Dr. D exhaust clamp?


27 replies to this topic
  • ThumpMe

Posted March 23, 2015 - 10:00 AM

#21


As cheap as the bare wire is, get a little extra so you can screw up the first two.  :smirk:
[/quote]

Been there done that.....on ALMOST EVERY project I do it seems!

  • ThumpMe

Posted March 23, 2015 - 10:10 AM

#22

Meant to post a picture of that new pipe guard but my fingers went haywire and posted that reply before I attached it.

I ended up finding it from a place that was sells piping for turbochargers on line. CHEAP too! 15 bucks! Of course it took me an hour to cut it out using a real low powered saber saw (so I could not hurt myself!), and another hour to de-burr and cut a couple slots for the hose clamp mounting.

NEXT time (now that I know it will work) I will add some holes in it BEFORE I go and saw it up, because now I cannot hold onto it to locate the holes exactly where I want them.

Attached Thumbnails

  • WR tidbits 003.JPG

Edited by ThumpMe, March 23, 2015 - 10:29 AM.


  • chrisford4x4

Posted March 24, 2015 - 08:59 AM

#23

So it turns out there was a header gasket in the head. It blends in real well. Took it for a ride last night. Started with pilot screw out 2 1/2 turns. Idle was hanging, if i touched the idle screw it would just die, header glowing. So i worked it out too 3 1/2 turns and idle was smooth, not popping as much, and seemed to run cooler. I also sprayed again with carb cleaner and didn't get an increase in idle so maybe I don't have an intake leak. I think i am going to swap out my 48 pilot to a 50. If that works its time to go out and ride the damn thing!!



  • grayracer513

Posted March 24, 2015 - 09:20 AM

#24

There's no way you should need a #50 pilot.  Check your current one for a partial blockage.  Also look at your valve clearances.



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  • chrisford4x4

Posted March 24, 2015 - 11:05 AM

#25

Valves are spot on and had the pilot out three times to clean and inspect. No blockage. i probably opened it up a little shoving wire through it.



  • cowboyona426

Posted March 24, 2015 - 02:16 PM

#26

Have you contacted JDJetting?  He was pretty helpful when I bought the jet kit from him, and with his "special" needles the jetting requirements are a little different.



  • chrisford4x4

Posted March 24, 2015 - 06:53 PM

#27

Yes this is what he said

"Chris,
make sure the fuel screw has the spring , washer , o-ring on it. in that order. Also those aluminum fuel screws do not hold the correct tolerances for adjustments that are needed. You should not be lean at the settings your at. Also make sure the slide plate seal is in good condition.
See here,

http://www.pbase.com...image/133599400


Also
Setting the fuel screw mixture-
Try adjusting with the motor fully hot, and turning the fuel screw inwards until the idle slows or runs rough, then turn outwards 1 1/4 turns from this position. For example, if the idle slows or runs rough at 1/2 turn from closed, then set the fuel screw to 1 3/4 turns out (1/2 + 1 1/4 = 1 3/4).
See- http://www.pbase.com.../image/82894252 to understand how the fuel screw can affect the idle speed and air/fuel mixture at idle. The target range for the air/fuel mixture is near 12.5 to 13:1 at idle.

Chris,
We recommend ours or anyone that is made of brass, not aluminum . Just make sure the seal is not torn . Also the popping on decel could be an air leak in the exhaust. "

I picked up a number fifty pilot after work today. I think I'll be set once installed.

  • chrisford4x4

Posted March 27, 2015 - 05:26 PM

#28

So....... I realized I had a brain fart. I put my carb slide plate on upside down. Let me tell you. Its like I rolled it off of the show room floor it runs so good!





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