13 WR 450 dying when Idling

Brand Yamaha Brand FMF Racing

11 replies to this topic
  • Rengo221

Posted March 18, 2015 - 05:45 PM

#1

Hi guys name is Eric. 

I have a 2013 Wr 450 only put 250 miles on it so far all trail rides.

I live in MN and store the bike in the winter.  I put some fuel stabilizer in before I put it away last fall.

This spring I purchased the FMF power core 4 slip on exhaust and recently put it on.  It says in the instructions no FI adjustments are needed for this slip on and I currently have the non-adjustable ECU in it.  

When I start it, the bike will idle for about 2 minutes before it dies.  It almost seems like the fuel is cut out or the is not enough to keep it going.  The only way to keep it running is to keep on the throttle or have some sort of load on the transmission such as going down a hill.

The bike ran great at the end of the year last fall.  

 

I run non oxygenated premium gas in the bike

 

So far I have replaced new spark plug old plug looked very good still.

Drained the fuel tank to put fresh gas it.

Checked air filter. (clean)

 

Looking for some other Ideas on things to try.  

Thank you in advance,

Eric

 

 

 



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 18, 2015 - 06:02 PM

#2

You need the GYTR ECU and mapping tool

 

You have leaned out the intake and exahust too much on an already too-lean stock FI setting.



  • Rengo221

Posted March 18, 2015 - 06:13 PM

#3

Would you happen to know where to find maps online that i can try.



  • Andrew Puetz

Posted March 18, 2015 - 06:34 PM

#4

There is a thread on here with maps, but just google WR450F maps


Where in MN are you?



  • Andrew Puetz

Posted March 18, 2015 - 06:36 PM

#5

Here is the thread: http://www.thumperta...-only/?hl= maps



  • Rengo221

Posted March 18, 2015 - 06:52 PM

#6

Thanks you.

From Duluth



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  • iggs

Posted March 18, 2015 - 07:53 PM

#7

With the gytr tuner you can't change the idle settings, it starts at around 4000rpm

I think it's the FI tool/programmer that is needed to change idle settings and this is not a consumer part, it's more dealer/workshop orientated

That's my understanding anyway

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 18, 2015 - 07:57 PM

#8

You advance the TPS to just under .65 volts and the idle will go down (richer) and then you turn the idle knob counter clockwise to raise the idle, and you are good.

 

That's the trick.



  • mebgardner

Posted March 19, 2015 - 10:20 AM

#9

I've never seen that describe before, Krannie. Interesting.

 

Most folks will just advise to replace the non-adjustable ECU with the GYTR ECU, and then advise to program a new map. All of which takes many 100's of dollars to perform.

 

This simple re-setting for the non-programmable ECU is free, except for the setup time (and the need for a voltmeter. You got one, right? I own three...).

 

Anyway, nice job! Thank You.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 19, 2015 - 02:25 PM

#10

I've never seen that describe before, Krannie. Interesting.

 

Most folks will just advise to replace the non-adjustable ECU with the GYTR ECU, and then advise to program a new map. All of which takes many 100's of dollars to perform.

 

This simple re-setting for the non-programmable ECU is free, except for the setup time (and the need for a voltmeter. You got one, right? I own three...).

 

Anyway, nice job! Thank You.

 

It only partially addresses the lean idle, nothing more.

The GYTR upgrade is still needed.



  • avlisj

Posted March 19, 2015 - 07:39 PM

#11

You advance the TPS to just under .65 volts and the idle will go down (richer) and then you turn the idle knob counter clockwise to raise the idle, and you are good.

That's the trick.

Is this another fix for the difficult start
Issue. Instead of buying the tool and turning the co to 10ish?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 19, 2015 - 09:38 PM

#12

Advancing the TPS far enough and you go into the next richer map.

It is a band aid fix

It does not replace proper tuning







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