Switch Gear for lights?


12 replies to this topic
  • Snow Drift

Posted February 21, 2015 - 09:08 AM

#1

Hi

 

I have been reading a few posts on here around the subject of switches and looking at switch gear on ebay as I am currently in the process of fitting new lights and indicators to my 2007 WR450.

 

I would like to install some good quality switches and it has been suggested that I use some second hand road bike switches. I notice that a few on here have used the Yamaha R6 switch gear with success.

 

I have a few questions, if any of you can answer even some of them then that would be very helpful as I need to make sure I get the right gear before I start this job.

 

1. Is R6 switch gear still considered the best option as I have seen others mention the WR250R. Obviously the switches that have the narrowest profile to avoid interference with the other controls would be best.

 

2. Did the switch gear on the R6 change much through the years? I saw some differences and wondered which year was perhaps the best for functionality and fit?

 

3. I saw two sets of left hand side R6 switches from the same year, one had a hazard light on and the other didn't. Is it possible to wire up the hazard button as well as the indicators and is this a big task. It might make me decide on which of the two to go for.

 

4. I also read a post where someone fitted a right hand side R6 switch but found that the kill and run switch wasn't able to work as it works differently in the circuit to the stock one. Is this sortable to use the R6 right hand side kill switch?



  • foggy3061

Posted February 22, 2015 - 11:06 AM

#2

Hi

 

I have been reading a few posts on here around the subject of switches and looking at switch gear on ebay as I am currently in the process of fitting new lights and indicators to my 2007 WR450.

 

I would like to install some good quality switches and it has been suggested that I use some second hand road bike switches. I notice that a few on here have used the Yamaha R6 switch gear with success.

 

I have a few questions, if any of you can answer even some of them then that would be very helpful as I need to make sure I get the right gear before I start this job.

 

1. Is R6 switch gear still considered the best option as I have seen others mention the WR250R. Obviously the switches that have the narrowest profile to avoid interference with the other controls would be best.

 

2. Did the switch gear on the R6 change much through the years? I saw some differences and wondered which year was perhaps the best for functionality and fit?

 

3. I saw two sets of left hand side R6 switches from the same year, one had a hazard light on and the other didn't. Is it possible to wire up the hazard button as well as the indicators and is this a big task. It might make me decide on which of the two to go for.

 

4. I also read a post where someone fitted a right hand side R6 switch but found that the kill and run switch wasn't able to work as it works differently in the circuit to the stock one. Is this sortable to use the R6 right hand side kill switch?

 

1 - You could use switch gear from a WR250R, WR125R, XT125R, XT225, TTR250, etc. Be aware, some of those bikes use domino switch gear, which isn’t the most water proof and could give problems after a severe dousing.

 

2 - Not sure, you might have to try and view a few R6 wiring diagrams to see if the RH switch still operates in the same way.

 

3 - Probably easier to just use the one without, would you ever use the hazards?

 

4 - You might be able to use a similar R/H switch gear from a TTR250 or DT125RE (electric start model). They both use a switch that has a red engine kill rocker with a grey start button below.



  • flyandride

Posted February 23, 2015 - 09:24 AM

#3

I used these 2 switches.  The left is sold as Tusk and several other brands.  Chinese but works well and you can get it on ebay cheap.  

The right switch is a Yamaha OEM switch that is used on many street bikes.  Scored on ebay cheap.  

Neither was plug and play, I had to figure out what did what and do some soldering.  

leftsw.JPG rightsw.JPG



  • Snow Drift

Posted March 03, 2015 - 09:38 AM

#4

Thanks for the replies. I think I will try and find a switch without hazard lights. I saw a YZF R125 switch on ebay and thought that it looked quite good and basic and slim but the connectors look a little cheap, they are clear. Is there any way of identifying which switch gear is good quality and which switch gear is not so good Domino stuff?

 

Flyandride did you manage to get that right side switch to operate fully as it should?



  • toten

Posted March 03, 2015 - 10:35 AM

#5

If you want to run an aftermarket clutch perch you should consider that when you look at switchgear. The one on my WR interferes with an ASV perch. 



  • Snow Drift

Posted March 03, 2015 - 11:27 AM

#6

I was wondering how switch gear fits with the levers. I have stock levers at the moment. What is the benefit of aftermarket levers like ASV?



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  • toten

Posted March 03, 2015 - 01:03 PM

#7

Smoother pivot and way more durable. ASVs are nearly impossible to break. My hot start lever was broken when I bought the bike, so when I found the perch with lever and hot start for $56 shipped I decided it was worth buying. Oh, and it's adjustable. 



  • GuyGraham

Posted March 04, 2015 - 03:42 AM

#8

I used Suzuki DRZ400 switch clusters on my 08

There is no fitment issues with the stock levers, except for the hot start which needed to be raised up about 5mm to clear the top of the left cluster (I did this with a bit of plastic shaped into a spacer)

 

You have to cut the Suzuki plugs off and solder the wires into the WR connectors where available

 

There is no connector in the Headlight plug for the highbeam

Luckily I had an old GSXR ignition switch and it uses the same contacts so it was just a case of getting it out of the connector block and pushing it in to the WR headlight connector block and solder the relavent wire from the left switch

 

If you want some unbreakeable levers, then have a look at Renthal Intellilevers http://www.renthal.c...rs/intellilever

I got some and they are great


Edited by GuyGraham, March 04, 2015 - 03:44 AM.


  • foggy3061

Posted March 04, 2015 - 04:56 AM

#9

You have to cut the Suzuki plugs off and solder the wires into the WR connectors where available

 

There is no connector in the Headlight plug for the highbeam. Luckily I had an old GSXR ignition switch and it uses the same contacts so it was just a case of getting it out of the connector block and pushing it in to the WR headlight connector block and solder the relavent wire from the left switch

 

If you want some unbreakeable levers, then have a look at Renthal Intellilevers http://www.renthal.c...rs/intellilever

I got some and they are great

 

You shouldn't need to cut off and solder on the Yamaha plugs as you can get replacement Sumitomo connector terminals here in the UK from the likes of Vehicle wiring products / Pole Volt / Auto Electric Supplies. Provided you have enough length on the new switch assy looms, you can reuse the connector grommets and body where available, then crimp a new terminal on.

 

As Guy says with the levers. Either the Renthal levers or the more budget friendly but equally high quality Zeta levers. I don't rate the ASV levers - my bike came with a set of nearly new ASVs on it and the play in the mechanism was huge and the quality poor.


Edited by foggy3061, March 04, 2015 - 04:57 AM.


  • flyandride

Posted March 04, 2015 - 06:30 AM

#10

 

 

Flyandride did you manage to get that right side switch to operate fully as it should?

Yes.  It was not plug and play.  I had to use the multimeter to figure out what did what and do some soldering.  It works perfect. 



  • toten

Posted March 04, 2015 - 07:21 AM

#11

You shouldn't need to cut off and solder on the Yamaha plugs as you can get replacement Sumitomo connector terminals here in the UK from the likes of Vehicle wiring products / Pole Volt / Auto Electric Supplies. Provided you have enough length on the new switch assy looms, you can reuse the connector grommets and body where available, then crimp a new terminal on.

 

As Guy says with the levers. Either the Renthal levers or the more budget friendly but equally high quality Zeta levers. I don't rate the ASV levers - my bike came with a set of nearly new ASVs on it and the play in the mechanism was huge and the quality poor.

Was that ASV levers on stock perches? The ASV perch is pretty tight, not much play. Machining marks are more obvious than I'd like but it seems a lot of people like that. 

 

The Renthal levers look nice but the lever alone costs more than half again as much as I paid for the perch, complete with hot start assembly. The hot start lever is the only thing that was broken on mine, I just wanted something nicer. 

 

I may try moving stuff around, with the factory button (I think left side is start? I forget) in between the perch and the light switch it might fit. 



  • Snow Drift

Posted March 04, 2015 - 11:24 AM

#12

I will probably stay with stock levers for the moment.

 

If I do go with Yamaha switch gear is there any way to check whether the switch gear is the good quality or the lower quality?



  • foggy3061

Posted March 04, 2015 - 01:41 PM

#13

Was that ASV levers on stock perches?


Yes, they were mounted on stock perches. The Zeta levers (and the standard for that matter) have much less play and feel better (IMO).

If I do go with Yamaha switch gear is there any way to check whether the switch gear is the good quality or the lower quality?


Usually it's the cheaper, smaller capacity bikes like the wr125, xt125, ybr125 etc, that tend to use the poorer quality switch gear. It works fine on a road biased bike but the off road life may be too much for them!




 
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