Another post about Z-start
Posted February 11, 2004 - 11:42 AM
Posted February 11, 2004 - 04:09 PM
I bought my Z-start back when it was a Generation 1 (March of 2003.) The clutch worked great but had some stalling issues and dragging. It also wasn't aggressive enough for some people, mostly for motocrossers. Since then they are on their Generation 3 and WOWIE what a difference! The design has changed A LOT since the original Gen1. When you buy a Z-start now, you will get a Gen3 (they've been shipping those since around November.)
An auto-clutch has pro's and con's. Let's start with the pro's. The pro's are that it's almost completely eliminates any stalling issues. This is WONDERFUL in the tight, woods stuff. It also slips automatically so negotiating rocky, tight, twisty stuff requires only throttle control. A PERFECT place for the auto-clutch is Moab. The auto-clutch gives you just the right amount of clutch/slip, all the time, every time. The nice thing about the Z-start is that you can adjust the aggressiveness with an external adjuster. That means...no taking off the clutch cover to adjust it! The Z-start also can retain the stock clutch lever in case you want to bypass the clutch (for speed-shifting, I suppose.) I ditched mine long ago and haven't looked back. I no longer get arm pump in my left arm, either! Now, If I could only get rid of the arm pump in the right arm... You know that annoying chain slap that the WR is known for? Almost completely gone with the auto-clutch. Another thing I really like is that it takes the harshness out of the drive train (when going through rough terrain like dry creek beds, etc.) because the clutch slips automatically.
Now for the con's. These are all MINOR and I wouldn't let this stop you from considering one. First, you can't bump start a bike with the auto-clutch since it will freewheel when you kill it. But hey, that's what the e-start is for. Because the clutch will freewheel, that means those wussies who prefer to walk their bikes down hills in first gear won't be able to do that. The only other con that you really will need to take into consideration (and it's difficult to explain) is when the bike has momentum (going over a hill, rocks, whatever) and you want to pull the clutch lever in to stop the momentum/drive (so it won't launch out from under you) you can't if you've removed the clutch lever. The motor won't come down to idle quick enough. Al (at Rekluse) is designing a brake unit that will incorporate a hydraulic, handlebar-mounted, rear brake lever that will also allow the separate use of the foot brake. This will essentially SOLVE this last con for me and I can hardly wait until this product is ready.
So, I hope that breaks it down for you, YR. Renegade on the DRZ forum has a great write up on his Gen3, probably much better description and detail than I have given you here. You know, anyone is welcome to ride it when I'm in Moab at the end of March.
Will I ever go back to a bike without an auto-clutch?? Not if I can help it!
Posted February 12, 2004 - 09:40 AM
I can't say enough about the product [and if you perform searches here at TT under z-start, you'll see what I mean].Excellent quality, legendary customer service, a happy expression on each owners face. If you have any additional specific questions, don't hesitate to ask here, or p.m. me.
Posted February 18, 2004 - 11:58 AM
Posted February 18, 2004 - 12:11 PM
Following Dave D.'s logic there, yes, an application of the rear brake would bring the rpm's down bringing about clutch disengagement. Dave then mentions that he's waiting for the hand operated brake to solve that problem for him. I guess it's a problem for him cause he's such a wild and out of control rider, that his feet are constantly flying off the footpegs, hence his inability to apply the rear [foot operated] brake!
I'am not sure I understand what DD was saying about the motor not coming down to idle quick enough when under power, couldn't you just hit the back brake like you would going into a corner and that would cause the clutch to slip?
Just kidding you Dave!
If you meet Dave over in Moab at the end of march, mabey he'll let you try his bike!
Posted February 18, 2004 - 04:31 PM
What I was trying to get at is when I'm usually in some steep, single track stuff that has some rocky sections my feet aren't on the pegs but off to the sides of the trail for balance. That's when a hand brake is definitely needed. Another example would be a tight, switchback in where you would normally just pop the clutch and at the same time, pull the front end around. As the front end comes around, you would pull in the clutch to drop the front wheel and park the bike. Without the handbrake, my bike wants to continue to go around and out and ends up launching out from underneath me unless I go with less throttle and really muscle it.
To summarize, I need a handbrake because I'm such a wild and out of control rider that my feet are never on the pegs!
Posted February 19, 2004 - 07:52 AM
Posted February 19, 2004 - 08:21 AM
Here's what I would do (of course, we all see it differently, don't we?)
1. 04 starter parts -- peace of mind
2. Z-start -- because it makes riding much more fun
3. muffler -- dents and dings don't bother me much...I ride too hard to keep my bike looking showroom fresh.
Life must be good if this is all you have to worry about.
Posted February 19, 2004 - 08:32 AM
Posted February 19, 2004 - 08:47 AM