then this in any oder

 

change chain and sprockets, 

coolant change

oil change(warm bike) 

Edited March 24, 2015 by 707LAKE

[webbie1]

torque wrench is a must!!! 

 

read here, some info you want to know is already documented in the DRZ FAQ.. so here is link to check out 

 

"basic,special & home-made tools for drz" socket sizes, list of all tools drz use

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/584302-basic-special-and-home-made-tools-just-for-the-drz/

 

i wouldnt worry about those 12.9 bolts..

 

if you can use thumpertalk..you can search on google..lol...next time search google (not trying to be an ass, itll just save you, and others time, otherwise you just write something on here and sitting on needles until somebody replies).. and 85% of the time youll find the product!! (drz clutch,feeler gauge, drz hoses) seriously make a ebay acct if you dont got 1..endless deals on there 

 

you can find anything you want/need/or hate on any of these sites (in order of what i use most)

ebay

google

wheeling cycle supply  (probably the best drz part store)

revzilla

motorcycle superstore

procycle

 

Yeah, I've done tons of searching on here, and google of course.  Familiar with Revzilla, 1400+ feedback on Ebay, etc.  I like to post and ask here though becasue of my trust level of the community here and the knowledge base that exists here.  I trust you guys, and expect that if there are certain places to buy from, I'll take the advice of the experts here.  I'm not too lazy to search....just wanted to go "right to the source" here, if that makes sense.  Thanks for the info about the Wheeling Cycle Supply....wasn't familiar with that site.

 

                                     Thanks,

 

                                      Warner

break loose your sprocket nuts with tire still on bike..

if you loosen nuts with rim off,, its a million times harder and likely to strip

 

 

remember that you have to do an oil change when bike is WARM.. and you have to check valves clearance when they are COLD..

and your supposed to let loctite dry a few hrs, so after you put on the front sprocket, dont plan on riding a few hrs

 

if i had to do all that in 1 day i do it probly do this first

install petcock

install mcct (cold motor)

 

then this in any oder

 

change chain and sprockets, 

coolant change

oil change(warm bike) 

 

EXACTLY the kind of advice that I was looking for.  Excellent.  Thanks!

 

                   Warner

[707LAKE]

awesome, youll like wheeling tons of drz parts/accessories

 

ppl on here have spent $80 on mishimoto hoses... & others $30 on ebay china hoses..never heard complaints from either side...there are 2 types..1 for s & sm model... 1 for e model

 

id try ebay or a oem parts seller like bike bandit or motosport for the clutch gasket ..they avg about $15

Edited March 24, 2015 by 707LAKE

[webbie1]

awesome, youll like wheeling tons of drz parts/accessories

 

ppl on here have spent $80 on mishimoto hoses... & others $30 on ebay china hoses..never heard complaints from either side...there are 2 types..1 for s & sm model... 1 for e model

 

id try ebay or a oem parts seller like bike bandit or motosport for the clutch gasket ..they avg about $15

 

Thanks.  Man....I'm SO reluctant to buy anything Chinese if I can avoid it.  I saw the blue hoses on that wheeling site for $60.  I'd pay that before I bought something Chinese for $30, honestly.  I know it's difficult to avoid as just about everything is made in China now....and SOME of it isn't bad, if the QC is good.  Just too unreliable for my taste, though.  Thanks again for your valued input.

 

                 Warner

[DougBurgoyne]

Doable in one day...but if you set out with that goal, you will feel rushed. You don't want to be rushed, as you WILL have things come up you didn't plan for.  I must admit I didn't read all of the above replies...but most of them. Some things to consider, from experience on our DRZ's. However, hopefully you can do it "all at the same time", as somethings you want things out of the way (tank off for rad hoses, etc). Just think ahead so your work flow works with the job....like warm up the bike for oil drain prior to removing tank/petcock...and other "proper order" issues noted in above replies and below in mine. Have fun! 

 

Are you planning on doing the primary nut (on crank shaft, left hand thread, under the right side cover) loctite fix also?  If so, do that at the same time as the flywheel/starter clutch loctite fix BECAUSE you have to remove the stator cover to do that primary nut. You have to hold the flywheel nut (the big one that's part of the flywheel) in order to break and torque the primary nut. Make sure your torque wrench torques in both directions for that left hand primary nut!  

 

Break the nut on the countershaft before removing the chain. Have a buddy stand on the rear brake, while you put the breaker bar to it. Hope your's isnt' as tight as mine was! This is if you plan to do the loctite fix on CS sprocket/splines. Only 4 drops on CLEAN splines, and one drop on nut threads (per Erik).  About 100 ft. lbs torque when done...use channel locks to re-bend the lock washer. 

 

If using clymer manual....torque on flywheel/starter clutch bolts is WRONG. Unless you feel like breaking one, buying new flywheel removal tool, having bike down for a bit....read the FAQ on that fix, and use torque noted for the bolt type you are using. I upgraded to the 12.9 so went with higher torque value. But Clymers said 19 ft. lbs for that little bolt and I stretched/snapped one of the oem ones first  . Learn from my (actually clymers') mistake! 

 

Are you going to do the stock reserve mod for your new raptor petcock that I told you about earlier? I think I posted a link to that from another thread, but here it is again. The stock reserve on the raptor won't get you around the block.  If you have your oem petcock, you have everything you need for this mod. 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1115556-yamaha-raptor-petcock-install-oem-reserve/

 

While the coolant is out, might as well flush the system too. Coolant "fix" write up on TT is great, and helps a lot. With that few miles on your bike, the stock hoses are fine. Mine is same year, with 10K miles and no signs of soft,  swollen, buldging spots. But it's your time and money, so if you  want the silicone hoses go for it. Did the silicone on my FIL's DRZ and you can slide the "heat sleeves" off the old hoses and put them on the new hoses for added protection from header, etc. Probably didn't need it, but they cleaned up nice and went right off/on with a bit of soapy water. ONLY use motorcycle high quality coolant for aluminum rads. It's cheap and available and only takes a quart ($8) approx. 

 

Love ya bro...but can't believe you put 200 miles on the bike with that old oil in it

[webbie1]

Doable in one day...but if you set out with that goal, you will feel rushed. You don't want to be rushed, as you WILL have things come up you didn't plan for.  I must admit I didn't read all of the above replies...but most of them. Some things to consider, from experience on our DRZ's. However, hopefully you can do it "all at the same time", as somethings you want things out of the way (tank off for rad hoses, etc). Just think ahead so your work flow works with the job....like warm up the bike for oil drain prior to removing tank/petcock...and other "proper order" issues noted in above replies and below in mine. Have fun! 

 

Are you planning on doing the primary nut (on crank shaft, left hand thread, under the right side cover) loctite fix also?  If so, do that at the same time as the flywheel/starter clutch loctite fix BECAUSE you have to remove the stator cover to do that primary nut. You have to hold the flywheel nut (the big one that's part of the flywheel) in order to break and torque the primary nut. Make sure your torque wrench torques in both directions for that left hand primary nut!  

 

Break the nut on the countershaft before removing the chain. Have a buddy stand on the rear brake, while you put the breaker bar to it. Hope your's isnt' as tight as mine was! This is if you plan to do the loctite fix on CS sprocket/splines. Only 4 drops on CLEAN splines, and one drop on nut threads (per Erik).  About 100 ft. lbs torque when done...use channel locks to re-bend the lock washer. 

 

If using clymer manual....torque on flywheel/starter clutch bolts is WRONG. Unless you feel like breaking one, buying new flywheel removal tool, having bike down for a bit....read the FAQ on that fix, and use torque noted for the bolt type you are using. I upgraded to the 12.9 so went with higher torque value. But Clymers said 19 ft. lbs for that little bolt and I stretched/snapped one of the oem ones first  . Learn from my (actually clymers') mistake! 

 

Are you going to do the stock reserve mod for your new raptor petcock that I told you about earlier? I think I posted a link to that from another thread, but here it is again. The stock reserve on the raptor won't get you around the block.  If you have your oem petcock, you have everything you need for this mod. 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1115556-yamaha-raptor-petcock-install-oem-reserve/

 

While the coolant is out, might as well flush the system too. Coolant "fix" write up on TT is great, and helps a lot. With that few miles on your bike, the stock hoses are fine. Mine is same year, with 10K miles and no signs of soft,  swollen, buldging spots. But it's your time and money, so if you  want the silicone hoses go for it. Did the silicone on my FIL's DRZ and you can slide the "heat sleeves" off the old hoses and put them on the new hoses for added protection from header, etc. Probably didn't need it, but they cleaned up nice and went right off/on with a bit of soapy water. ONLY use motorcycle high quality coolant for aluminum rads. It's cheap and available and only takes a quart ($8) approx. 

 

Love ya bro...but can't believe you put 200 miles on the bike with that old oil in it

 

As usual, all good stuff here Doug.  I'll skip replacing the hoses.  I plan to flush the cooling system out (distilled water, yes?) because I'm switching from whatever antifreeze is currently in there to the Engine Ice).   FWIW, I DID check the oil and coolant levels before riding...the oil looks ok so I rode it a bit. 

 

Yes, I'm going to do the "stock reserve mod" to the raptor petcock for sure - great idea and free.

 

Tell me more about the flywheel/starter clutch bolts...what SHOULD they be torqued to, and where did you get the 12.9 ones (assuming those get torqued more than the stock bolts).

 

                      Let me know and thanks!

 

                              Warner

[707LAKE]

I have downloaded several different manuals for it

 

                Warner

 

 

were you able to find the Factory suzuki manual?? (not the clymers, i have that 1)

if so, id like a copy to sent to my email!!!!

[webbie1]

were you able to find the Factory suzuki manual?? (not the clymers, i have that 1)

if so, id like a copy to sent to my email!!!!

 

I don't recall....they are on my laptop at home.....I'll have to check later....

 

    Warner

[DougBurgoyne]

Warner,

Got the 12.9 fasteners at Wilco farm stores. They will be marked on the head, or in fastener holder you get them out of. They are black. 

 

TT faq's indicate the below: 

8.8 oem fasteners: 70 in lbs

10.9 upgrade 120 in lbs (10 ft)

12.9 upgrade  144 in lbs (12 ft)  what I did

 

Below is the full official TT FAQ write up for this fix. Read it and be enlightened my man!  You will see these torque specs also towards the bottom. 

 

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/548456-stator-and-starter-clutch-loctite-fix/

[GavMac78]

Most auto parts store have torque wrenches that you can rent.  I even "rented" a 26mm socket from O'Reilly to take off the spindle nut on my car.  Actually the socket was interesting.  I went in to buy it for $20.  As I'm about to check out, the guy says, "We rent these, too".  Thanks to him, saved myself $20 and more dead weight in my tool box.  Make some calls and see what they have to "rent".

[Darkn3ss]

I'm in the same boat as you, just bought my 08 SM with 7500 miles and i need to change my rear sprocket, front sprocket and my chain. I have all the parts and i even bought a chain breaker/ riveter and a motorcycle jack. . I have never worked on anything before, some of these tips are really good to read up on, like loosening the sprocket before taking the tire off. anyways thanks for this info.